Time to install kadees..have an issue

You do indeed need to cut 1/8" off the rear (closed end) of the Kadee coupler box with a Dremel or razor saw. This will allow the three-rail tab on the truck to clear the coupler box and you get the advantages of the longer shank and swing of the Kadee 805's. The 806 is a short-shank/short box coupler -- great for close coupling, but restricts your operating radius on longer locomotives. My C40-9W's operate fine on 36" radius (O-72) but what gets them in trouble is uneven track.

Hope this helps.

Different engines require different solutions, so it is difficult to comment without knowing what models we are talking about. I've only tried the new medium shank Kadees (745s, I guess) on the newly delivered Dash 9-44CWs (picture below). I actually found I had to have less off the coupler box for these (just the screw mount shaft) than on other six axle models, like the Dash 8s, AC44s and ES44s. I like the new Kadees so far, and I plan to retrofit them into several other models, starting with my ATSF Dash 8s. So, no, I have not had to trim the coupler itself, or do I expect to have to do so when retrofitting it on existing models.

Again, what couplers to select and what to do to install them depends on the model. I use medium shank couplers on all GE types because the long cut levers rub in my turns with 806s. The 806 works OK, however on SD70ACes and SD45s. In fact, unless one cuts off the three rail coupler mount on the truck, you have to use 806s on the SD45. From past discussions, I think I remember Engineer Joe saying he came to the same conclusion about the GP35. It would help to know what engine you are having difficulty with.

Matt, did you get the CNW Dash 9s? How do you like them? One thing I'm finding with PS3 is that it seems much more sensitive to signal deficiencies than PS2. I have DCS anomalies with my Dash 9s in places on the layout where I've never had odd performance with PS2 engines. Otherwise, performance is quite good, and it is a good sound package.

RM

Hi RIch. Didn't buy the 9's because I have a pair of the earlier-released Proto-2 version. Debating whether I should get sacrifice a coupler of AC4400W dummy units and fix the chassis or just dump them and buy a pair of new ones. They're still in stock at MTH. Just bought three ATSF Dash 8's and thought the Dash 9's would be a bit redundant. Too much stuff/too little space.

Rich, thanks for the reply. I am dealing with a premier U-30 at this time. Interesting how you use different shank lengths for different locomotives. I liked my 806's but didnt like the rub in the corners. I suppose I could tighten up the cut lever bars to the pilot if I had to. I think I got the 745 to work,but there is very little metal left on the backside of the coupler. I will be dealing with sd-70's,dash8's, sd-35, and es-44ac. Any tips are appreciated. Just a stupid question......the kadee spring does go between the coupler box post and the rear side of the coupler.Right? Kadees picture on the packaging doesnt really show that.

Jini,

Glad to help. It sounds like the situation with the U30 is the same as with the SD45; there's just not much room to install a medium shank coupler, even with the box trimmed. The 806 just barely fits on the SD45, and the three rail coupler mount just brushes the back of the box (but doesn't interfere with the truck swing). I would like to mount medium shank couplers with offset heads on those because the coupler mount through the pilot is too low. But unless Kadee comes up with an offset short shank coupler in the new series, I'll probably have to cut off the three rail coupler mount. (I have cut off three rail coupler mounts before; it was the only way to fix the pilots on my Atlas SD40s). If you get it to work without doing that, though, let me know.

Modifying the cut levers actually might be an option. The U30 doesn't fit my era and its not a model I know much about, but a quick glance at some prototype photos on line confirmed my hunch that at least in the early and mid 70s (I guess the hey day for these), they used the older cut lever style similar to older EMDs. That one does not protrude forward at an angle like the ones used later. The style used on the MTH models may not be prototypical for your era.

The good news is that you can use the 745s on most of the other models you mention (don't know about the SD35). Just trim the box and install the spring like in Frank's photo above.

RM