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Reading the comments on that link, it seems like the PS3 will work for G and O scales as well. He mentions another board that can be added to the PS2 which will add more features from the PS3 to the PS2, such as polarity sensing to eliminate the polarity switch, if I read it correctly. IT sounds all good. Target delivery 2014.

Old news but yes the upgrade kit board are targeted for O.  Frankly, I would have to review what they are doing for G since the have modified some PS-2 O boards to handle larger motor power requirements on some of the G.

 

I wouldn't hold my breath on this for 2014.  It does exist, but at what stage is unknown but at MTH.

 

Right now it is programmed as a PS-3 diesel board with a matting board that plugs in to the Diesel board.  You than plug in your PS-2 connectors to the matting board.  This allows all the normal PS-2 lights to work.  You do eliminate the battery.

 

So the only real gain in conversions is the PS-3 processor and memory.  At which point you need to hope the flash files for you model are available.  You can load PS-2 sound files in PS-3, but engine characteristics come from the flash program.

 

Price point will be interesting.  The PS-3 diesel board is $20 more than a PS-2 set alone.

 

The other issue, is component level repair on PS-3.  It won't be as easy.  If you damage it, you need another PS-3 diesel board at $220 MSRP.  At least PS-2 is $120 processor and $80 Power Supply so mistakes may not be as costly.

 

Looking forward to seeing it, but I think this is the "repair" Replacement first, upgrade second.  That would be my take.   G

I'm not seeing a real advantage to the PS/3 upgrade kit as described.  As GGG says, the boards are a bit more expensive, and there is the extra compatibility board to drive incandescent bulbs, that has to cost something as well.

 

Component repairs are going to be more difficult on the PS/3 boards, many more components are really very small pitch parts that require more sophisticated rework equipment to repair.

 

I'll be proceeding slowly on the PS/3 upgrade kits until they have some mileage on them.

 

I'd like to have an option to forget the incandescent interface board, as I would rather just use all LED's in an upgrade anyway.

 

Originally Posted by GGG:

Old news but yes the upgrade kit board are targeted for O.  Frankly, I would have to review what they are doing for G since the have modified some PS-2 O boards to handle larger motor power requirements on some of the G.

 

I wouldn't hold my breath on this for 2014.  It does exist, but at what stage is unknown but at MTH.

 

Right now it is programmed as a PS-3 diesel board with a matting board that plugs in to the Diesel board.  You than plug in your PS-2 connectors to the matting board.  This allows all the normal PS-2 lights to work.  You do eliminate the battery.

 

So the only real gain in conversions is the PS-3 processor and memory.  At which point you need to hope the flash files for you model are available.  You can load PS-2 sound files in PS-3, but engine characteristics come from the flash program.

 

Price point will be interesting.  The PS-3 diesel board is $20 more than a PS-2 set alone.

 

The other issue, is component level repair on PS-3.  It won't be as easy.  If you damage it, you need another PS-3 diesel board at $220 MSRP.  At least PS-2 is $120 processor and $80 Power Supply so mistakes may not be as costly.

 

Looking forward to seeing it, but I think this is the "repair" Replacement first, upgrade second.  That would be my take.   G

Well there's quite a bit more to the differences between PS2 + PS3 boards once you look past the 3 rail world. 

 

PS3 for the 2 rail world is exciting as there is no more rail polarity issues. 

PS3 can also be operated via DCC which means we can dump using DCS if we so desire.

Just having those 2 issues resolved is worth the extra $20.00 on my end.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Proto-3 Upgrade kits sounds like a winner, but I probably wouldn't upgrade my later PS2 engines -- maybe some early 5V units and a few Proto-1 units.
 
 
Originally Posted by BigBoy4014:

Please correct me if I am wrong, but I was under the impression that late PS2 locos with 32T can run on DC in 2R.

That is correct. The 3V PS2 boards support DC conventional and the Proto 3/2 models can operate on 2-rail DC just fine. Have done it a few times, but you don't get the horn/bell, just the basic engine sounds. DCS will also operate off a DC source (some argue it might actually perform better but I haven't tested it).

Last edited by AGHRMatt
Originally Posted by BigBoy4014:

Please correct me if I am wrong, but I was under the impression that late PS2 locos with 32T can run on DC in 2R.

Any PS-2 board will run off DC, but it can't determine which rail has the DCS signal, so polarity or orientation of the train matters.  Think G Scale.

 

The point about PS-3 is that you don't need the polarity switch it can sense the DCS signal on either input line. 

 

As far as running on 2 Rail AC or DC that requires an engine with isolated wheel sides.  G

Last edited by GGG

Last thursday 4/24 when Mike Wolf spoke he said the PS3 upgrade kits will be in stock sometime in June 

 

Both he & Andy E. stated last week that there's a new PS2/3 board being made that's a direct drop-in replacement...bad PS2 board? just swap it out with a new PS3 version. Sounds like the daughter lighting board idea is gone...or it's integrated into the new PS2/3 board. We get to see in a few months   

Last edited by CRH

I have Always run DCS locos with my 20A/12DC power supply as an input to the TIU. I never had an AC power source so I used the DC and never had any operational issues.

 

Sam E. 

 12VDC isn't much power..you may want to kick that up to at least 16VDC...I myself use 24VDC...30VDC if the engines need a little more speed...around 35VDC a PS2 engine will start operating kinda flaky 

Last edited by CRH
Yes, I know. You are correct. But I did not have any 24DC source at the time and then I ended up getting an MTH Z4000 which I used when I had my layout. I will use it in my next layout too.
 
Originally Posted by CRH:

I have Always run DCS locos with my 20A/12DC power supply as an input to the TIU. I never had an AC power source so I used the DC and never had any operational issues.

 

Sam E. 

 12VDC isn't much power..you may want to kick that up to at least 16VDC...I myself use 24VDC...30VDC if the engines need a little more speed...around 35VDC a PS2 engine will start operating kinda flaky 

 

Originally Posted by CRH:

I have Always run DCS locos with my 20A/12DC power supply as an input to the TIU. I never had an AC power source so I used the DC and never had any operational issues.

 

Sam E. 

 12VDC isn't much power..you may want to kick that up to at least 16VDC...I myself use 24VDC...30VDC if the engines need a little more speed...around 35VDC a PS2 engine will start operating kinda flaky 

This is bad advice IMO!  The maximum rated voltage for the TIU is 22 volts.  In addition, there is a 33V TVS on every channel, so AC voltages in excess of 22 volts will be clamped by the TVS and result in a short or open in the TVS, and possible damage to the channel of the TIU.  Remember, the peak voltage from 22 VAC is 30.8 volts.  Even though you're running DC, I can't imagine needing 30 volts for proper operation!

 

 

 

Originally Posted by gunrunnerjohn:
Originally Posted by CRH:

I have Always run DCS locos with my 20A/12DC power supply as an input to the TIU. I never had an AC power source so I used the DC and never had any operational issues.

 

Sam E. 

 12VDC isn't much power..you may want to kick that up to at least 16VDC...I myself use 24VDC...30VDC if the engines need a little more speed...around 35VDC a PS2 engine will start operating kinda flaky 

This is bad advice IMO!  The maximum rated voltage for the TIU is 22 volts.  In addition, there is a 33V TVS on every channel, so AC voltages in excess of 22 volts will be clamped by the TVS and result in a short or open in the TVS, and possible damage to the channel of the TIU.  Remember, the peak voltage from 22 VAC is 30.8 volts.  Even though you're running DC, I can't imagine needing 30 volts for proper operation!

 

 

 

Sorry but WE were talking about DC power not your silly theories about AC power. Running 30 volts DC thru a TIU isn't going to hurt a thing as several others & myself have been operating DCS this way for over 7 years now. You just have to watch the amperage going in as my power supplies can punch out 25 amps. 30VDC isn't going to bother your precious TVS's either.

 

Better yet wire the TIU in passive mode and then there's not a thing to worry about.

 

I run large scale and plenty of manufacturers loco's need 24-30V to get up to mainline speeds of say 80-100 smph. 

 

I often wonder why the o gauge crowd bothers with AC power when operating in the DCS/TMCC Command environment esp. when DCS propagates it's signal so much better using DC power? We have & do only need 1 set of track feeders for up to 1'400 of brass track...AC guys drop feeder every what?? 10 feet? 

 

Even MTH specifies to use DC power when you're having a problem loading a soundfile.

 

All can motors these days are being feed DC power...AC power went out with Pullmore motors & PS1.

Last edited by CRH

I agree with John on the AC.  I see many bad 5V boards and will be very happy when we can just swap in the ps3 board set and be done with the older electronics.  I know a bit of the new boards and when the information is released to the public, I feel it will be very welcomed.  I still run a very large number of 5V boards and have changed many for the retro 3V to 5V system. 

 

Many of the 5V locomotives are very appealing and I do not want to dump them.  The boards are getting very tired. 

Last edited by Marty Fitzhenry
Originally Posted by c.sam:
Originally Posted by Enginear-Joe:

these are running on DC under DCS control. I used to run them on AC.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PrEqR0k8c5o&list=UUibxZM9pcZwOpkZrcdHggpg

 

 

 

Are you 'unifrax5' Joe?

That's a really nice job done on that Triplex!

Sorry Sam. Don't know how I missed this post. Thank you. That Triplex is still giving me a run for the money. I had it all working and then it decided to short (or overdraw) again. When I get a chance (and more patience), I'll go back at it! I believe it was an overlooked dangling wire from a power pick-up that was removed.

 I was thinking of fusing everything to isolate problems and help narrow down what's going on when things go south. She is a monster and needs r-e-s-p-e-c-t. I wonder what just one can pull?

It's at least two steam engines in one. I may have to upgrade the power traces even higher.

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