Soldering Trick

Some things are so simple, you just never think of them.  Great, and helpful hint.

Good idea, and requires no extra tools.

 

I'm lazy and use one of these.

 

I've always left or added solder to those holes.  They are a lot simpler to heat up and push the new tinned wire into for a good connection.

John's device pictured, is a solder sucker. Push the spring loaded end into the tube.  Heat the solder connection to liquid, then press the yellow button on the side, to release the spring load plunger, sucking liquid solder into the white tip, left end of picture.  This tool usually does a pretty good job of clean-up, especially in small delicate places. The solder once solidified inside the tube, requires the assembly to be broken-down, and cleaned.  Safety glasses are always a good idea.  Safety meeting of the day. 

You do occasionally have to clean it out, but it's very handy to have around.  I use it a lot, I've already worn out a couple of them and had to replace them.

 

I have a Weller desoldering iron, which has hollow tips, and a vacuum bulb to suck away the solder. I only use it on printed circuit boards, where it works fairly well.

For other  jobs, I often use solder wick to soak up excess solder before reconnecting things.

I think Jim's tip to use a toothpick to clear holes is a good one.

 

Here is a picture of the business end of the desoldering tool, I didn't find a picture of a complete unit.

 

Dang! And I've been using a "Solder Sucker" for well over 30 years?

 

Honestly, I can't see anything wrong with this process, and for the price, it can't be beat!!!

Yea, me too until today, but is this topic extremely valid?

 

Have you and I been wasting money on Teflon tips for our solder-suckers?

 

I'm reminded...very obscure and vaguely of some old proverbial saying that refers to the collective mind being better than a singular perception.

 

These dang solder-suckers are not cheap, and neither are their tips (as a previous owner of an Electronic Repair shop).

 

But a toothpick??? Can't beat it!

Jim,

   Good tip with he tooth pick and of course Guns advise on the newer type solder sucker is great also, have used both methods thru the years, the tooth pick most times gets the job done quite easily. 

PCRR/Dave

True Dave, but I think my solder sucker is a bit more flexible in it's use than a toothpick.  I must admit, I never thought of a toothpick for the task, I'm going to try it when that situation presents itself.

 

You can buy Johns solder sucker here:

http://www.digikey.com/product...id=0&pageSize=25

 

Suggestion. Dental pick also works well. If you ask your dentist if he has old or broken picks he/she does not use also works well.

The dental pick may last longer than the toothpick as well.

You can use a safety pin or sewing needle.  Take a wooden dowel, press the blunt end into the dowel with glue.

 

They are thinner and work great, and you can get the right size for the hole size. 

 

Though the tooth pick is perfect for larger gauge wire holes on a PW transformer.  G

IMHO, the advantage of using a solder sucker or solder wick is that these tools will remove excess solder, and leave a nice, clean eyelet. When you use a toothpick, you are just pushing the solder aside.

I have used a probe to open up eyelets  too, and sometimes I do both: remove excess solder with solder wick and then open the hole with a probe.

Whatever you do, be careful not to damage the wires coming from the transformer coil. I had one fellow bring me a transformer that wouldn't work after he replaced the cord himself. He had broken off the wires to the primary coil.

I was first employed as an electronics technicaian back in 1976.  I was soon introduced to both the solder sucker and solder wick.  I found the solder sucker to be most useful to me in most situations.  I didn't like the solder wick as much, but that is just me. I havent used either at work for some time as I mov to engineering about 8 years ago, but still have both at home.

 

back to Jim's original message.  I have used component leads for the same purpose as the toothpick.  I never thought of the toothpick, but that would work great, if one doesnt do enough soldering to want to invest in either of the other items.

Depending on where the terminal is located, I would suspect sometimes it's easier to get the toothpick into the area than the end of the solder sucker. 

 

And if the toothpick is still hard to fit, break it in half and use tweezers to maneuver it into the area.

 

Thanks for the tip.  I'll consider this next time I am in a similar situation.

 

-Dave

with solder wick it helps to have a temperature controlled iron.  the wick doesn't only suck up solder, but it also sinks heat.  you also need to match the wick size to the type of work you're doing, but i prefer it over a mechanical sucker.

 

cheers...gary

 

after seeing the previous comment, i might also add that Solder Wick is flexible to fit into tight spaces.

My grandfather taught me that years ago. He used the same technique when working on the Milwaukee road passenger cars back in the 30's

Search eBay for "solder sucker".  I like this style because the spring-loaded plunger is partially shrouded.  I find it less likely to hit your eye or whatever.

Stan, the one I posted has the plunger enclosed, that spring loaded "arm" is extended at full length after the unit is cocked.  No eye danger here.

 

Hve you actually used the one you posted?  The price is sure right, though I don't find one for 1.25 like that.  I'm assuming that is the aluminum one, right?  Always useful to have a couple in different toolboxes at that price.

 

Yes I've used it and it works fine.  I've used the "blue" traditional style for decades and this one generates a similarly effective suck.  It seems the key is a snug fit of the rubber O-ring that slides in the cylinder.  Or maybe I'm just lucky and got one with better matched parts; I'm trying to imagine if they do a suction test in production for this price.

 

One advantage of your style is you can cock it against the bench and then fire it with one hand...while the other hand holds the soldering iron.  I remember marveling at re-work techs who had a high suck per minute rate using this technique.  Though I think this is asking for a worker's comp claim for solder-elbow for the unusual arm twist motion to do this.

 

Edit: oh, I didn't answer your question about the body.  It's metal and I'm guessing aluminum based on a few places where the black paint has chipped off.  I see no writing or brand name on it though.

I might have to line up for one of those claims, I confess I cock it like that all the time.  If I'm sucking a multi-leg component, I just keep moving, and I don't bother to put the soldering iron down.

 

The only problem i don't like about the blue model type, It has quite a Kick  when released and if your working on a PC board with very small traces the suction  when release causes the tip to suck and kick and can damage the trace,especially if the trace is small like it is on the PS 2 5 and 3 volt boards and the trace can be destroyed!

I prefer the vacuum pump solder stations where you can control the vacuum and suction.

FWIW

Alan

I have the pint-sized solder sucker for delicate boards.  I confess, I've never had a solder sucker damage a board with the tip.  You can heat the board too much and then suck the traces off, a different issue.

 

I'm not talking about sucking the trace of at all, i'm referring to the kick of the solder sucker when released can sometimes cause the tip to jump and hit a trace!

Alan

quote:

I have the pint-sized solder sucker for delicate boards. 

 

The Weller unit I have pictured above has four or five different diameter tips.

I have one of those units with the bulb, but it wasn't effective enough for me to use.  I suspect if I spent a lot more money, I'd get a better one.  OTOH, what I have works well, so there's no real incentive to spend the money.