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In an email, I had suggested to @Miggy that some leftover wood would make a fine bumper.  He, in turn, enquired what sort of bumper design I had in mind.   Rather than explain, I figured it was easier to build and photograph one...

Materials:

1 ea) straight track, in this case O27.
2 ea) 2-56 screws and nuts
4 ea) 2-56 washers
Strip basswood (in this case, 3/8 x 3/16)

GEDC2093

Using an appropriate sized drill, drill a second hole in the tie (if needed; some tracks have two holes).

GEDC2094

Cut two pieces of wood to fit between the rails.

GEDC2095

Using the tie as a guide, cut additional lengths of wood.

GEDC2096

Clamp, drill and assemble.

GEDC2097

The finished product.

GEDC2098

This particular version is designed to stop regular rolling stock without hitting the coupler.  You can, of course, add layers to make trolley bumpers or whatever.

The design can also be adapted to pretty much any three rail track.

Approximate cost:  25¢ worth of wood and hardware.

Have fun!

Mitch

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Last edited by M. Mitchell Marmel
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Nice Mitch. I did something similar but modeled mine on the fastrack earthen bumpers. I glue them to the base board at the end of the track. All made with scraps of balsa and a few drops of yellow wood glue.

I can verify that they are approved for use with Lionel Bump and go trolleys by the National Society of silly things we do with model trains.

2020-07-19 20.29.08

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  • 2020-07-19 20.29.08
@RSJB18 posted:

Nice Mitch. I did something similar but modeled mine on the fastrack earthen bumpers. I glue them to the base board at the end of the track. All made with scraps of balsa and a few drops of yellow wood glue.

I can verify that they are approved for use with Lionel Bump and go trolleys by the National Society of silly things we do with model trains.

You must be a distant cousin of Mitch.. "Bright Minds think alike"......

beautiful modelling Mike...

There ya go!

Mitch

Totally Awesome..... that will go so well with my recently acquired Transformer and Lamp Cord Power to the track setup (so smooth, my favorite controller for applying "Vitamins" to the rails..) and this will help me with a nice Stop to keep the train off the carpet...

Next, to grab some wood scraps and get the flock off the tracks.....

ShaunGroup2

Thanks my friend......regards to Fortesque and Kitteh and Siamese...... from our motion in the yard detector Ver 3...sophia

salute

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I like.

No photos, but I have done something similar on GG track using lengths of basswood in an approximate GG "tie" size, and carpenters glue. This glue is, of course, quite strong on porous surfaces - especially wood - and seems to take the hits. My hits aren't extreme, but this is a strong connection. I glued the base tie beyond the track end, against the last tie, slid to the end, then another tie or two on top. I painted the basswood dark before I glued it down.

I like your - and my similar - setup as it uses a minimum of track length; I like some factory bumpers, but they can take up 2 - 3 inches of siding, and, as we all know, model railroading is a game of inches.

BTW, I notice that your design may have a problem with thumbtack couplers - mine did - as the tack and/or the tack shaft could hit the bumper before anything else, damaging it. I solved that by adding one more "tie", causing the knuckle to hit the bumper first. I do not prefer this solution, as it is taller and takes fractionally more track length. A gap in the ties would be better, but they were already down and I didn't want to get into it. Any more I do will have a gap, if that works out.

Perhaps go after the center of the top tie with a Dremel and an end mill?  Take half the layer off in the center or until a tack coupler clears...

Mitch

Probably what I will try when my bumpers work their way back up the layout To-Do list. These 2 bumper tracks are a bit special, anyway, as they are designed to be easily lifted out of the way to allow an access panel to be removed. So, no layout surface screws, hence the tie glue.

Nicely played.  I’ve sold lumber for a living for 31 years.  (Don’t do this), If that pile was what we can buy lumber for now, I would sell it to you a $983 and 37 cents.  Price is only good for 5 days.  Tack on a $7.50 delivery charge.  To Australia from Chicago might be a tad more.

Funny thing is, my first thought was 25 cents for your 1/48 material seemed overpriced...

Cheers,       W1

Last edited by William 1
@William 1 posted:

Nicely played.  I’ve sold lumber for a living for 31 years.  (Don’t do this), If that pile was what we can buy lumber for now, I would sell it to you a $983 and 37 cents.  Price is only good for 5 days.  Tack on a $7.50 delivery charge.  To Australia from Chicago might be a tad more.

Hee!

Funny thing is, my first thought was 25 cents for your 1/48 material seemed overpriced...

Well, that does include the hardware, wear and tear on the tools and so forth. 

Mitch

@William 1 posted:

Nicely played.  I’ve sold lumber for a living for 31 years.  (Don’t do this), If that pile was what we can buy lumber for now, I would sell it to you a $983 and 37 cents.  Price is only good for 5 days.  Tack on a $7.50 delivery charge.  To Australia from Chicago might be a tad more.

Funny thing is, my first thought was 25 cents for your 1/48 material seemed overpriced...

Cheers,       W1

Well, with that. I am going out to make some sawdust..... "LUMBER!"

I want one of These: "Papa, That's a BIG tree.."... Slow turns, I know.. right Salute

BIGtree

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  • BIGtree

Half the ‘lumber’ these days is sawdust and wood chips glued together magically somehow anyway.

I did once ship a house load of lumber to Ireland for a fine fellow.  He packed it all into a container and built himself an American style house amidst a sea of cottages.  With a sodded yard and not a single clover in his pasture of green.  Flush toilets, air conditioning, the works.  He earned it tho, came to America and went hard on the hammer.  Now he brought a slice back with him I suppose.

But, lest I digress further,  Cheers,       W1

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