Questions about the unknown

Look into Bambu. It was recommended to us by a friend who is heavy into printing gaming figures and scenes. My 12 year old watched all kinds of youtube videos too on it and set it up pretty much by himself.  I recommend looking into a local group or someone to mentor you to get started.   BTW a title like "3D printer questions" might garner more replies...tho i admit to being intrigued by "questions about the unknown".

RE: Finally, when I say "o" scale, what is the actual size 1:48?

In North America, it is 1:48 aka 1/4" to the foot. That keeps it nice and simple.

It varies elsewhere from 1:42 in the UK (they call it 7mm and 7mm to the foot equals 1:42) to 1:43.5 attributed to UK (notwithstanding the 7mm mentioned before) and France (and the source of HO being 1:87) to 1:45.2 for most of the rest of Europe which is the correct proportion to keep both the track and the rolling stock accurate to the same scale.  (At 1:48, our 1=1/4" gauge O track scales out to 5' prototype gauge rather than the actual 4' 8-1/2".)

I bought the Creality K1C, it's an enclosed printer, and it's been great!  I've also heard good things about the Bambu printers as well.  I recommend you DON'T start with a multi-color printer, that greatly complicates things for a beginner.  A quick search turns up the Creality K1C for $450 on the MatterHackers site on sale, I've been super happy with my K1C.

My question to John is, do you buy the slicer program separate from the printer or does Creality supply the slicer program with the printer? If you buy this program what does it cost (ball park)? I have access the a cad cam program at work that can generate STL files for the print so I am covered there.

Here's a heads up on the Bambu printers.  They are going to a closed system which is contrary to the openness that has been typical of the 3D printing community.  You can find out more on the subject by searching the internet,

Temperature is a critical parameter with both FDM and resin printing.  Printing in a cold garage is not advised.  Enclosed printers are less sensitive.  Also, enclosed printers are quieter.  Some filaments (and most resins) give off noxious fumes which should be ventilated.  (a plus for a garage).  PLA is probably the most common filament for hobbyists and is safe.

There are two basic types of FBM printers, "bed slinger" and core-XY (Bambu), with the former being the most common and cheaper.  There is movement to the core-XY with most manufacturers now offering them.  With competition the price is dropping.  The lowest price I've seen is $200 but availability is limited.

One thing I recommend that you look for a printer that automates the setup functions so that it "prints right out of the box."

There are internet sites where you can freely download for personal use models to print (including OGR),  You will need a slicer a program which should come with your printer.  Most are meant for Windows.  You can find tutorials on YouTube.  To make your own models you'll need to use a CAD program.  You don't need to be a draftsperson as there are simple, browser-based programs like TinyCAD and Onshape.

Personally, I am partial to the Elegoo printers.  I have both FDM and SLA resin printers.  Their latest printer just introduced yesterday is a core-XY printer and is the one I referred to above.

Happy printing!

Jan

3D printing.

Unheated garage.   Some can, but changes in drafts, room temps and humidity can have an effect on the result.    I prefere a stable environment to keep it simple.   As a beginner, you need to watch for "blobs" etc.  Will you keep an eye on it in the garage?

Closed/Open doesn't matter that much if using PLA or PETG.   If you want to run ASA, ABS, Nylon or other high temp filaments, a closed environment is recommended.

What is low cost?   Too cheap or too old of a system may drive you nuts.   A beginner needs a good tool, not a finger-ger-poken type tool. 

There are run-n-forget 3D printers, but they are at the professional level and start arounnd $20,000.   The hobby level, under $2500, still needs to have someone keep an eye on them from time to time.   Ready to run, vs. Kits is recommended for a beginner. 

Prusa makes a good printer, but a little pricey for some.    There may be used Prusa MK4 or MK4S printers in your area soon with many thousands of usefull hours on them still.  Prusa has come out with a new printer and some will want to sell their now "old" MK4 or MK4S printer.    I do not recommend the MK3 or earlier models without auto-bed leveling.  Too much finger-ger-poken for new users.

You will need a decent computer to run the slicer.    I would recommend 8 gig of memory or more.    Slicers should be able to scale models up or down.   I have converted many thrings from other scales in the slicer.   PrusaSlicer is free and that is what I use.

Not every model will print well.   A model well designed for the nuances of 3D printing will print well.    If you rely on others for models, your choices may be limited.   CAD package for making models.  Do you already know CAD?  Then good.  If not, that is another learning curve.

I would allocate 100 hours to reading about the basics.   Learning how to use a slicer and figuring out how to setup your printer.    Then you learn as you go.    Yes many get them up and running in an hour or two.   I do, but I have 40 years of CAD and manufacturing experience. 

About  ... Allow some growth...     ... nothing more....   If it works, there will be a lot more. 

thank you one and all for the information--I'm sure more questions to follow   Greg