Spade Terminals

Yep, agree. I too prefer the ring terminals. They fit much better with some terminal blocks like the ones from MTH and Home Depot. Just wanted to know from the electrical guys whether using ring terminals actually creates another point of electrical resistance or not. I mean, there are enough other sources of resistance, don't need to be creating unnecessary resistance points.

I've used hundreds of them, on my layout, my Dad's layout, in the control panel, for all the Tortoise switch machines, etc etc etc. Never had a problem with them of any kind. Quick and easy, and I'm not an electrical guru

I'm a huge fan of these and use them all over the layout(s). As mentioned several times above, the key is a decent crimping tool.

Well, not knowing a thing about crimping tools, I bought the $5.99 Gardner Bender crimping tool that was the only one hanging with the spade terminals. I crimped one terminal onto wire as a test and pulled very hard. And then gave it to my 9 year old sons and offered $1 to the guy who could pull them apart. I still have that dollar. From that experiment I think the GB tool is solid.

Keep in mind that different mechanical connectors are designed for different wire sizes. It should be listed on the box.  I use a Klein Tool  (1006) to install the correct connector.  The ring that slips over the wire is not continuous and the opening in the crimp should be place to the die side of the tool.   IMO, this is a properly installed compression connector.
Properly set in the die.  The punch is on solid metal not the slit in the ring.

Note the symmetrical indent in the compression ring. The slit in the ring is to the back side in this picture.

Finished with shrink tube.

 Designed for wire sizes #10 to #22  From the Klein tool website. (1005 tool)

I apologize for posting the incorrect tool pictured.

Tool shown at the beginning of this post is Klein 1006. 

 

The 1005 tool is listed for insulated crimps, 1006 is listed for non-insulated crimps as shown in the pictures. Very important to use the correct tool.  There are other installation tools available.

 

Whenever I use a crimping tool, I always cradle the cut slot in the connector into the crimping tool and use the male side of tool to crimp in the non slotted side of the connector.

 

I have used this pratice for many many years and never had a crimp come loose.

 

Just like Mike CT has shown above.

 

Yes – was talking about ring terminals, similar to what's pictured in photo from Mike CT above.

 

Wow - this thread has been so incredibly helpful.  

 

As a follow-up - can anyone suggest t-tap or suitcase connectors (or whatever the correct name is for these things) to connect (I’m guessing) 18-22 gauge accessory wires and Atlas O track wired connectors to OGR’s stranded 16 gauge wire?  And, where to get them? 

 

In his very helpful book, Dennis Brennan says he uses them and I think they are a great convenience.  The problem is, I couldn’t find units on Amazon (or elsewhere) that would allow me to connect 18-22 gauge wire to 16 gauge wire.  To make matters worse, I called 3M and spoke to their tech guy to see if 3M had one to use for my purpose.  He said he couldn’t answer me as he’d first need to know strand designation (fine, fine-fine, etc.).  He said this made a world of difference in signal strength and flow.  I’m an electrical novice, so would appreciate “barney” style responses.  And, I don't need 5,000 units.  More like 25-50.  Thanks!

 

Peter