SF F3 AA #22L-22C - 6-85186 - Locked Truck !

It's the truck assembly.  The gear pins are binding the gear rotation.  Replace the offending truck 

J Daddy posted:

It's the truck assembly.  The gear pins are binding the gear rotation.  Replace the offending truck 

Are yo taking about the gears that are mounted with the push in stud?

shawn posted:

J Daddy posted:

It's the truck assembly.  The gear pins are binding the gear rotation.  Replace the offending truck 

Are yo taking about the gears that are mounted with the push in stud?

Yes, When I loosen screws and " loose screw " the truck was ok with run test...but after time this problem back and  locked Truck.!
I need this when I was to lubricate after open box ! He already was locked !

My experience with this kind of issue is that sometimes you can shim the motor on one side or the other to adjust the spacing of the worm gear.  I'm dealing with one like this right now, it was dropped and I'm sure something has been bent.  I was able to shim the motor so the worm engaged properly and it runs.  Not pretty, but it works.

FWIW, I had the same issue on the MTH Aerotrain, and that one was not dropped AFAIK.  After tuning the motor angle, proper running was obtained.

gunrunnerjohn posted:

My experience with this kind of issue is that sometimes you can shim the motor on one side or the other to adjust the spacing of the worm gear.  I'm dealing with one like this right now, it was dropped and I'm sure something has been bent.  I was able to shim the motor so the worm engaged properly and it runs.  Not pretty, but it works.

FWIW, I had the same issue on the MTH Aerotrain, and that one was not dropped AFAIK.  After tuning the motor angle, proper running was obtained.

Yes ! Because when I disassemble the truck he is perfect free run in my hands !

I think I will need washers to put between chassis and motor on one side or other !

Thanks !!

I use various thicknesses of Styrene and cut shims to make the adjustment.

It's really is not good ! I stayed very disappointed because the new product and It already the problem !

Now I will try attempts and errors until fixed !

Thanks !

Well, you shouldn't have to deal with this, have you considered returning it?

gunrunnerjohn posted:

Well, you shouldn't have to deal with this, have you considered returning it?

So, Yes I think !!!

But this year I will not go York Show in October.
For I sending direct it's very complicated and very very cost, so I think I have to try fixed this !

All help is welcome ! I think until to buy new truck or change first truck with rear truck ! But now I will try to use spacers !

Leandro, since you say returning the loco to Lionel is not an option, if you are mechanically inclined, I would carefully remove both trucks and motors and on the largest table you can find I would take both trucks completely apart as far as things are held together with screws clips and solder. You should not have to deal with parts such as wheels and axles which are pressed together.  I would keep the parts for the front and rear trucks carefully separated so as to insure no parts got mixed up and I would line them up in neat rows and one by one compare each part of each truck. Assuming that one truck is functioning well as designed I would take each part of that truck, one by one, and compare it to the corresponding  part of the truck which is binding up. As you disassemble the loco make many photos or videos of the process. You can even narrate the video describing what you are about to do. if possible, before starting the process I would find the Lionel parts diagrams for your loco and print them out, if they are available. If you are not accustomed to working on or around the electronics on modern locos you will need to wear a grounding bracelet to guard against static discharge when you are handling the boards on the loco and a proper grounded static safe soldering iron. NOT A SOLDERING GUN.  Post us some photos and videos and I am sure you will have plenty of help from forum members.       Good Luck!          j

Hi Leandro,

That is some bad luck. Lionel service is moving now, I don't think that they can help.

John (gunrunnerjohn) repairs many engines. Follow his advice. he gave me a tip of using the plastic piece that clips around the twisted end of bread bags. I don't know they package bread in your country, but that plastic piece makes good shims. 

I don't know if you will find washers thin enough. Using styrene or plastic packing pieces from toys or food containers will permit making shims of various thickness. Use those to tilt the motor to align the gears.

Good Luck!

The support site is down, so I can't look up the product number.  Are these not "LionDrive?"  I thought all recent Lionel diesels used a ball-and-cup style U-joint to link the motor to the truck.  In which case, shimming the motor wouldn't change the mesh angle of the worm.  Did Lionel regress to their c. 2000 design (which was similar to MTH?)

Think you are right Ted the bottom of the trucks look like LionDrive to me. I only have one such loco a 34704 PRR Sharknose B unit. Got the thing new in the box for $89 on ebay.  When I took the shell off I was astounded that the motor cans did not rotate with the trucks. I had originally thought I would rob the electronics to put in another loco but the thing was so cool I did not have the heart to bust it up. Looking at the way it all goes together, I wonder, if it were in the foam lined retail box and dropped from about waist high landing very flat on the floor that the top of the can and the flywheel become a lever arm that extends down to the ball and cup which becomes a fulcrum. I think in that scenario the Styrofoam is not compressible enough to absorb the shock.  Who knows,  a complete disassembly will answer what the problem is.            j

After watching the video again, I agree with JDaddy.  We've discussed this before.  The problem is axle gauging and the mesh of the spur gears on the outside of the truck.

https://ogrforum.com/...-lionel-service-dept

Mr. Garcia might be a candidate for the "bread clip mod," but the real solution would be a new truck block from Lionel with properly gauged axles, and spur gears that don't wobble excessively on their studs.

Ted S posted:

After watching the video again, I agree with JDaddy.  We've discussed this before.  The problem is axle gauging and the mesh of the spur gears on the outside of the truck.

https://ogrforum.com/...-lionel-service-dept

Mr. Garcia might be a candidate for the "bread clip mod," but the real solution would be a new truck block from Lionel with properly gauged axles, and spur gears that don't wobble excessively on their studs.

I had an SD-40-2 "pre LionDrive" that had loose drive axles and found that the wheels were just not pushed on the axles to the stop.  By the time I figured this out I had the motors out and the trucks off the chassis. So I pulled the side frames off and with two paint paddles between the jaws of my large vice and the wheels I slowly cranked the jaws of the vice closed. Problem cured.                   J

JohnActon posted:

Think you are right Ted the bottom of the trucks look like LionDrive to me. I only have one such loco a 34704 PRR Sharknose B unit. Got the thing new in the box for $89 on ebay.  When I took the shell off I was astounded that the motor cans did not rotate with the trucks. I had originally thought I would rob the electronics to put in another loco but the thing was so cool I did not have the heart to bust it up. Looking at the way it all goes together, I wonder, if it were in the foam lined retail box and dropped from about waist high landing very flat on the floor that the top of the can and the flywheel become a lever arm that extends down to the ball and cup which becomes a fulcrum. I think in that scenario the Styrofoam is not compressible enough to absorb the shock.  Who knows,  a complete disassembly will answer what the problem is.            j

yeah, I was thinking lion drive two the drive on the shaft of the motor can be a big issue. Sometimes the drive to the lion coupler slides into a place a causes some strange issues

JohnActon posted:

Leandro, since you say returning the loco to Lionel is not an option, if you are mechanically inclined, I would carefully remove both trucks and motors and on the largest table you can find I would take both trucks completely apart as far as things are held together with screws clips and solder. You should not have to deal with parts such as wheels and axles which are pressed together.  I would keep the parts for the front and rear trucks carefully separated so as to insure no parts got mixed up and I would line them up in neat rows and one by one compare each part of each truck. Assuming that one truck is functioning well as designed I would take each part of that truck, one by one, and compare it to the corresponding  part of the truck which is binding up. As you disassemble the loco make many photos or videos of the process. You can even narrate the video describing what you are about to do. if possible, before starting the process I would find the Lionel parts diagrams for your loco and print them out, if they are available. If you are not accustomed to working on or around the electronics on modern locos you will need to wear a grounding bracelet to guard against static discharge when you are handling the boards on the loco and a proper grounded static safe soldering iron. NOT A SOLDERING GUN.  Post us some photos and videos and I am sure you will have plenty of help from forum members.       Good Luck!          j

JohnActon, Thanks !

I will wait to back the page Lionel support for I can take " Lionel parts diagrams".

I also need to wait my new FOAM CRADLE ( My dog ate and destroyed).

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Carl, Thanks !

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Ted S, I will disassemble all and I'll take a new pictures ! I'll try after to buy a new truck !

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Shawn, Yes ..strange issues...

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Thanks, Guys ! I Love this Forum ! Coming soon new reports !

I had the same issues with my pennsilvania f7 from that run old it and it helped but still locked I sent it to lionel they replaced 3 trucks out of the 4 

Hi, Guys !

Today early I had the courage for I try to fix F3 Powered !

So I reversed rear truck with front truck(failure) and after of the many run test I hadn't more the problem again.

I hope so this problem has been solved !

You shouldn't have to spend more money to fix something that you bought new.  But you should order a couple of replacement trucks from the Lionel parts dep't.  Keep the best and send the worst ones back for credit.  When they're left with a warehouse full of broken trucks, then maybe they'll start doing quality control inspections!

Ted S posted:

You shouldn't have to spend more money to fix something that you bought new.  But you should order a couple of replacement trucks from the Lionel parts dep't.  Keep the best and send the worst ones back for credit.  When they have a warehouse full of broken trucks, then maybe they'll start doing quality control checks!

Ted, I live in Brazil so the send it's complicated but I 'm trying a contact for fix my legacy cab2# (again) and I don't answer of their !

I already try the contact twice without success!

Thanks !