The crossroads "hickup" and Modern Control Systems.

Would you happen to have different transformers controlling the sections where this happens?

Are these single roller pickup engines?

Late 1970s Lionel Sante Fe (Pullmor Motor) Diesel Switcher, with two rollers up front, 2 1/2 inches apart.   The second roller, though, has a groove worn in it.

I am only using one transformer.

Thx,

Mannyrock

I have had the same issue with a few modern engines. Your center rail "dead zone" is just a little larger than the distance between where the collector rollers ride on the track. The faster you run across the dead zone, the less operation interruption, the slower you run, the larger the operation interruption.

This is why Lionel has the capability to install 9v batteries to at least eliminate interruption in the sound system. I have one Lionel modern 0-6-0 steam switcher that has a single wire tether from tender to engine, with a single collector on the tender, to allow the switcher to operate without interruption, as the engine is short, thus collector roller spacing is short. This technique of a tether from tender (or some other car) to an engine to prevent operation interruption is nothing new.

I acquired a used 3rd rail K4 steam engine that does the dead zone hiccup on only one switch I have. If I could only increase the collector roller spacing by 1/4", all would be well. I emailed Scott at 3rd rail, and he said that the existing tether between tender and engine contains track power, but that I could add a collector to the tender, attaching into the power in the tether, to eliminate the interruption. Scott said 3rd now often has added the tender collector into their new designs.

Thanks for all info.

If I can find a piece of scrap copper flashing,  I think I am going to try to make a small, shallow, copper box to fit over the center plastic square dead spot, run a hot insulated wire up through the rivet hole in the center of the crossing, strip a small bit of insulation off of the top of the wire, solder it to the underside of the box, and then epoxy the box down.    I see no reason why this wouldn't supply center rail power to the rollers as the engine passes over the center of the crossing.

If I am able to do this, I will report back on the results.  If it doesn't work, I guess I will try to build tethers.

Thanks

Mannyrock

You can use a piece of soup can to make the plate.

Just going to point out that the Ross 90° crossing is solid plastic in the center.

http://rossswitches.com/90degreecrossing.aspx

Conductive copper tape is also available. Included just one website as an example.

https://www.ebay.com/i/1642718...AEAYYBCABEgKmPfD_BwE

There is a Michaels in town.  Maybe they sell a thin square piece of copper, for hobby or jewelry making purposes.   (In the old days, I would just walk over to any construction site, carrying a pair of tin snips, and cut a piece off of a throw away scrap in the scrap pile.  If I tried this today, I would probably be shot. )