Track wiring for a Mianne Lift Gate

I would use high grade fine stranded flex grade wiring and a cable chain. Always connected- no special contacts or other details that could fail with alignment and usage.

Kinda easy really, 1 massive common, 5 hot wires, one for each track.

Previous similar discussion https://ogrforum.com/...2#163743230033637152

@Vernon Barry posted:

It would be trivial to cable chain it VS using contacts. The point of a cable chain guide is it limits the bend radius to help prevent premature failure of the wire from flexing, but also forms a guide and system where nothing is sliding or rubbing.

Or the loop method- basically the same thing, just no chain guide.

https://ogrforum.com/...8#163743230034740948

Assuming that you have an understanding of how to set up a loop of track with sections that are isolated from each other electricly (called blocks generally). You just need to make the lift gate its own block or each of the 5 tracks running across it their own isolated block. The gate will have its own set of wires going from the power source to its track. I have a moving track lift on my layout. You have to figure in extra wiring so that the lift gate can move up and down. Again, not sure of your level of understanding on general track wiring.  Just trying to help!

@Boeingman posted:

I know we have some absolute geniuses out there with electrical.  First and foremost, I am building my first ever layout and it's big.  I don't know enough about electrical nor the track laying yet....but, I'm smart enough to ask questions.  So, I have a Mianne Lift gate in my layout.  5 tracks will travel across it.  I'm wondering how I keep the contact for electrical going using this gate?  Is there anyway to cleanly do this?  I appreciate your help on this.  Thank you, Bob

I have a number of tracks going across my lift bridge as well as four switch machines live there.  I use several loops of cable to bring both power and switch controls to the bridge.  The loops are on both sides of the bridge, see red arrows.  The white cables are power to the the power districts as well as the lower limit switch for the bridge travel.  The gray cables on the other side service the four switch machines as well as some spare wires for any future signals/buildings.

Thank you everyone for the replies.  Vernon, I love the idea of a cable chain.  Precise with less wear and tear.  Where do I find this product? As for my comfort zone or knowledge of wiring this layout....Let me state....I need to study a lot.  Any sources for gaining knowledge would be greatly appreciated. I would actually love to find someone who would love to be paid to do all this correctly.  Get everything wired and everything operational. I don't think I should have any problems with laying the track.  I have a pretty detailed diagram of the layout and I should be able to manage this.  But hooking up the power to safely operate the whole thing is another issue.  I want it clean and efficient.  I live in Conroe Texas, just North of Houston.  If anyone knows of someone or would like to make some extra money helping out, I live in a very nice house and you'll be well fed and cared for.  I will be your grunt.  Fast learner and good listener.  The whole purpose of this layout is to help kids find ways to find enjoyment in life and to also connect with the local children's hospital and offer a place for kids to come visit prior to or after going to hospital.  Our way of giving back.  But, if I have to learn this whole process, than all I ask is for suggestions of books or videos to study so that I can do this right.  Again, I'm blessed to have this forum to chat with and learn from.  Thank you. BTW, the layout is 13'X34'.  34" millhouse studio's turntable.  8 stall roundhouse, 4 bay engine shop and 2 bay car shop by Altoona Model works. Denver Union Station by TW Trainworx.  Brass Ogle coaling tower, Brass sand towers for steam and diesels.  Brass water and yard towers.  Diesel fueling area. 46 switches. Two mainlines and a very big yard.  Yes, I bit off a Giant White Shark portion here.  But, I've never given up in my life...Not going to start now.  I've dreamt of this all my life.  Now at 61, I'm grabbing the dream!

FWIW, I saw no need to add the chain, my cables hang in a nice loop and work perfectly.  You could add a little weight to the bottom of the loop if you had a problem with the loop staying flat, but I didn't have any issues, so I never bothered.

Hi, John, Looking at your pictures, might I ask a couple of questions? First, are you using 1/2" birch plywood and then 1/2" homasote 440?  Looks like then you're using a foam roadbed?  If so, this is exactly what I have planned for.  How's it all working out?

Second, Can you send me some detailed pictures of your liftgate wiring and track laying? I was thinking of having two bridges going across my liftgate with a water feature built in.  Just wondering how to accomplish this? 

Third, any pictures of your wiring and track laying?  Trying to learn as much as possible here.

Email Huntnfish@hotmail.com

I've always appreciated your responses to things I'm trying to accomplish...Thank you.  Bob

I’m really not familiar with the workings of the lift bridge. If there’s a way that the gate portion can sit several inches below the roadbed maybe by shortening it’s legs. The water feature could be built on the lift gate deck with bridge piers to hold the bridges in place. The piers, bridges and riverbed or retaining walls would go up as one.

@Boeingman posted:

Hi, John, Looking at your pictures, might I ask a couple of questions? First, are you using 1/2" birch plywood and then 1/2" homasote 440?  Looks like then you're using a foam roadbed?  If so, this is exactly what I have planned for.  How's it all working out?

Second, Can you send me some detailed pictures of your liftgate wiring and track laying? I was thinking of having two bridges going across my liftgate with a water feature built in.  Just wondering how to accomplish this?

Third, any pictures of your wiring and track laying?  Trying to learn as much as possible here.

Email Huntnfish@hotmail.com

I've always appreciated your responses to things I'm trying to accomplish...Thank you.  Bob

Apparently, you haven't seen my thread where all of the constructions is painfully detailed.

New Train Room Finally Getting A Layout!

Yes, I did indeed use 1/2" Baltic Birch and then 1/2" Homasote.  My roadbed is 1/4" foam from seller sparks00033 on eBay.  The main level is very quiet, all that stuff worked out well.
You might want to check out my upgrades to the Mianne Lift Bridge, they made it much more functional.

Mianne Lift Gate Control Expansion

Mianne Lift Bridge Lower Limit Switch Enhancement

Yes I found it. Been going over it. Have to go fly now, but I intend to read it over several times.  I got 1/2 purebond birch and 1/2 homasote coming as well as roadbed foam from that gentleman. Sounds like I’m doing the same thing you did. In fact, now that I’m thinking about this, you told me to go that way when I asked about plywood. Thx!! I just need to study a lot about track laying and wiring. I’ll start reviewing threads. Thx

Dave, I’m planning on building it right into lift gate. Only 4” depth like beams so I don’t lose clearance going under. Just building like a box to fit into the area between cable and beams. Just was wondering if anyone had attempted this? Pictures are worth a thousand Bob mistakes. Lol!

I have three tracks going over my liftgate together with quite a few accessories and funnel all wires in a “tether” as seen here:

@stangtrain posted:

I see you discovered that those beam hurt when you crack your head on them!

John: Yes!

I believe the pipe insulation was your idea!

In addition, I wear a heavy baseball cap when working under the table!