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I am looking at a std gauge Loco from 2011. It has PS2. I am brand new to MTH system so I have a few questions.

 

1. As I understand it the PS2 requires a battery on board to work. Is that correct?

2. Can it be run in conventional mode without a battery?

3. The sound may by marginally better on the PS3

4. 3 volt boards are preferred,

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1. Yes it needs a battery. Battery type depends on system used.

2. Not sure but you wouldn't want to. Easy to keep the battery charged and easy to replace when needed.

3. Opinions vary and depends on the engine. My opinion is much better sound on my PS3s but I like the sound on my PS2s just fine.

4. Not sure but seems like that is preferred for reliability and ease of repair. There are others on the forum that can give better answers to that one.

Last edited by Former Member

MikeMike,

   After acquiring your P2 Engine I recommend replacing the required Battery with a BCR, the P3 engines have the BCR built right into the P3 Engines.   Mike you definitely need to purchase Barry's DCS O Gauge Companion book and invest in the OGR Video Guide to DCS, now that you are investing in the DCS, these 2 educational formats will save you a lot of frustration as you build your DCS layout.

 

PCRR/Dave

Last edited by Pine Creek Railroad

If you are new to MTH PS2 perhaps it's obvious but the rechargeable battery comes with the engine so you don't have to buy it separately.  Since you're talking 2011, it is very likely the battery is still in good shape. The PS2 electronics in the engine has a charger that will fully charge the battery overnight sitting on a powered track.  Or you can buy a wall-powered external charger that plugs into the engine.  If the battery happens to be low from sitting on the shelf for a long time, you can start running conventional after, say, 30 minutes of charging (your mileage may vary) by leaving the engine sitting on a powered track.

 

If you're looking at a 2011 engine, it will have the so-called 3V version of PS2 (the other being the earlier and obsolete 5V version). 

 

If you're pondering whether to hold out for a PS3 version, then it's a question of reading tea leaves on if/when that might occur for whatever engine and roadname you're looking at.  Search the archives and there have been many threads comparing PS2 to PS3 wrt sound quality, operational features, etc.  One thing I've noticed is with each change from PS1 to PS2-5V to PS2-3V, there is a backshop industry of converting earlier PS versions to the current one.  So if you pony up now for a PS2 std gauge engine and subsequently find some PS3 feature that you absolutely positively can't live without, I'll venture to say you will be a way to make the conversion from PS2-3V to PS3.  It may not be easy or cheap but when there's a will there's a way...

Very true.  But PCRR/Dave has a good point about replacing the rechargeable battery pack with a battery-replacement (BCR) which you can make yourself (about $5 in parts) or buy assembled (about $20).  These devices charge up on a per-operating-session basis.  After about a minute of charging on a powered track you can start running conventional operations.

 

So if new to MTH engines, and only dealing with one or just a few PS2 engines and looking down the road to battery-less PS3 engines, he might be able to get through life without a charger (about $15) and battery maintenance issues altogether. 

  I will be running MTH DCS. But I want to run conventionally sometimes. It brings me back to a happy place. I was just hesitant with the need for a battery to operate. Just don't like that idea. Batteries fail allot. (Just my experience is from flying R/C aircraft for 40 years) 

 

The engine I was considering is a #7 from 2011.   I was wondering if I should wait for a ps3 version. It looks like the perfect engine for my inner loop and just looks cheery.  I sure see a lot of them on dealers websites. My thought was that they must not be to popular so a remake in PS3 may not occur for awhile or ever. Hope this won't be a mistake. Just don't like the idea of batteries being required to operate. I have no idea if it contains a 3 or 5 volt board. 

 

Barry I did purchased your book awhile back and just received it. When I get to wiring I understand twisted wire is in order and a star pattern rather than a buss system. So far it looks like more wiring than I am used to but the layout is small so it shouldn't be to much extra work. 

 

My other question was do I need a windows computer to update whatever? But I suppose thats in the book to. It looks fairly detailed. . Thanks everyone.

 

 

 

 

Mike,

 

Thanks for purchasing my book!  

The engine I was considering is a #7 from 2011.   I was wondering if I should wait for a ps3 version. It looks like the perfect engine for my inner loop and just looks cheery.

I'm not understanding what engine you're discussing, however, whatever engine you eventually decide to purchase should be whatever you like. It's your opinion that matters. You won't go wrong no matter what PS2 or PS3 engine you decide to purchase.

When I get to wiring I understand twisted wire is in order and a star pattern rather than a buss system. So far it looks like more wiring than I am used to but the layout is small so it shouldn't be to much extra work. 

It's really not much more work to wire using the star method than a buss scheme. Either way, you need to create isolated track blocks. Just follow the book's recommendations and you won't go wrong.

do I need a windows computer to update whatever? But I suppose thats in the book to

Yes, you do. It's all explained in the book, in great detail.

Mike,

 

I have an Atlas GP9 I installed PS2 in back around 2006.  The PS2 guts came from a Railking F3 I won off E-Bay (not sure how old the F3 was, it was a Harley Davidson F3).  This is my oldest PS2 system and I have yet to replace the battery.  I have 4 steamers with PS2 and another diesel with PS2, original batteries in them also.  From what I've read, these batteries don't leak (can someone confirm this?).

 

I would not worry about the batteries in PS2 engines, I don't think things get scrambled like they do in the old PS1 engines.

 

I may be pushing my luck on these batteries, but hey, someone has to put it to the test

Originally Posted by mikemike:

 

The engine I was considering is a #7 from 2011.   I was wondering if I should wait for a ps3 version.

 

No, you should not wait.  The likelihood of seeing those fairly recent tinplate locomotive releases offered in the near future in PS3 is probably quite slim.  If you do decide to wait, it's best to be prepared for a long wait.

Last edited by Allan Miller

Gentlemen,

   I agree with Allan, if you like one of the Tin Plate P2 Engines or sets, purchase them as soon as possible, I truly doubt you will see a P3 version produced any time in the near future.  I will also tell you this, IMO my 263E Tin Plate is one of the best MTH engines I own, if you happen to see one, in the color you most like, grab it. You probably will not see a P3 version for quite some time, if ever.

PCRR/Dave

Last edited by Pine Creek Railroad
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