Power strips for transformers

to Gilly, Susan, John and others. I think we can now put this to bed. When I redo the web site, I will recommend the Belkin or Triplite units. I do like the idea of adding the TVS4 also. Some people have a lot of money invested in equipment, and a security item like this just makes sense for those who are concerned.  Further, another lesson learned today. I was not terribly concerned that our transformer cords do not look "factory original". I think that is an unreasonable assumption, and will from here on out offer our customers the choice of a 3 prong or factory look alike cord and plug. It will be fun to watch what people actually buy. I promise to let you know later the results of offering the option.

One interesting example, we were going to originally include the option of our soldering wires on the bottom of tracks purchased for power hook ups. One solder job for each 10 pieces of track at no charge to the customer. When I mentioned this to a forum member he recommended no way, people would not want that. So we now list it as an option. Interesting fact, out of the several thousand pieces of track sold, only one customer requested not having his tracks soldered.

   The Polarized 2-prong plugs will look more professional for restorations and replacement polarized plugs can be easily rewired for phasing if needed.

Leviton example

• 101-EP

15 Amp, 125 Volt, NEMA 1-15P, 2P, 2W, Plug, Straight Blade, Residential Grade, Polarized, Non-Grounding - Black

 Reply is posted here Electrical Forum Technical FYI 120V 2 prong wall plug replacement

TinMan, not to tell you how to run your business, but as a consumer I would be floored when purchasing/refurbishing a ZW if I had these options from you (And reasonably priced accordingly):

Power Cord

• Factory L Reproduction, Non-Polarized
• Factory L Reproduction, Polarized
• Generic Non-Polarized
• Generic Polarized

Whistle Controller

• Original Style Copper Washer
• Upgraded Diode

Circuit Breaker

• Original Style Bi-Metal
• Upgraded Modern

TVS Protection

• Optionally Added, one for each bus

Lamps

• Original incandescent
• Soldered in LEDs - Warm White  (like your switch controllers)
• Bayonet LED's - Warm White

Lamp Jewls

• Original Translucent Style
• Original Opaque Style

Great idea, bmoran4. It reminds me of this...

A few comments on items in this post.

The polarized plugs insure the switch, that many devices have, will be on the hot narrow blade conductor for safety.  This not important for transformers without switches and bakelite insulated cases.

Phasing is important when using multiple transformers for multiple loops and multiple operators. Even though a ZW can control up to 4 loops or trains, it would get congested with 3 or four operators using one ZW. 

That is why I use 3 phased Lionel LWs at my two control panels (the larger one has an LW at each end).

Most power strips are plastic with metal ones selling for much more. 

Plastic ones can and should be made safe by the UL requiring the plastic to be fire proof by inclusion of a fire suppression water emitting filler such as aluminum trihydrate, which is cheaper than the plastic itself.  Such fillers are required in most plastics used in house construction.

The only sure way to prevent lighting damage is to unplug.  I use power strips to plug in multiple devices.  They all can be unplugged by only pulling one plug, that of the power strip.

I do religiously unplug my vintage stereo equipment (I had a receiver hit by lighting in the 1970s) but do not always unplug the train gear as the I feel my 50s gear lacks fragile modern electronics and is more robust.
 

Charlie

Those are some great suggestions! It looks like another company will no longer be servicing zw's and has requested we take over for them. I really like the option idea. Thanks. People sometime wonder about making suggestions like that. I for one really appreciate them. I have learned an incredible amount over the past year. A lions portion of what I learned came from you guys. Tough to argue with success.

Sue, you have convinced me. We will be offering these as an option. I don't know I just have not had a lot of luck with the polarized 2 prong plugs. Maybe because I did not buy good enough ones. I am going to order a couple of your suggested models. At the very least we will offer these as an alternative, and as promised next year bout this time, I will let all know how it turned out.

Ironically, despite the mention in the name of the device, the ground connection does not play a role in the functioning of a GFCI.

Correct of course, thanks Rob. 

Hello everyone once again. I have changed the language regarding power cables for transformers based on some fine advice from you guys. I really mean that guys, I do not pretend to have all the answers, if you don't believe me, ask my wife, she doesn't think I have yet learned how to drive! It is amazing that occasionally I do manage to get to point b without her being in the car.

One final question: I have been told previously by someone on the forum who I normally would trust their judgment implicitly, never ground anything on a layout to earth ground (or the odd plug on a 3 conductor power cord). If this is the case, then is there any benefit in a ground fault interrupter outlet or circuit breaker? Also would not the breaker trip if a car derailed and shorted across the center rail?

I am just about finished with the section regarding initial wiring which I included the Tripp-Lite (we specifically recommended the new Isobar 8 because it has a 12' power cord and a separate on/off switch that could be mounted anywhere)or an equivalent surge protector, not only UL approved, but UL tested.  I do not know if I should address the ground fault interrupter as a safety suggestion. What doth ya think?

I a train layout is in a damp, or possibly damp, location like a basement, the 120-volt outlet should be GFI.  If not, a GFI is as necessary as it is in any other room of the house (other than kitchen, outdoors, or bathroom where it is required).

It is difficult to conceive of any situation where a derailment or short on the layout would cause a breaker on the 120-volt side to trip, unless it caused the transformer to start burning.  There should already be a breaker in the house protecting the receptacle, 20 amp if 12 gauge wire or 15 amp if 14 gauge wire.  If a power strip has a breaker, it will normally be sized based on the external and internal 120-volt wiring of the strip.  I've seen 10-amp and a lesser size. 

Both a GFI and a low-amp breaker would be advisable if there are small hands that might be plugging or unplugging.

Point taken, Thank you gentlemen.