Seeking advice on track approaches

cutting with a dremel tool, I would try to stick with one type of track preferably compatible with Ross Custom Switches, or go with Ross track too.  I have a blend of Atlas and Ross.

Thanks wb, I have heard of Ross custom switches but had not looked into them.  Do they by chance have manual switches that could work with caboose industry type throws?  Good to know they have track too.

Theres no reason you couldn't use 2', just consider that your scenery might be building flats rather than full buildings. Ross makes a full track system, its quite nice and USA made. The switches can be had in manual, and work with caboose throws. You could do it all out of atlas at well. Its just a matter of availability when you need it. Cut track with a dremel and a cut off wheel. 3 rail track is too big for a Xuron to handle. I think the xuron says up to code 100, but it will cut code 148. Atlas 3R track is code 215 and it would stand no chance. Also most 3R track hollow (except Atlas, Scaletrax and early production Realtrax), so you'd just crush it. I wouldnt waste the time on the realtrax. Just use one track system for all of it and save the trouble of all the rough running track transitions. Hollow rail realtrax can be cut and spliced back together with gargraves pins and soldering, but you need to get it real straight when you cut it so it goes back together well.

Thanks Boiler maker.  That all sounds great and I appreciate the help.

For the Ross track I was looking for flex track and the web site only seems to point at Gargraves flex.  Are the Ross long straights (think they were 40") flex?  There is not a lot of verbage on the Ross site.

Ross is all rigid. If you need a custom angle you need to cut it. The longest one is 29”
Gargraves is the flex track and it comes in 37” sticks. Its not exactly the same but it’s close.

Use Gargraves Track (FLEX!) and Ross Switches--YES Ross Switches are more expensive, but are ABSOLUTELY the best!!!  Second to none!  If you buy something else you will be replacing those with Ross later.  Save yourself the money.  Ask me how I know.  The vast majority of serious experienced modelers use Gargraves Flex Track and Ross Custom Switches!   Yes...there is a reason why.

GARGRAVES AND ROSS BOTH HAVE TUBULAR RAIL--forget rail nippers!!!  You will require a dremel with at least a 1.5 inch cutoff wheel--that is sharp.  You must NOT crush the ends of tubular track--pins won't fit.

Yes, you can mix and match---Atlas has solid rail.  MY OPINION--I do NOT like the look of mixing tubular and solid rail.  And, Ross Switches were made specifically to mate perfectly with Gargraves track.  And, a piece of Atlas Flex track (made in China) costs $27!  Yes $27!!!  A Gargraves (made in the USA!) flex strip costs about $10 bucks.  I will let you decide if want to pay 2.5 times more per piece of flex track. :-)

If you get Gargraves, consider the wooden ties and "phantom" (blackened) center rail--looks like 2 rail track.  Ross Switches have wood ties through each and every switch.  Gargraves has switches on a solid plastic base which can warp and cause the throw mechanism to get stuck.  Ask me how I know.

SPACING:  3.5 inches on STRAIGHT track. If it is a place where you will physically couple / uncouple cars: 4 inches so your fingers will fit.

Impossible to give you a precise answer for curves.  Depends on the length of the rolling stock and sharpness of curve.

I've given you to much to digest already.

I have to say, going to 2' deep to save one or two sheets of plywood seems short sighted. You are talking about building a large layout and severely curtailing your design options to save the price of a piece of rolling stock or two. Make the track plan you want and worry about the materials later.

I agree with Will that now is not the time to worry about some plywood wastage. You have the space so I would make the long narrow part three feet wide because that leaves room for future scenery and/or industrial sidings. I would not go wider that three feet because of reach. Part of that left-over plywood you will find uses for anyway .

You can cut any brand of track with a fine tooth blade in a standard hack saw as shown below.

rack was installed using a few short screws to hold it down.  Switches were installed as well as uncoupling track sections.  Insulated track pins were installed to form track blocks to allow every section of track between the switches and to form blocks for the coming relay and blocks for two train operation and for track sections with installed with isolated outside rails for relay controlled two train operation to come.  Wire pig tails were soldered to a track for each track section to provide power and ground and to each uncoupling track section and each outside isolated outside rail section.

Early on I made a Track Cutting Jig to help cut short sections of straight 027 track.

The jig  is made from a scrap of 3/4"  wood 2" x 2 1/4 " with a same size 3/8" plywood glued on the bottom.  Three slots were sawed, with a jig saw, 1/4" deep and 1/8" wide at the spacing of the three rails of 027 track.  A 1/16" wide slot was cut at 90 degrees to the track slots to accommodate a fine hack saw blade.

A piece of 1/2" plywood was made to act as a Track Hold Down.  Shown at the top of picture.  Groove was cut to go over the track tie if necessary

Picture of clamp holding Track Cutting Jig, track to be cut with hack saw with a fine blade and Track Hold Down.  The Track Cutting Jig is held in wood working vise.

I use a fine tooth hack saw blade and find the Track Cutting Jig makes cutting shorter pieces of track and easy neat job.

Since you are conscious of costs you should consider used standard O gauge track and switches.  Marx switches are lowest cost and Lionel, used, are easy to find.  Standard O track can be made to look more realistic by adding ties.

Post are from my OGR topic below which details construction of a low cost layout :

Building and Evolution of an Action Packed Fifties Era Lionel 027 Operating & Switching (31) Layout w/ Homemade $10 Turntable, RH & Wye

https://ogrforum.com/...ra-027-layout?page=1

Charlie

As far as cutting track to custom lengths, using a dremel and cut-off wheel can be tedious if you have a lot to do.

In addition, I'm not sure they make a cut-off wheel with a large enough diameter to cut across all 3 rails at once (someone can chime in if they know). That's important because trying to line up two or three separate cuts can result in an uneven overall cut.

You might want to check out the drillmaster line of small cut-off saws at Harbor Freight - one with a 2" wheel and one with a 6" wheel. They both have clamps to hold the track in place and an angle guide to make angled cuts. A little pricey, but quick and accurate.

https://www.harborfreight.com/..._psugg_q=cut+off+saw  

l use atlas flex track in 40 inch lengths, cut it to fit with a dremel, takes a bit of practice to learn how to make the length of curve you want.  I use two clamps and clamp it the the edge of a solid door that I have as a desk.  then It cuts easy, clean up with a file. Tip, buy a new file the size that fits in the groove of the track, always wear eye protection when using the dremel. I also use a dust mask.  I mark the cut with a marker.  I also use a headlamp as my eyes are not what they used to be.  Have fun.

I cut tubular track one rail at a time with a dremel cut of disk 1/4 INCH LONGER  than needed. That  gets rid of the excess track that gets in the way of making a good square cut. Then I use the dremel to cut the track to length with a good square cut. Clean up the cuts with a file if needed.

My layout is made up of all Atlas sectional track and Ross switches.  I like the look of the Atlas track, but stay away from there switches.  You can use almost any track system Ross, Gargraves, Atlas they all transition.

If it were me I would go with all Ross (track/switches) or Atlas/Ross.  Nothing wrong with Gargraves, except I don't like bending track.

@Robbin posted:

Thanks wb, I have heard of Ross custom switches but had not looked into them.  Do they by chance have manual switches that could work with caboose industry type throws?  Good to know they have track too.

Hello Robbin. We have used Gargraves track and Ross switches. We use the ground throw manual switch throws. They work perfectly. Let us know what you end up doing. Have fun!

John

Atlas can be cut with a 32 tooth per inch hacksaw blade.  Fine/finish adjustment with a bench grinder.  Another cut method/tool would be a Dremel with a large abrasive cut off blade.  Custom cuts  were used on my layout.

Safety meeting of the day.  Any cutting/grinding, eye protection is a must.

Wow!  Thank you all so much for your advise and time!  This is extremely helpful and appreciated.  I will definitely take all this in and make some changes such as going with 3' versus 2' (I just hate wasting wood, but that is silly as I also build or help build wood boats and you would not believe that amount of wood that ends up on the floor as shavings etc).

And the track advise is just great.  The pictures are fabulous and I am excited to see the incredibly well done layouts and the book via postings that includes construction of a turntable.  That is intriguing.

So thank you thank you for all your help everyone!  This is very exciting!

I don't understand why you believe you would be wasting wood.

For every two sheets you rip at 3 feet, rip one sheet at 2 feet.  1+2=3.

You can even have the box store rip these sheets for you.  Easier transportation and no sawdust in your train room.

Have fun!

Ron

Thanks!  The waste was not explained well and is probably not an issue.  To save time and effort I am placing the narrow sections of plywood on Costco tables that were on sale.  I was trying to avoid making splices if you will that would cause the plywood to not be on the tables.  And elevating the tables by putting boards under the feet as I would like the height to be closer to 48".

I built the table and grids for my other layouts and was trying to go around that for now.

But reusing the 1 foot sections elsewhere by attaching multiple sections is probably an option.  I sometimes/often get tunnel vision once I have a set idea and I think that is the case here.

It took me a second to understand what ron045 was saying, but this is how I understand him:

Cut a 4' x 8' sheet to be 3' x 8', leaving one 1' x 8'.

Cut a second 4' x 8' sheet to be 3 x 8 foot, leaving one 1' x 8'.

Cut a third 4' x 8' sheet to 2' x 8', giving two 2' x 8' pieces.

Take a 1' x 8' and lay along side a 2' x 8' making it a 3' x 8'.  Do this twice.

The result will be four 3' x 8' sections made from three 4' x 8' sheets.

Reducing any waste