Hello chipset.........

 

No the worm gear looks like it was pressed on the shaft off center and the mounting screw for the motor and truck assembly is too short.  If you can put it back in the box and send it back for exchange or warranty repair. I know this because I just did major overhaul on my #18117 F-3 set and this looks worse than mine did.  Is the armatures turn easy or binds ?,as you can tell by turning it by thumb and if it does bind then best to send it back for exchange.  Once it fixed RIGHT, it will be a good smooth runner.

 

the woman who loves the S.F.5011,2678,2003,200

Tiffany

 

If you just look at the truck block, the motor and worm are designed to be off center. If you include the spur gears in the width, then it is centered.

 

It looks like the problem is a motor mount screw that is either too short, or that was not installed properly. When the screw comes out, the motor truck assembly falls apart.

 

 

Hello C W Burfle..........

 

The postwar version started 1955 (up-right motors) and to about early late MPC the worm gear was brass and pressed on the shaft. Mine LTI era (1993) F-3's came with white nylon worm gear just like Chipset's F-3 but this one is off center and wont run right like that. I replaced all the plastic gears with the postwar metal ones and after 4 hours run time my F-3 really ran smooth. Those metal gears are just like the postwar F-3's.   Even the Chinese cannot assembled it right SIGH.

 

the woman who loves the S.F.5011,2678,2003,200

Tiffany

Thanks.

I deleted my post when I realized that you were writing about the worm gear on the idler shaft in the truck. I had my signals crossed.

 

A number of locomotives use that power block. I have run into several engines that had a problem with the worm gear rubbing against the sides of the slot, creating a bind.

 

I believe that Modern era Lionel did use a metal gear in that location at one time. I have no idea when they switched.

The small screw holds the side frame to the trucks. The thing you saw fall probably was the motor mount screw.

 

Bill

The armature turns nicely.

I will try and find that other screw.

I cannot exchange it, as I bought it 2 years ago and ran it every so often.

I cannot just reassemble? 

Hello Chipset.......

 

Perhaps the longer screw fell on to floor.  Can you locate the screw if so you can just add some plastic safe grease on the worm gear and reassemble it. Let us know how it runs.  You are lucky to have armatures that is not bend.

 

then woman who loves the S.F.5011,2678,2003,200

The screw may have simply come loose, it happens.  You should be able to find a correct length screw to reinstall the truck.

 

FYI, Lionel makes a brass set of replacement gears to replace the plastic gears.

chipset,

Considering your recent luck, I got something entirely different out of your pictures.

 

"....using existing data to predict future trends"

 

Dave

chipset,

I may be wrong, but possibly the other screw, a ball bearing, or a flat retaining washer fell?!

Ralph

I found the screw and put it all back together.

Will test run it this weekend.

Also noticed the other truck and motor with this same screw was loose as well!

So I tightened it up or that truck would have fallen off too.

BIG question...why does all the factory grease look like vasoline?

Should it not be white (Labelle(?) or red (MTH).

Thanks again for all your help.

My Labelle 106 grease is clear, and looks like Vaseline.

Ah ok cool.

Chip, 

 

You may want to add some thread tape to the screws to keep them from backing out so quickly. Don't you glue or you will have major trouble getting the screws out again.

 

Lee Fritz

Good idea Lee, it sure is working fine, and just in time for its new B-Unit w/ SuperBass and FatBoy speakers to arrive!

Use blue (medium hold) Loc-Tite on the screw threads and let it sit overnight. You'll still be able to remove the screws if necessary. Teflon tape can shred and get into places you don't want it.

 

 

Ramming speed.  Never a dull moment.  You seem to be having fun.  Rock on.

 

100% agree with Len on the blue Loctite.  I think it's 242 or 243.

I second the medium (blue) Loc-Tite.  It will hold the screw in tight (works great on stripped out plastic holes) but if needed you can still remove the screw.  Don't use the high strength (red) ever on something you might need to take apart someday.  The Red is Permanently locked in place,  you will destroy a screw head trying to get one out!

I use Loc-Tite Purple.

 

LOCTITE® Low Strength (small thread) Purple Threadlockers

I also use the purple Loctite, sometimes the blue is too much on small screws.  I suspect it would be OK on this motor screw...

 

Just to clarify, when my shop was open I used blue Loc-Tite on #6 and larger screws, purple on #4 and smaller. Vertical Pul-Mor motor screws are generally #6 x 15/32.

 

 

I find it interesting that so many folks use Loctite on trains. I have some on hand, my older son's R/C model planes used to call for its use. I don't think I've ever used it on trains.

I've asked on other posts & got no response, but I'll try again. What metal gears can be used to replace plastic ones on MPC & LTI locos??? Anyone have solid information or part #'s? I'd be verrrry interested in this to solve my gear cracking problems.

I think you would get an answer if you asked about specific locomotives. Lionel used more than one worm gear.

For example, the worm gear on many 027 Alcos and switchers was a 8010-115, which was plastic. The Train Tender carries #8010-115M which is a brass replacement.

 

I use the purple all the time on the rod screws on steamers.  That stems from my Legacy T1-Duplex doing a pole vault on a driving rod when the screw worked it's way out.  It's easy to get the screws out if you need to, but I've had no more incidents of rods coming loose when I don't want them to.

 

 

Many times when engines come in for repair, one of the complaints is engine jerking. This is usually cause by a loose eccentric crank hitting the body. I find alot of loose motors even on Williams.

 

Bill 

I could only find the Loctite Blue for screws.

Purple was only available as a super glue.

Blue is fine for those screws.

 

Either will work.  Always worth periodic checking of engines that you run a lot.  G

So there is no reason to hunt down the purple?

I do have red and blue in the shop.

Blue works fine for the larger screws.  I prefer the purple on stuff like rod screws or other really small screws as it provides the right "grip" but is pretty easy to remove.

Unless you enjoy drilling out screws, DO NOT use the red Loc-Tite on you loco screws.

 

Blue's fine. If you use it on smaller screws, make sure the Philips heads are in good shape, and excentric screws aren't bent. Use a paper towel to remove excess from the threads, you only need a thin coat on small screws.

 

 

Small dab of clear nail polish on the threads works well - I was told to do that when I had a screw keep backing out of one of the arms of my glasses - works well for trains as well.  Use a toothpick to apply if the screw is small - the brush in the nail polish is pretty big.

Ive used some on side rod screws that turn in such a way as to unscrew themselves.

I love tread locking compounds. I don't use red on anything that I cant heat up or use lots of torque on to remove. Heat softens most of these compounds. Using a locking compound a bit too strong for a smaller size fastener, I'll only "glue" the retaining head seat, or top few threads of the screw/bolt only. A dot of paint or compound  around an already seated head and its mated surface, works fairly well also.

 

Im also a fan of lock washers on everything. It applies more to large automotive fasteners. Americans normally use the split style, and the wave washer used in Europe is the best by far. Especially on bolt heads with flat sides for wrenches. It is similar to a spring washer, but normally a different slightly softer alloy than spring steel. Split washers..well they separate at the split, widening and failing leaving loose fasteners. Thinner, harder, wave washers are complete circles and seldom fail. My dune buggy insists on them and/or thread-lock. Don't get me started on star washers, or the other crud, unless its a beveled-countersunk head, Id prefer a plain, slightly bent, washer over them 90% of the time. Foreign auto supply shops are where I find my wave washers. 

When were these units produced?

hello guys and gals.........

 

I used 2 socket head machine screws for the power trucks and motor attachment and 1 for the E-unit of my Lionel F-3# 18117. The socket head screws are better than the screws that came with the F-3's they stay tighter and don't come loose. Not have to worry about chewing up the head screws.

 

the woman who loves the S.F.5011,2678,2003,200

Tiffany