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Installation is pretty straightforward. All of mine have 1.5v incandescents. Just drill the appropiate size hole in the caboose and stick them in. I think most of the newer ones are LED. Depending what version you get will determine how you power them. For the incandescents I use two pairs of series wired diodes connected back to back. This diode set is wired in series with the internal lights assuming they are 12v or greater incandescents.

 

Pete

 

Norton posted:

Installation is pretty straightforward. All of mine have 1.5v incandescents. Just drill the appropiate size hole in the caboose and stick them in. I think most of the newer ones are LED. Depending what version you get will determine how you power them. For the incandescents I use two pairs of series wired diodes connected back to back. This diode set is wired in series with the internal lights assuming they are 12v or greater incandescents.

 

Pete

 

Pete, is everything included in the set from Tomar? Or do I have to get the components myself?

Hot Water posted:
Norton posted:

What is included is the maker housing and a light source with wires. The circuit to drive it will have to be put together. 

 

Pete

I seem to recall that separate power supply kits, even a AAA battery supply, were all available from Tomar. Why not just call them and ask?

I guess I should have been more clear in the original and got sidetracked in my reply to Pete. 

I was making sure I understood what all was included AND looking for any tips in installing.  I'll give them a ring tomorrow to see what they might be able to provide.  My fault, thanks all for the replies indicating it should be pretty straightforward.

Last edited by hirailsteve
Norton posted:

Steve, my only experience is with the incandescents. I am in York so have no way to take pics of my installs or circuits. It sounds like if you get the newer LED lights a power suppy is included. Either way I am sure you will find the installation very easy.

 

Petw

Pete, I'd love to see a picture if you're willing. Thanks very much! 

OK, here's what I did on my most recent application of Tomar marker lights to an old B&O wood caboose ki t.

I purchased these Tomar marker lights: #9807 (Walther stock # 81-9807).  They have the Red-Green lenses pre-installed.

Then, I ordered the following kit from Evans Designs:

Evans Designs Link

I would order the kit with two (2) nano chip LEDs.  The standard wire length of 8" was more than enough for installation in the caboose I built, because I made the model to have one removable side, giving very simple access to the coin-battery holder for eventual replacement. (More on this in a moment)

There is a video associated with this Evans product page, showing all the components, their assembly, etc.   They used chip LEDs, but the principle is the same with nanos....which give PLENTY of light for the marker lights!

I mounted my push button on-off switch in the floor of the car....easily reached with a pinkie from the side.  Some creativity could have the switch located elsewhere for convenient on-off.   Understand that the reason I chose to use battery power for the LEDs was to avoid having to use trucks with a center-rail pickup.  Besides the fact that the trucks I chose for my B&O model to be more accurate to the prototype did not come with such pickups, I just didn't want to have to deal with flickering light often associated with track power.  Adding capacitor(s) and rectifiers to avoid flickering and convert to DC was just more things I wanted to avoid. 

Finally, I have had the lights installed in the caboose with the Evans 3v coin-battery package for a couple years.  Granted, I don't run the car that often and with the lights on.  But when I do want them on, the battery is apparently yet fully charged.....the LEDs are as bright as ever.  And, yeah.....I suppose I could walk away and forget to turn the markers off.   But that's a small price to pay (for a new coin-batt) for the simplicity and beauty of the installation......IMHO, of course.

So, FWIW, that was my approach.  I intend to convert other Lionel, MTH, Atlas, etc. 'cabeese' that I have to use the same approach.

KD

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