Recomendations needed.............

What? Nobody has tackled this. I know there are people out there that have built bedroom sized layouts.

Well I'm pretty new to the hobby myself Ken but I do have a tiny office/man cave that is probably smaller than the room you have. I started by locating a website that shows different 3 x 5 layouts for different track types and settled on an Atlas track layout that I modified to 4 x 5. Then I built a train table strong enough to withstand a bomb blast. Not conventional but I really like it. It may be that 4 x 5 would give you the lattitude to move around the room. I am expanding the layout but it will have to be around the room perimeter as there is not much room for the table to grow. The table is so solid though that it is easy to extend from it toward the walls. First expansion will be to run track thru the book shelf on the west wall.

 

Here is the small layout link: http://www.thortrains.net/marx/35o31a.html

I also added switches here and there to the layout I chose and still have plenty of room for structures and people. Plus, small as it is I love running and working on it although I do envy the guys with the big room layouts.

 

Also get SCARM software. Free, really easy to use and will add a lot more possibilities to your project.

 

Scott

I would try to build in modules. Try to work out the dimensions for front and back and track placement. Try to finish the back module and then do the front or sides.

DoubleDAZ,

Woe, I love it! The good thing is I have enough RMT/K-Line track to create the outer loop now and it is 031 diameter curves. I would have to give up running 2 trains at once ( I currently use 027 ) but the possibilities for accessories and scenery make it worth it AND I like the narrower table surfaces! Thank you so much! May I ask what software you used to create it? Is it possible to email me the file as well as the file in a printable format?

Thanks again! You have given me hope!

Ken

I use RR-Track 5.0 for design work, but I'm sure you or someone could convert the layout for use with the free SCARM software. If you have RR-Track, I can post the .rrt file for you to download, but I suspect you don't have that software. It does have a K-Line SuperSnap library, so if you give me a little time, I could convert it to make sure it still works with that track. Then I could send you a track list and a jpg of just the layout for you to print. I could also add some dimensions to plan if that would help.

 

 

Dave,

 

That would be great. 

 

Thank you very much once again!

 

Ken

Okay, Ken, I hope this stuff helps. I had the time, so I created a 2nd option that you might like simply because that back part of the layout gets raised. I used a 4" height that results in 2 grades just over 3%. This can be lowered to 2" to reduce the incline percentage.

 

Also, you can still operate 2 trains, but you'd have to add blocks for the inner section. Theoretically, you could have a train sitting in there while you passed it on the mainline. Or, depending on how you wire it, you could have one train running the mainline while another is moving cars between the 2 spurs on the inner section. The Blue track is flat, the cyan are the grades and the green is up 4".

 

I also squared off the benchwork. I figured you could adjust that part to your liking as you build. I needed to use several smaller track sections to make everything fit and make sure there is enough distance between the tracks at the top. So, you might want to play around with just the larger sections before you purchase the smaller ones.

 

 

 

Ken,

 

Dave's plan looks good.  As Don said, I would consider creating a layout like this in modules, a left, right, and center filler section.

 

For our club, I built something like this that we can carry in a small SUV. 

 

For you, the left would be 36" x 78" the right would be 36" x 84" and the center would be 45" by 24", all easy to handle, bring into the room, etc.

 

For our modules I used a frame that was 2 1/2" high 3/4" pine with a 1/4" top surface.  Each module (ours are 30" x 60") weighs very little, and fits easily thru doors, etc.

 

You could do 2 x 3 legs or use two 6' folding banquet tables one on the left and one on the right.  The center would be suspended between the two - no legs required.  We use 1/4-20 bolts to hold the modules together.

 

 

 

Wish you were closer, I'd be happy to build the modules!

 

Here's a picture of the layout - 2 more modules being built as we speak.  There are 6 separate pieces that make op the 5' x 10' layout.

 

Ed

Great idea Eddie. However, if that's the case, might I suggest changing the benchwork slightly to allow all modules to be separated on straight tracks. I'd widen the top to 30" and create 4 modules as shown:

Left module would be 3'x4'

Right would be 3' x 4"5"

Top left would be 2' 6" x 4' 10.5"

Top right would also be 2' 6" x 4' 10.5"

 

 

Hay Guys,

 

I'm back online, albeit in a limited manner.

 

First, here are a couple of variations on a layout I came up a few months ago. These designs were created for a bigger room and are here for inspiration.

  

 

 

I'd like to focus on your wants and needs for the layout. You said you were wheelchair bound with limited ability to walk. Does the layout need to be wheelchair accessible or have ample seating area?

 

You also stated you wanted to have 2 trains running at the same time. Do the two mainlines need to be inter-connected? Do you want the trains to run continuously or do you want some switching possibility?

 

What accessories do you plan to place on your layout? What do you have in mind as far as scenery? Will you be building a false front city in the 2" you talked about?

Dave,

 

Good idea.  On our modular, each module joins to the next with 5" Fastrack sections.  Joining on a straight is best.  The bolts to join the modules would basically be under the track where it crosses a seam.

 

Your tables make all the modules  less than 3' x 5'

 

Ed

 

I took the dimensions you gave and created a basic U shape. Dave's idea for using a smaller width will work much better than the 4' x 8' table.

 

 

Have you considered using both O-27 and O-31 track or do you want to stick to one type of track?

My RR-Track library for K-Line Super Snap track doesn't have O27 curves, so I wasn't sure exactly what brand of O27 tracks are being used. Here's a different version with Atlas O27 inside and K-Line Super Snap outside to be able to run 2 trains. Tolerances are tight, but I didn't take the time to alter the benchwork. I don't have any experience with either track, so I don't know if the loops are too close, I just wanted to offer something different. The outer layout could always be flat and the inner raised to provide clearance.

 

 

Man you guys are rolling now. Man do I appreciate it it. Living out here in he Northwest doesn't afford one too many options for going someplace to have one on one discussions about this stuff. Let me address some of the question that have been asked.

 

From Stewart (ChessieFan72):

I'd like to focus on your wants and needs for the layout. You said you were wheelchair bound with limited ability to walk. Does the layout need to be wheelchair accessible or have ample seating area? Now that I think about it, it does not really need to be wheelchair accessible do to not having get around to the other side and every thing will be within a short are reach. It will have to be at proper viewing height when sitting in a chair and not at standing height. Great question, thank you!

 

You also stated you wanted to have 2 trains running at the same time. Do the two mainlines need to be inter-connected? Do you want the trains to run continuously or do you want some switching possibility? I only mentioned that because that is what I have/had now.Just 2 loops of 027 track going in a circle. Which as you know gets real boring real fast. I added a 3rd line which is elevated and is the K-Line Shadow Snap track made by RMT. This was stricktly for the Granddaughter's entertainment. I would be perfectly content with using the above style layout broken into blocks. I can also add an elevated line if I want additional continuous action.

 

What accessories do you plan to place on your layout? What do you have in mind as far as scenery? Will you be building a false front city in the 2" you talked about? Another good question! Currently I have the Bethlehem Steel Culvert loader and unloader, a MTH operating Warehouse, an airplane pylon, and a Gantry Crane that I have added the drive project that was in one of the magazines awhile back. It operates on a section of Gargraves track. I also have a Gabe the lamp lighter that I wire up to a button on the front fasciafor Lilly to play with. The airplane is also turned on by a pushbutton for her. I want to get one of the Lionelville Pipe Loaders because of the action for her as well. The 2" was a typo. I meant to type 2 feet meaning doing the back 2 feet and then the front 2 feet on a 4X8 cut in half length wise.

 

As far as mixing the 2 track types together I do not really like the 2 2 different rail heights being with close proximity of each other. I like the looks of the 027 when balasted and the rail height. I am hoping the higher rail height of the shadow rail will look as good when complete.

 

 

OK.....so today we signed all the paperwork for the house. I have the quote for the bench work from everyone favorite supplier, Mianne for the layout about. Will place the order soon and away we go! Several timely posts here on the forum including best plywood and sound deadening material.

Congrats on the house.

 

If you're still looking considering a variation of my designs, I made a few changes after I saw how many accessories you have. I also move one of the spurs to the inside for easier access.

 

 

Dave,

Going back to layout #2, can you play with the plan a bit using all K Line Snap track and see if you can pull the front main line and the siding between the 2 side loops enough to be able to put the culvert loader and unloader on the siding in front of the elevated back track? Maybe add another few inches to that back section if need be.

Thanks,
Ken

Just to clarify, I meant add a few inches to the front of the bench depth if it will help.

Thanks again,
Ken

I hope I picked the right layout. Is this what you mean?

 

 

Dave.....That's perfect. That's what we will build. Can you do me one more favor? Add each group of short tracks up and give me a total length for each group. I am going to have to custom cut them ut of a long section of track. Can you also color code each one on the track plan.

 

Thanks for all your help. Looking forward to showing pictures of your creation!

 

Ken

Ok, see if this meets your needs. I would caution you to lay out ALL your standard sized track around your benchwork in their assigned locations first. Then begin assembly with ALL the standard pieces for the left loop section. Once that is done, you can A determine the exact length you want for section "A". Even though it says 23", you might find that 22" or 24" works better for positioning the loop and the straight track along the top. Don't worry about deviating from what I've got. Since you'll be custom cutting pieces for the main straight sections, they'll all key off one another.

 

For example:

 

"A" determines how close the left loop will be to the bottom edge of the benchwork. It also determines how close the top straight section will be to the back wall. Therefore, you should cut it to size based on where you want that loop to be on that leg of the horseshoe, not specifically to what my measurement came out to be.

 

"B" determines where the right loop will be positioned with regard to the wall on the right.

 

"C" determines where the right loop will be positioned with regard to the edge of the benchwork.

 

"D" determines how close the inner siding will be to the back track.

 

"E" determines the position of the outer siding at the horseshoe.

 

"F" determines how the left side of the horseshoe will line up with the right. The tracks attached to "F" have to go straight across to "G".

 

"G" finishes that section.

 

"H" determines how the left side of the inner siding will line up with the right. The tracks attached to "H" have to go straight across to "J".

 

"J" finishes that section.

 

If you followed all that, you'll see that my measurements are just a guide and you'll have to make your own measurements as you assemble things. This is exactly the approach to assembly I'm going to eventually use. I'll use standard track for the curves, but all my straights will be use flextrack cut to a custom length unless a standard straight piece will fit like at "H".

 

Oh, and don't forget those 4 filler pieces that should have come with your turnouts.

 

 

BTW, I've been more than happy to help. I like playing with designs, but I sure didn't expect you to actually use one of them, so it will be a real treat to watch your progress and see the finished project.

I see in another thread that your Mianne benchwork has arrived and you have been busy putting it together. Since your train room is an odd size, do you mind if I ask what size benchwork you ordered? Was it something like a 6x9x7 horseshoe?