I have a few Hudson projects where the raw iron scale pilot truck wheel faces need to be painted black. I experimented with my usual paints but within a few laps the edges of those wheel faces were already starting to chip and flake. Does anyone have a recommendation for a good tough paint that can withstand the stress of operation? How do the manufacturers do it?
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Most wheels are chemically blackened and not painted. See here for Blacken-It, a well known metal blackening solution.
Larry
I have always used Scalecoat Loco Black for drivers and engine truck wheels.
For the best adherence of paint, you may need to use an etching primer first.
Larry
Funny thing is my choice paint is the etching primer. The black that SEM makes it in is nearly an exact match to my modern Hudsons. However it just doesn't seem to be able to withstand the bumps and movements of the pilot truck.
You ask excellent question.I want to blacken the pilot wheels on my Milwaukee Road 261 Lionel made a few years ago.
Dan
Very little experience with sintered wheels, all negative. Why not replace with steel?
I would get a Testors pen - flat black - and simply touch them up when needed. Just take the cap off and touch the offending spot.
I have a few Hudson projects where the raw iron scale pilot truck wheel faces need to be painted black. I experimented with my usual paints but within a few laps the edges of those wheel faces were already starting to chip and flake. Does anyone have a recommendation for a good tough paint that can withstand the stress of operation? How do the manufacturers do it?
What did you do to clean the surface that you are painting?
I have a few Hudson projects where the raw iron scale pilot truck wheel faces need to be painted black. I experimented with my usual paints but within a few laps the edges of those wheel faces were already starting to chip and flake. Does anyone have a recommendation for a good tough paint that can withstand the stress of operation? How do the manufacturers do it?
I have used Birchwood Casey Super Blue on my Live Steam locomotive project. It dries a very dark blue, and will not flake off.
From my research, the reason the paint/etching primer is flaking off is an improperly prepared surface. Parts must be very clean, final washed with soap and water, and dried with a clean, lint free cloth. Solvents used to clean the parts, even though dry, may leave an invisible residue that will affect the adhesion of paint. You may wish to look into automotive metal prep and self-etch primers.
Larry
I did wash the surfaces to be painted with soap and water. Perhaps I wasn't thorough enough or didn't allow enough drying time? I'll try once more with more rigorous preparation and if that doesn't hold up either I will try metal blackening solutions. In the meantime feel free to continue discussing the subject, as it is very useful for others' reference. Thanks guys!
I did wash the surfaces to be painted with soap and water.
Sometimes it's hard to get rid of that last film of soap -- some pure distilled water and then some pure acetone to get rid of the water and then drying it all without handling - cotton gloves.
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