Tinplate Tabs

Duckbill pliers, smooth needle-nose pliers.

I've been using a variety of small screwdrivers, etc. I'd like to try some of the small sculpting tools available on Amazon from Squadron etc. There is one in particular that looks thin and strong, and has rounded edges that might reduce the chances of scratching.

http://www.amazon.com/Squadron...ords=sculpting+tools

I was thinking of maybe a selection of the small screwdrivers and pliers with some sort of a rubber coating on the tips or edges. Are these available?

JoeG

I have used a fondue fork, but prefer the tool I made myself from an aluminum crochet hook that I slimmed down and slotted.

I've been very successful using a 1/4" wood dowel, with a section cut out to make it flat-sided.  Just press against the tab's point as you lift.

Why a dowel instead of a square-profile piece of lumber?  I sharpened the other end in a pencil sharpener.  It's useful for rubbing on small dry transfers and, dipped in solvent, for cleaning tight spots.

I’ve wondered for a while if it is possible to anneal the tabs to bend them easier.  In the case of a repaint this technique could be used to end the suspense of re-bending the tabs but I have yet to try it.  Has anyone tried this before and if so could you offer some insight into it?  In the mean time the way I unbend the tabs is start them with a flat head screwdriver then fully straiten it with a pair of pliers. 

As you describe, I have annealed tin plate tabs when repainting. I bring them to a dull red heat and let them cool slowly. I've never had one break, but I can't say if it was the annealing or luck. I do not close the tab, bending it just enough to secure the parts.

Just in case you are speaking of brass tabs, the process is different in that a brass tab is brought to a dull red heat and plunged into cold water. Again, no failures.

An old timer once told me that when he was re-assembling a tab he would slightly twist the tab in order to avoid making the same bend the third time at the same location. On occasion I have done this, without tab failure.

+1 on the wood dowl.  Use some gloves so you are holding everything securely.  This will help prevent you from slipping while attempting to bend/secure the tab.  The slipping action is where I usually end up scratching something (if something gets scratched).

The other tricks are try and only open them up just enough to remove the part, try and bend a slightly differnet area of the tab when installing, sometimes the light twist works on the install, although you have to be careful with the twist too as you can easily start a tear.

Joe,

  Not sure if those are available, but if that is your plan, you can coat your tools with a little liquid rubber. Last I knew, Micro-Mark sold it (mostly used for insulating wires) in their catalog.

  Also, Dennis said just twist the tab enough as needed for removing the part...that is good advice and do the same when reassembling. 

Tom 

Not really for bending tabs, but I find a parallel pliers with nylon jaws to be useful for bending tinplate or straightening it out. The pliers are too thick to use for opening and closing the tabs, but they are good for related jobs on tinplate. 

Yes, excellent advice.  A very slight twist, instead of rebending the original way, is all that's necessary.  It's not even necessary to tighten all the tabs, either, if just three of four will hold it.

Tom,

I had thought about that to get the tab up high enough off of the metal to grab with the pliers.

Thanks Joe

for Marx tin, my fingernail.

Hair dryer to heat them up