Repainting Die Cast Steam

I've done a bunch of this.

1 - don't strip it.

2 - if you only want to detail and re-number/re-letter the loco, just remove the lettering (acetone; sanding film; an eraser and patience - really) and decal it all you want. Don't re-paint it.

3 - the new parts can be painted by hand using a good acrylic - it foes not leave brush marks.

4 - if you want to paint it after the detailing, remove or sand down (with the sanding film; get that at Hobby Lobby or on eBay) the numbers, clean the shell in soap and water (dry overnight), prime with a spray gray or black primer (hardware store spray can), let dry overnight, then paint with a flat or satin hardware store black (if that's what you want). Several light coats. Spray the underside first. Take your time. No hurry.

Testors model spray paints can be used instead of the "big cans"; probably even easier to use.

5 - let the black cure for 2 - 3 days, then decal. Use Micro-Set or Solvaset on the decals after you apply them. Overspray the decals - the whole loco/tender - with Dullcote.

6 - the "lighter" shade (graphite) on the smokebox (and lower firebox, probably) can be done with masking and spray gray of your choosing - or - the aforementioned good quality acrylic and a brush, requiring minimal masking.

7 - try all this on a test piece to get the feel; you're new at it. Play around. An old zinc tender shell or boiler, even a piece of die-cast rolling stock (better to mess this up rather than your pet project). This relieves the "nerves".

8 - there are fancier ways, but I swear they all look about the same after they're done.

ES33:  Best thought for you is to use spray cans.  For a locomotive in excursion service, solid black is Okay, but if you're going to bring it back to regular freight utility service, I would use a paint color called "grimy black".  It has a bit of a dark green color to it and, to me, it looks more prototypical.  Of course, while the engine is in excursion service, it's really "spiffed up", fresh paint, washed off often, grease and smoke stains removed, etc.    Also, in excursion service a nice, white running board edge looks nice.  You'd probably have to do this by hand.  In the old days, in regular service, the maintainers would not have had time to go to this much detail.

Incidentally, my favorite paints are from ScaleCoat, formerly owned by Weaver but now owned by another couple.  You can find it on the internet.

Paul Fischer

Thanks guys, already getting exactly what I need. D500, the engine will need repainted. The grey is too light and the engine is Brunswick green with red highlights over the cab. Please, if you have anything more, please go ahead! 

I do 99% of my repaints with spray cans. I have a lot of post here on this forum on how I do it. With care and some practice anyone can do it. Use the search button to find everyone's posts on painting. A few of mine...

You do great paint Dave.

Here's a look at a postwar 2025 I resprayed with rattlecan paint:  

https://ogrforum.com/...restored-lionel-2025

Mitch 

If you only needed to remove the lettering I would suggest lacquer thinner. Lionel paint on diecast stands up to lacquer thinner but the lettering will come off in a few minutes without damaging the underlying paint. I am assuming the tender is die cast also.

Since you have to change the color I would try and strip the paint. Lionel paint will come off easily using methylene chloride. Not so easy to find but its the main component in many solvent strippers.

This tender was stripped completely then repainted with PJ1 Special Satin Black. I found it matches the sheen of Lionel and MTH engines pretty close. No primer needed.

The engine only had the lettering removed. It began life lettered for C&O. Then lightly weathered.

Can't help with rattle can paint for your smokebox. I would use graphite in my airbrush.

Pete

For the smoke box, try gun metal--that color can be found in a can.

Before decaling, you can lay down some Glosscote; after they are on and the Dullcote goes on, the film will be even better hidden than with just using the Dullcote.

Is isopropyl alcohol a good paint stripper? I've been reading. Looks like you just soak it then use a toothbrush to clear the paint off correct?

    I wouldn't call it good, but if it works for you, there is no harm. The body should be wiped clean with a solvent before squirting, then keep your fingers off of it.

   The paint may stand up to lacquer thinner short term, but a long soak will take it off of near anything. I've used it as a makeshift stripper... and unclogged a Devill paint gun that had a pint of 30 year old hard shell gloss enamel dried up in the can ( not me, my step-dad did it after wrecking my fist car's paint job with "one more coat".....before the other had cured fully . I swear he did it on purpose. Didn't want me in a nicer ride than his is my guess . With some air pressure and poking, it cleaned up from tube to tip.

   Another reason to strip would be crisp detail. Each layer of paint detracts from the detail sharpness. 

Good luck. Don't forget we love to look at pictures

A nice paint for black steamers is Krylon's Semi-Flat (1613).

Alan