Reverse loop with MTH switches

You need to have a small piece of track with the center rail isolated between the two switches with a lot of MTH switches. I know for certain that my RealTrax 072 switches wouldn't work without a small piece of track between them. That's why I switched over to Gargraves track and Ross switches for the extension of the layout I am currently working on. They allow you so much more flexibility. 

Paul,

Thank you for the info. I'm new to MTH, although now wish I used Atlas. I have a 10 inch section of tract between the "problem" O42 switch and the O31 reverse loop switch.

If I isolate the center rail between both switches, how do engines run over the track since they will have no power on the center rail? Or do I run a separate wire to the center rail to give it power? But then when I do that, wont that negate the idea of isolating the center rail?

I'll play around with your recommendation and see what happens.

Ray

Paul,

I just tried your idea, and no luck. 

I used an MTH insulated track, 40-1029, removed the center wire from the under side. Installed it at the entrance to the O42 switch, between the O31 reverse switch and no change. Even using a separate power supply for the O42, it just will not move the points to the curve.

So back to square 1.

Did I do something wrong?

RAY 

Ray,

Be careful running trains over that switch until you find a fix.

I had the same problem, and just when I thought I had it fixed, the switch threw exactly like you said, while one of my MTH woodsided Premier Passenger cars was passing over it, with the leading wheels ahead of the switch contacts, and the rear wheels behind it.

Caused a short that burnt out the switch!

This and many other reasons is why I tore up my RealTrax section of my layout and am going with 100% Fastrack.

I know that is not 100% fool proof either, but its the lesser of 2 evils.

Here are the issues I have had with MTH RealTrax:

1) After disconnecting 2 track pieces you have to check and make sure that one of the contacts did not get pulled and bent at a 90' angle, rendering it useless.

2) Per above, you have to bend it back and risk the contact breaking off due to metal fatigue.

3) After attaching 2 tracks, you have to check to make sure the contacts touch and/or did not become "interwoven" and do not touch.

4) Older RealTrax was solid rail, newer RealTrax is hollow rail, the two types do not join cleanly and can cause issues because of the displacement of the rails, i.e. they are not aligned with each other.

5) Real Trax is ugly

6) Switches burn out much more frequently than other brands.

7) Insertion is much more forceful than other brands.

"The switch is OK in the straight position, but when I try to throw the points in the curve section, it keeps kicking back to straight"

Doesn't this sound like the non-derailing feature is working and kicking in? When in straight, the inner rail gnds and makes the switch straight.

When a train comes into the curve part of the switch, the inner rail gnds and makes the switch change to curved.

But, if the inner rail is gnded by the rail of the track touching it, it will stay straight thinking a train is on it. Throwing the control, having a train approach from the curve side, or taking a wire and gnding the inner rail on the curve side will NOT make the switch throw....it will still think there is a set of train wheels on the straight approach.

Remove the track adjacent to the straight rail on the double track end...or make certain that the rail is not touching the inner rail of the switch. I can tell you, I have used plenty of these switches on reverse and other loops, and it is mainly when the inner rail becomes grounded, and it should not be, that there have been the type of problem you describe.

Maybe this will help, maybe not. Greg

Greg may have your answer...I have had the same type of problem and most of the time it was the inside rail. I actually had to take a Dremel to a few of them to solve the problem. First, I stuck a small piece of electrical tape in between to see if it helped...not pretty, and probably not the best way, but it worked for me.

you need a gap between the rails to isolate them. The anti derailing feature will automatically throw the switch because it thinks there is a train coming into the switch from that side.

When I stated to remove the track above, I meant for testing purposes. If that solves the problem, then you know it is a gnd....and either the tape, grinding of rail away, or any other solution to remove rail to rail contact can be used permanently.

Since I only put up a layout at Christmas, and I put the track directly on snow blankets without screwing it down, I can attest that even the weight of an engine going over the switch will press the joint down and activate the non-derailing feature by gnding, and thus switch the unit.

Experiment and I think you will easily solve your problem....or maybe not!

Greg

I have the same problem and I think the solution is in the MTH instruction booklet for the switch. There is a section titled, "Multiple Switch Operation Through One Remote Switch (Using track power)," that should work. Essentially what this arrangement does is connect the Straight AC Power terminal of the primary switch to the Curved AC terminal of the other switch, and connects the Curved AC terminal of the primary switch to the Straight AC Power terminal of the other. Both AC Common terminals are connected. The remote toggle switch connects to one of the switches in the normal fashion.

When a train enters the straight of the primary switch, it should throw the other switch to the curve direction. The reverse scenario occurs when a train enters the straight of the other switch.