I've been doing some O-27 repaints to better represent my RR empire. However, I seem to do a lousy job with applying the decals. I just have trouble cutting out the shapes especially circles. What's the secret to cutting/trimming the decal so it looks good on the model?
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I used a #11 Xacto Blade on my last 2 decal jobs. I also had purchased a proper cutting matt several years ago when I started scratch building stuff. You want to cut as close as possible to the actual decal image < 1/16". The blades are exceptionally sharp, so you won't have trouble getting a clean cut, no tears or ragged edges.
I would also strongly recommend that you Gloss Coat the areas you're putting new decals if you want the best result then follow the instructions for MicroScale "MicroSol" and "MicroSet". Some folks say you don't need to, but it helps eliminate silvering (that's where the clear decal backing shows and reflects light differently)
AFter everything is completely dry and your pleased with the laydown, no bubbles, edges laying down. You need to top coat with your finish of choice, Either Dull Coat, if you want a flat finish, or semi-gloss or gloss Lacquer
"Silvering" is caused by air between the decal and the paint surface. You ned to get the decal to lay down. A smooth surface, setting solutions, a sharp point pin and a Q-tip are a big help. Knowing how to use them is the trick and comes with experience!
As for trimming decals, I find that using a sharp pair of sissors works for me most of the time. A new #11 X-Acto blade comes in handy sometimes.
I’ve used these scissors for years that are available from Micromark.
@chris a posted:I used a #11 Xacto Blade on my last 2 decal jobs. I also had purchased a proper cutting matt several years ago when I started scratch building stuff. You want to cut as close as possible to the actual decal image < 1/16". The blades are exceptionally sharp, so you won't have trouble getting a clean cut, no tears or ragged edges.
I would also strongly recommend that you Gloss Coat the areas you're putting new decals if you want the best result then follow the instructions for MicroScale "MicroSol" and "MicroSet". Some folks say you don't need to, but it helps eliminate silvering (that's where the clear decal backing shows and reflects light differently)
AFter everything is completely dry and your pleased with the laydown, no bubbles, edges laying down. You need to top coat with your finish of choice, Either Dull Coat, if you want a flat finish, or semi-gloss or gloss Lacquer
All of this.
Ruler, sharp blades, gloss coated surface. Dont apply microset until the decal dries. If its still floating and you apply the red bottle, you're screwed if the decals moves.
If you have bubbles after the microset, poke the bubbles with the tip of the blade and microset again. Some decals are too thick for microset and you'll need to use Walthers solvaset to get them to lay down. Dont jump directly to solvaset if you're not sure... its "hot" and can wreck some decals. I always see where I get with microset, even if I know in advance i'll need to solvaset it all the way down. I usually lightly gloss over decals, THEN dullcoat it. The gloss under and over seems to hide the edges more.
Why do you have to trim the decal. Last I checked you rough cut each piece out with scissors, then slide it off on to the model when ready. You don’t have to ‘trim’ the decal beforehand.
@William 1 posted:Why do you have to trim the decal. Last I checked you rough cut each piece out with scissors, then slide it off on to the model when ready. You don’t have to ‘trim’ the decal beforehand.
Because, a lot of decals are NOT separate for one thing. And, trimming the decal as close as possible eliminates that much more of the decal film that needs to be "settled down"...read less film to possibly "silver"!
One option is have a friend who is into military models do your decals for you.
I use scissors that are designed to cut lexan r/c car bodies. The blades are curved at the ends, making it easy to control the path of the cut.
@William 1 posted:Why do you have to trim the decal. Last I checked you rough cut each piece out with scissors, then slide it off on to the model when ready. You don’t have to ‘trim’ the decal beforehand.
Screen printed, high volume decals are like that. Microscale decals, for example. The decals that come with plastic models, etc... where each graphic is a separate piece of decal film on a backing. But a lot of decals are printed on a sheet of decal paper, and anywhere that isn't printed is clear film. The closer you can get to the graphic you want, the less clear film you have to deal with.
If you get the process right, you don’t see anything.
This is 38 individual decals:
Trucolor paint, trucolor gloss, then 50/50 flat and gloss to tone it down. No weathering other than brown/red wheels.
The numbers on the cab are factory printing. Everything else is decals (individual letters, I’m insane)
Also Trucolor, glossed, weathered with diluted Trucolor paints and pastels, then flat clear.
Super easy, trim them really close -- my mother used to do extremely fine paper cut work and she turned me on the using ultra fine cuticle scissors -- totally avoiding the "Hobby Tax" where they are presented as something hobby specific and cost 10X more.
These are the ones I have been using lately, work perfectly for even the tiniest trims.
And if you don't want to cut decals, there are always dry transfer lettering sheets available!
All great feedback. I ordered the cuticle scissors just a few moments ago. Thanks!
Good Afternoon Everyone,
In addition to all the above great tips, I use Tamiya decal scissors with excellent results.
What about using a Cricut to print out vinyl decals?
I've done a few custom builds. Maybe not perfect but I'm satisfied with the results.
I've done the matte, apply with Micro-scale, matte, process on both. All decals are water-slides. I cut them off the main card with an exacto blade and straight edge. The cuticle scissors are a good suggestion.
The MOW car is a combination of new decals from a local supplier, the numbers are all old Chooch
These are from the same custom supplier (just the engine). The surface and color you are applying to makes a big difference. This body is very smooth so hiding the backing film is tough.
Bob
@RSJB18 posted:I've done a few custom builds. Maybe not perfect but I'm satisfied with the results.
I've done the matte, apply with Micro-scale, matte, process on both. All decals are water-slides. I cut them off the main card with an exacto blade and straight edge. The cuticle scissors are a good suggestion.
The MOW car is a combination of new decals from a local supplier, the numbers are all old Chooch
These are from the same custom supplier (just the engine). The surface and color you are applying to makes a big difference. This body is very smooth so hiding the backing film is tough.
Bob
Bob, Nice job on the decals. I had the issue with the backing film. I’ll have to go back and look but the suggestion on Weathering Wednesday was to use Micro Sol or Micro Set. Sorry I should print it out and keep it with the bottles, I can never key it straight. All that work has been set aside until I can paint outside.
@pennsyfan posted:Bob, Nice job on the decals. I had the issue with the backing film. I’ll have to go back and look but the suggestion on Weathering Wednesday was to use Micro Sol or Micro Set. Sorry I should print it out and keep it with the bottles, I can never key it straight. All that work has been set aside until I can paint outside.
I can't keep them straight either. I think Set is for setting them and Sol (like solvent) does the flattening after.
@RSJB18 posted:I can't keep them straight either. I think Set is for setting them and Sol (like solvent) does the flattening after.
Blue bottle first, Red bottle second. AND BEWARE! If you are actually using "Micro-Scale" decals, follow their instructions! After applying the Red stuff...do not touch the decal again until it dries!!! The decal may appear to wrinkle, but, that is what Micro-Scale decals do. Just leave it alone and it should lay down.
Again, never, ever use Walther's Solvaset on a Micro-Scale decal! It will eat it up!!!
Other makers decals vary in their ability to conform to details.
@Big Jim posted:Blue bottle first, Red bottle second. AND BEWARE! If you are actually using "Micro-Scale" decals, follow their instructions! After applying the Red stuff...do not touch the decal again until it dries!!! The decal may appear to wrinkle, but, that is what Micro-Scale decals do. Just leave it alone and it should lay down.
Again, never, ever use Walther's Solvaset on a Micro-Scale decal! It will eat it up!!!
Other makers decals vary in their ability to conform to details.
the temptation to touch them is strong with this one......
Yea- had to walk away once or twice and just let the stuff do it's job.
Agree with what others have posted about using an Exacto knife with a new, sharp blade and a self-healing mat to cut out your decals. IMHO, the Exacto blade makes a cleaner cut in the decal material than using scissors.
I also try to slightly undercut the edges of the decal to eliminate as much excess material as possible without slicing into the printed decal.
@Richie C. posted:Agree with what others have posted about using an Exacto knife with a new, sharp blade and a self-healing mat to cut out your decals. IMHO, the Exacto blade makes a cleaner cut in the decal material than using scissors.
I also try to slightly undercut the edges of the decal to eliminate as much excess material as possible without slicing into the printed decal.
This is how I have cut decals since I first starting custom painting at a teenager longer ago than I care to admit.
The only thing I would add is that if I am decaling to a plate that will be applied, I cut the decal a little larger than the plate and then use the setting fluid to get it wrap the edges so there is no exposed edge on the film. This comes from very recent experience.
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