Trying To Get My New York Central 0-6-0 Locomotive Catalog #2231550 To Operate. (See it in the 2022 catalog on page 30)

Did you press the "set" button when programming. I.e. with the switch on PRGM press ENG 1, SET, then the whistle should blow, then remove power and set switch to RUN.

Otherwise, it takes a bit of effort to get the tether fully seated. I put one thumb on the front of the cab on each side. Then use the fingernails on my index or second finger on each side of the back of the plug and squeeze firmly.

I don't think it's possible to get the plug all the way in using the thumb and forefinger on one hand because they get in the way.

The tether is crucial to getting this engine to operate correctly.

This engine is backwards from any Lionel tmcc or Legacy loco before it. Typically all of the electronics is in the loco. Not so with this switcher, Everything including the antenna is in the tender.

Any strange behavior can most likely be caused by a tether not fully seated. Erratic speed control, stall/flashing cab light, as well as the rear coupler not firing are a few things I've experienced.

Yes RickO  I forgot to press the set button on the remote. I did and the locomotive started to operate but after it runs a short distance the locomotive stops operating and the light in the cab starts blinking. I shut off the power to the track and put the power back on. The locomotives starts to operate but after a short distance it stops again and the light in the locomotive cab starts blinking again. I tried running the locomotives several more times but the same thing happens. What could be wrong? I could take it to my local Lionel dealer and or contact Lionel.

I didn't have a problem connecting the tether into the locomotive but it was hard to get the coal pile piece off of the tender.

I also own the USRA 0-6-0 Pennsylvania B6 that I purchased 2 1/2 years ago when it can out then. It and all of it's features operate ok.

Ed Gerson

Ed, it sounds like Rick helped you to get the locomotive started using TMCC. That's good news.

I believe Rick's original post also explains that the tether plug becomes slightly unseated in the receptacle resulting in the locomotive running a little, then stopping and its lights blinking or flashing; and how to remedy that problem by getting the tether plug fully seated.

I've had the same problem with the tether plug becoming slightly unseated causing the locomotive to stall, usually through 031 curves. There is a recent Forum topic about this that I started, which is entitled "Problems re NY Central Legacy # 2231550."

I call Rick's solution the "Rick Squeeze." It has worked for me most of the time.

Another thing I did was gently remove the deckplate on the back of the locomotive and above the tether using needle nose plyers. That deckplate is purely cosmetic and my primary concern is to get this steam switcher to consistently run well.

Arnold

I cleaned the track and all of the pickup rollers and the locomotive ran a little better but once again it stalled and the flashing light in the cab appeared. I checked the tether and find that it was not staying all the in so as Arnold pointing out this seems to be the problem. I phoned Lionel and they sent me another RA to return it again to them. The tether has so many more wires compared to the other 0-6-0 I have from 2+ years ago as all of the electronics are in the tender because the locomotive boiler is too small to house them. I was told that when they receive it would be put in the front of the service line.

They only ones who are coming out ahead in all of this are the shippers (FED-X, UPS and now The USPS). The people at Lionel are giving them all of them an equal part of the shipping business in this case.

Ed G.

Years ago I purchased an Atlas 0-6-0. Maybe the only steamer they will ever offer. Like the new Lionel. Everything resides in the tender. Maybe 14 wires. Not sure. After my unboxing I had at it trying to get both plugs seated. Finally decided to lay it on it’s side and remove the front truck and move it out of the way which was easily done. There are actually 2 plugs. One on each side of the drawbar. Once together if the engine and tender needs to be moved off the layout it travels as one. My switcher never leaves the yard. The toughest thing it navigates is a #4 switch so I can’t comment on how it would perform on tighter turns. Originally I wasn’t a fan of the Atlas setup. But after reading many comments on Lionel’s 0-6-0. Atlas I think got it right.

@Dave_C posted:

Originally I wasn’t a fan of the Atlas setup. But after reading many comments on Lionel’s 0-6-0. Atlas I think got right.

Actually, I think they both got it wrong.

The tether on my Atlas O 0-6-0 steam engine operates without a problem on my Atlas O-54 curves and switches. But it is a nuisance to connect.

One of our Forum members is having difficulty running his Lionel Legacy 0-6-0 steamer through postwar O-31 curves and 022 switches. Part of the problem is that the thick wire bundle of Lionel's tether is just too stiff. So, my question is: Would it be feasible to run this engine conventionally by removing some wires from the tether to reduce its thickness (and stiffness) in exchange for eliminating some Legacy features - and would that produce reliable operation on O-31 curves and 022 switches?

MELGAR

@MELGAR posted:

The tether on my Atlas O 0-6-0 steam engine operates without a problem on my Atlas O-54 curves and switches. But it is a nuisance to connect.

One of our Forum members is having difficulty running his Lionel Legacy 0-6-0 steamer through postwar O-31 curves and 022 switches. Part of the problem is that the thick wire bundle of Lionel's tether is just too stiff. So, my question is: Would it be feasible to run this engine conventionally by removing some wires from the tether to reduce its thickness (and stiffness) in exchange for eliminating some Legacy features - and would that produce reliable operation on O-31 curves and 022 switches?

MELGAR

But I'm enamored with my Sally the Yard Goat's Legacy features, especially the swinging bell. LOL, Arnold

The problem is with the tether and it's connection into the locomotive. I believe that this is the first time that Lionel has issued a steam locomotive where it's boiler is too small to house the circuit board(s) so it or they are all in the tender and there are about 20 mini wires going into the tether from the locomotive and them into the tender. The tether needs to be seated just right to make the proper connection so that all of the features of the locomotive. I already had sent the locomotive and tender to Lionel but the tether connection is still the problem so now with another R/A I will have to send them back again.

How many others who purchased this 0-6-0 USRA steam locomotive that is shown in the 2022 Lionel catalog on pages 30 & 31 have had the same problem. Please let me know.

Thank you,

Edward Gerson (Ed New Haven)

I don't doubt that the wide tether is a nuisance, and probably more so on sharp curves.  But how sure are you that the blinking light is caused by a tether issue?

If I recall correctly, some Legacy control boards have a "protect" feature.  If the motor current exceeds a certain threshold, the board presumes that the motor is jammed or the loco is overloaded.  It stops the loco and blinks the lights, rather than risk burning out the motor or circuit board(s).

I know your loco is brand-new, and supposedly removing the boiler shell voids the warranty.  But before I would send it back to Lionel again, I would open it up  myself.  Turn the flywheel several times with your fingers for one full revolution of the driving wheels.  Make sure that it's smooth, and nothing is binding.  Check that there's lube in the gearbox too.  Put one tiny drop of oil on each of the side rod bolts.  It could be that with a lube and some break-in running, it'll loosen up and you won't get into that overload condition.  My $.02.

I’d agree with Ted, but before you go opening it up, try running it in conventional, and give her a good break in,……rollers would really help here,….or set each end on a block of something, and use alligator clips …..lube the rods like Ted suggests, and let er rip tator chip

Pat

@Ted S posted:

I don't doubt that the wide tether is a nuisance, and probably more so on sharp curves.  But how sure are you that the blinking light is caused by a tether issue?

The brains of the locomotive are in the tender along with the antenna. This engine is a complete opposite from any other command loco Lionel has ever offered. It  will not run without its tender.

A bad tether connection can cause a wide variety of issues. Dropping into conventional,stalling, and inoperative electrocouplers are just a few things I experienced.

There is an alignment peg on top of the male end of the plug that prevents the plug from going fully into the socket. If  one looks really closely through the side of the female plug on the loco you can see a gap between the male end of the plug and the back of the socket.

My best guess is, maybe this is by design? Otherwise ,if the tether fit snug. it would be nearly impossible to disconnect as there is nothing to grasp except for the wires.

Maybe filing off this alignment peg with allow the plug to fit more securely.

This is why I use two hands and a fingernail on each side on the back of the plug to push it in. There's no other way to get force onto the plug.

No worries. The Russian decapods use this same tether. I'm sure we'll see more complaints.

Stalling is one thing.  Yes that could be caused if the tether fails to transmit AC from the track, DC to the motor, or even loss of tach signal.  But- the blinking cab light is a programmed cry for help.  Without downloading the manual for this specific loco, it usually signifies an overload condition.  That suggests something's binding, rubbing, or not properly lubed.

I know these have a swinging bell.  If the bell itself is stuck, I wonder if that could trigger the overload code?

To the best of my knowledge.  The blinking cab light (1 consecutive flash) is a "motor driver stall". I've had dirty track stop an engine and cause it to throw the code.

What would be great is if a mechanical engineer or other expert from Lionel followed these recent threads related to Ed New Haven Line's Legacy 0-6-0 and my Sally the Yard Goat (which are the exact same Lionel product), started working on this troublesome tether plug and receptacle, and come up with a solution.

This reminds me of the problem MTH had with its Proto 3 B6 steam switcher and its drawbar becoming unseated in its receptacle. The solution MTH came up with was to create a little black plastic retainer that kept that drawbar fully seated while running the engine. Then, when a customer reported the problem, MTH shipped that retainer to the customer free of charge, and later included that retainer (with instructions for using it) in the locomotive box.

Also, regarding that MTH B6 problem, a customer or technician came up with another solution: place a quarter of an inch of aquarium tubing where the retainer would go, to keep the drawbar fully seated.

Another Forum friend and I both bought MTH B6 switcher, my friend told me about the acquarium tubing solution, and mailed to me a couple of inches of that l tubing

When I rec see ived it in the mail, Icut off a quarter of an inch of it and affixed it to the end of the fully seated drawbar. Since then, I've had zero problems with that terrific locomotive for the past 2 or 3 years.

Concerning the Sally the Yard Goat locomotive, I believe we are now in a similar process of coming up with a solution to its tether plug and receptacle problem.

And, I'm sure that if Lionel, like MTH, applied its expertise and resources to this problem, a simple andcrelatively inexpensive solution is bound to be discovered. Then, there will be a multitude of happy Lionel customers.

Now, for some more inspiration.

As was said by the actor, Ed Harris, who played the man in charge at mission control in one of my all time favorite movies, Apollo 13:

"Failure is not an option;" and

"This could be our finest hour."

LOL, Arnold