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On one of my locos , the couplers are thumbtack style. Changing couplers is beyond my level at the moment, so I am using the old zip tie method, and it works wonderfully. After reading the old posts and such, I wonder if anyone has just cut off the thumbtack part…..this is probably begging for trouble, but I got to ask…

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What is the make and type of loco you're having the trouble with Ed? For an example, the Ready Made Trains S-4 and RDC have die cast couplers that due to their mounting, are very stiff and can cause derailments on curves. Williams locos can have this problem also. I've read comments on their scale 44 ton and 70 ton switchers doing the same thing on 027 curves.

Some Lionel locos have plastic couplers with plastic armatures. This can be remedied via the video link ACDX Rob posted above. Though on locomotives, there is a plastic piece sticking off from the back mounting of the coupler which serves as a centering spring of sorts. Sometimes this can be a little stiff and cause derailments on curves. There's no quick fix for this without taking the loco apart, removing the truck and either cutting or bending back and forth that plastic centering spring to loosen it up.

Also, one more consideration: Sometimes it is the space within the closed knuckle coupler that is the problem. With all the various makes of trains cars, the couplers are all similar and slightly different. But there needs to be enough space within one car's closed knuckle coupler for another one to be attached without binding - which will cause derailments. You should be able to drop one car with closed coupler into another one with a closed coupler freely. If not, you may need to do some filing. The plastic couplers can sometimes have flashing on them from the molding process, which can be just enough to cause binding.

Every loco, while the parts may look very similar to others, are in reality very different. Parts from one brand look like they might work in another brand, but actually will not due to very subtle differences. I learned that one the hard way.

You could also use small black rubber bands versus the twist tie. You can find bags of small black rubber bands in the girls hair stuff at a dollar store. Plus the rubber bands make a pretty effective gondola load. So you fill a gondola and when you need a rubber band, you'll know where they are. Somewhere at a dollar store years ago, I bought a set of these dental type of tools, which are very useful for placing the black rubber bands, and a host of other things, like removal of old traction tires on locos and placing new ones.

Last edited by brianel_k-lineguy

I've read comments on their scale 44 ton and 70 ton switchers doing the same thing on 027 curves.



And there is the true cause of many a coupler and derailment issue. 027. 031. Geometry can only be pushed so far.

But - the video above per the coupler sprung armature adjustment is the answer to most of the opening-coupler issues until the last several years. The armature ("thumbtack") coupler has been shamed into oblivion, and what we have now are rolling stock couplers which have overly-long shanks (many cars now too far apart); hidden, fiddly release tabs; no adjustment capability when they won't stay closed (and they do this, too); and are generally non-repairable all around. These have put me off new RS purchases (not that I need more, anyway).

I'll take the thumbtack all day over these.

Thanks brienel027, I think that for my Williams SD90 loco, which is pulling passenger cars, the black rubber bands or zip ties are my best solution. Thankyou you all for the polite easy to understand responses. This is apparently an old topic that is new to me. I am just glad I did not start cutting stuff, I would have made a real mess.

I appreciate the knowledge that you fellows have, like I said before, I am learning at an exponential rate….

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