Question about Gargraves track

Lightly tapping each rail using a small block of wood and a hammer closes them right up.

The pins have a flared middle. This prevents them from sliding inside the rail. Some people file the flare down a bit and then use the above tap the ends method. 

Also, GG track bends ever so slightly at the ends due to the cut-off machine in manufacturing. This causes a slight dip at the joint. Some people cut off ends of the track. I put a shim/tongue depressor under the joint with screws on each side to level it off.

None of this is perfect and you still will have your clickity clack. 

Whatever you do, don't get rid of the clickity clack

As mentioned, very easy to drive the individual rails up snug with a wooden block and small hammer.

I just bought GarGraves for the first time last year for my Ceiling Central RR.  Right away I noticed this problem, but didn't get the track fastened tight to the roadbed yet.  Thanks c.sam for asking the question, and all for answering.

Hold the cut end against the flat side of a rotary grinder. Be quick.

a) Never start or stop a curve at a rail joint.

b) Curve the track in place.

c) When you have about six to eight inches left while bending in place use a right triangle to cut the three rails square using a Dremel cut off wheel.  Install the next section of track and continue bending.

d) Attach track to road bed as you go along making the bends on the centerline you DREW on the road bed/table for the intended curve.  I used every fourth to sixth tie and alternated sides of the third rail.  I also pre-drilled the screw holes to prevent splitting.

All good advice.  The tapping at the end rail has always worked for me.

Ditto on the wood block and hammer.  To clarify what Chuck said, on a long curve, it isn't possible to "Never start or stop a curve at a rail joint."  He actually explains how to do it in his post step c).

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Dennis

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Dennis

If you sketch out the centerline of the curve and only "bend" the center rail the track will not kink.  You don't force alignment, you work back and forth along the section.  You're "easing" the track into shape and only "fixing" the track into place when the centerline of the track matches the drawn curve.

Been easing the curve joints in with a block against the tie ends on at least 1K' of flex over the last 20 years. The key is to leave the screws out of the "trailing" joint about 7-8 ties back from the joint while advancing and fastening the 37" section on toward the "leading" joint.

Then return to the trailing joint and ease the joint in with a block against the tie ends to align center rail with arc centerline and fasten with screws on the second tie[s] back each side of the joint. Perfect curve joint every time.

Do not try to bend and align 12-13" and shorter sections in a curve. Cut the last two sections up into 1/2 of 37+12 or two sections 24+. You can bend/align the shorter pieces but it takes too many screws to maintain it. I like to remove screws after ballasting.

Dewey, Chuck, and I have often answered these threads and discovered we all do it the same, that is, bend it in place screwing it down as you go.  You continually keep straightening the ties as you go, and deal with the joints as described above by Dewey.  I believe Jim Barrett does it this way too.

I have written a Gargraves track laying primer with photos and could email it to you if you want it.

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Dennis

Dennis, thanks for the offer regarding the primer. It would be a real service for O-gaugers if you could do that. I do not have the talent nor capability to do it.

Use track pins designed for American Flyer S Gauge tinplate track. They fit snugly. You can also use the insulated pins for Flyer track for Gargraves as well.

Gargraves is good track and is a good electrical conductor, and has the insulated rail actually built in. The biggest problem, A WORD OF CAUTION, is causing an unwanted kink

by making curves. Therefore, I purchased the factory curves, 096, 0120, 0108...I used Atlas-O 072--081---091---099 on the rest of the curves...

The small bullock of wood, tap of the Hammer works well IF the track in front is attached. Enjoy Your Trains.

Thanks guy's for this thread, very helpful in getting that space out of there.

Tin 

Yes,  I agree with Tim above. Very helpful information.

Thanks, guys.

Dennis, I am thinking about gar graves for my next layout. I have emailed to see if you would  be kind enough to send me your primer.  I really like the Ross yard switches and crossovers and want to use them in the layout as well,

Mark

We used the pre-bent sectional curves from Gargraves, except where we needed a custom curve. Even those sectional curves were tapped together with a block and hammer. Just have to make sure the previous sections are secured so that the gap will close while tapping on it, otherwise the track just moves back and out of place.

There are still a few gaps here and there, as the weather changes and the track shrinks and expands, it doesn't hurt to have a few gaps to prevent kinks. 

Just how tight do you make them? What about the joints with insulated pins for power blocking? What do you do to keep the center rail ends from touching?

Bruce, I cut a gap in the rail with my Dremmel Tool.