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Based on my experiences last weekend, I've come up with an updated FastTrack actuator for the 3376/3386 Giraffe Car and 3424 Brakeman Car...

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I've discovered that, in running multiple 3424s over an extended period of time, the aged solenoids, while they work, require additional "loiter time" over the contact.  Accordingly, the new contact has been lengthened from 2" factory spec to a full 5" (half track length). 

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I used a hot knife to cut the slot for the giraffe actuator, rather than a cutoff wheel in a Dremel.  I may try a small endmill to cut the slot in future incarnations,

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I've also taken a trick from Harry Henning on the Tips and Tricks forum on Facebook, and bolted the contact strip directly to the ground jumper for positive ground connection...

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I've got more 1/4" brass angle on order, so, once that arrives, I'll build a non-giraffe contact and conduct some simulated field tests...

Mitch

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I've also seen coat-hanger wire used in this capacity. Don't remember where I read it, but the customizable length of such apparatus allowed the giraffes (or anything else actuated by the trackside ramp) to do their thing for as long as needed. Bend the appropriate entrance/exit ramps on each end, and anchor the ends into holes drilled into the benchwork (or roadbed).

---PCJ

I read the above coat hanger suggestion and IMMEDIATELY headed to the basement to give it a try - it works great! I really like two features of using a coat hanger in place of the 3376-105 cam actuator; #1 is price! Pretty much free compared to $24 for the genuine article in VG condition on the bay. #2 - the coat hanger has a much lower visibility factor than Lionel's original implementation - you can barely see it from a distance.

Did I mention #3? It's easily tweakable with a pair of pliers!! I read elsewhere, cautions about the eccentrics on a steamer hitting this thing, so some testing will be in order, but I'm betting that the tweakbility of the coat hanger will overcome any issues.

The only other factor is the coat hanger itself - will it hold solder? I had a bronze colored hanger that I used. I believe the bronze color was just a varnish coating on the wire. I sanded it to bare metal and applied the Weller gun (no pencils for this job, not enuff heat!) The hangar held solder quite nicely - can't say what other hangers are made of and how well they would solder up, just have to try one and see.

Here's a short video below of the completed project.

 

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GeoPeg posted:

I read the above coat hanger suggestion and IMMEDIATELY headed to the basement to give it a try - it works great! I really like two features of using a coat hanger in place of the 3376-105 cam actuator; #1 is price! Pretty much free compared to $24 for the genuine article in VG condition on the bay. #2 - the coat hanger has a much lower visibility factor than Lionel's original implementation - you can barely see it from a distance.

Did I mention #3? It's easily tweakable with a pair of pliers!! I read elsewhere, cautions about the eccentrics on a steamer hitting this thing, so some testing will be in order, but I'm betting that the tweakbility of the coat hanger will overcome any issues.

The only other factor is the coat hanger itself - will it hold solder? I had a bronze colored hanger that I used. I believe the bronze color was just a varnish coating on the wire. I sanded it to bare metal and applied the Weller gun (no pencils for this job, not enuff heat!) The hangar held solder quite nicely - can't say what other hangers are made of and how well they would solder up, just have to try one and see. 

VERY clever implementation! What Railride had in mind was actually drilling holes in the roadbed next to the track, but this seems to be quite elegant and can be moved with the track if needed!   

Here's another concept recently developed by JohnD's dad, Joe, using acrylic sheets bent to shape:  

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Once trimmed and fitted to a layout, these are REALLY invisible! 

Mitch 

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Last edited by M. Mitchell Marmel

Very clever acrylic design, and you're right - a transparent operation!!! I have never worked with acrylic, I wonder if special tools are needed? Trying to imagine how to create that nice smooth curve, hmmmm….

I used my heat gun (the kind you remove house paint with) last night to gently heat one of my very broken, orange tell-tale poles, and bend the little bits back into shape before gluing. A delicate operation indeed. Even with gentle heating, the plastic suddenly becomes quite viscous, and another half second or so of applied heat would have created an orange puddle!

I would like to hear from JohnD or Joe how he accomplished the bends in his design.

And yes, my implementation of the coat hanger cam actuator was done with carpet layouts in mind!

Last edited by GeoPeg

I make many of these for layouts I give away each year to see kids smile at an old fashioned tactile toy,  I use plain old copper house wire 12ga works best as it's a little stiff, bend it roughly the shape of the original actuator but leave the ends long (hanging down).  Drill a hole straight down through the FastTrack roadbed beside the rail about even with the ends of the ties for each wire end to poke through.  Adjust the height of the wire ends by trial and error until it works right then super glue the wire in on the bottom side of the FastTrack.  It's easier if you leave the holes a little tight so the wire barely fits, tack it from the top, recheck operation, then finish gluing it from the bottom to avoid too much glue showing on the topside.  You can make the trigger as long as you want.  They work really well and after you make one, you will know how long the vertical wire ends need to be.  I don't even paint them, the copper wire looks cool bare and is not nearly as noticeable as an original trigger.  Kids love the animated cars and it helps promote the hobby for the next generation.

Chris Sheldon

Big Jim posted:
TheTrainMain posted:

Imagine having the giraffe drop through a tunnel just in time, that'd be cool

Or how about the Polar Express Hobo ducking the tunnel!

The PE Hobo just vanishes into thin air in the movie.  I bought an add on hobo car a few years ago, but my wife was more disappointed that he didn't disappear automatically  than that his fire didn't light.  I told her he needed Jim Morrison's baby for that one.  (Bad joke, I know!)

 

Everyone has good ideas here.  The Razorback GG1 is really cool, Mitch!  I hope you find a buyer.  I'm quite strapped for cash myself, and am preparing a bunch of stuff to try peddling as well.

 

Montclaire posted:

It's pretty sad that a multi-million dollar company like Lionel makes us resort to using coat hanger scraps.  No reason they can't release an actual product to do this or an updated giraffe car more suited to Fastrack.  

Well....

http://www.lionel.com/products...eindeer-car-6-36849/

Though, from the photo, I don't see how it would work with the Fastrack...  

Mitch 

TheTrainMain posted:

Imagine having the giraffe drop through a tunnel just in time, that'd be cool

I am doing that also, no limit to how long they are when they are just a coat hanger or copper wire.  Just place vertical supports every 6" or so.  I even bent mine around curves in tunnels.

Sorry don't have a GG-1 to test it with, doubt seriously it would work with any GG-1.  I know, how can I call myself a train guy without a Postwar GG-1?  I spent all my money on dumb stuff like food and shoes for the kids.

Chris Sheldon

Big Jim posted:
TheTrainMain posted:

Imagine having the giraffe drop through a tunnel just in time, that'd be cool

Or how about the Polar Express Hobo ducking the tunnel!

That would be goofy.  

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It would be possible to kitbash a disappearing hobo, though, I'd think. Glue the hobo on the arm in place of giraffe, and put some tissue with a slit cut in it (painted to match the roof) to cover the roof opening, so the hobo would appear to disappear when it dropped down.

M. Mitchell Marmel posted:
TheTrainMain posted:

Imagine having the giraffe drop through a tunnel just in time, that'd be cool

That's actually in the works!  

Mitch 

I think Dad has that.  No need to keep the head down the entire time so long as inside the tunnel or mountain there is enough head room.  Of course, you'd put one on the way out so the illusion is that the head is ducked the entire time.

GeoPeg posted:

Whoa! It sounds like Dad was doing acrylic forming long before he did train stuff! That's a pretty healthy collection of tools and I'm certain a VERY healthy dose of skill that went into the making of that actuator! Nice job, Dad!

Well...not really...but kinda.  He's a retired mechanical engineer who spent 30 years in manufacturing designing automation machines to make lipstick and nail polish and rice. They use this stuff in safety guarding quite a bit.  He's a hands-on engineer who made friends with the guys in the shop.  He learned to use their tools and sometimes went in after hours to, uh, practice on projects for around the house.

Very neat, John!  Thank you for sharing what your dad used and how he did it!!  My dad could have been that type engineer if he had gone to college.  He was very innovative with home repairs in a 1880s house.  He was very sick after high school, then recovered only to be drafted in '52.  When he got home, he became reacquainted with Mum, married, and I was born in '56.  Now he and Mum have been in a personal care home for a year.  He has gotten used to it as best he can, and does welcome not having the responsibility for the house and looking after Mum.

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