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Being somewhat new to the forum, I appolgize if this topic has been covered before. I am currently shopping for wire to use on my "retirement layout" and have noticed there is a significant price difference between 14 gauge, 2 conductor, copper stranded and copper clad aluminum stranded wire. Any comments or observations on the pros and cons for use in track wiring for both TMCC and DCS would be welcomed. Longest run would be approximately 50 feet.

Thanks,

Chris

Last edited by Rich Melvin
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Electrical extension cords and cords for table lamps, vacuum cleaners and old computers are all made of 14 gauge copper stranded wire.  See where I'm going with this? I get all mine from the garbage (mine and that of others.)

 

Check out Home Depot when they have a sale on 100 foot contractors' extension cords. Then compare the price (there are three conductors, remember) to the price of the so-called made-for-trains stranded wire.  It's all the same stuff.

 

Aluminum wire is not less efficient for short runs, nor is it inherently dangerous, but it's definitely not copper.

Last edited by Arthur P. Bloom

Common guys, it's not a religion. Copper clad aluminum is perfectly good wire. You just have to research the specifications, cost, and understand how it fits your layout. Think about it...the engines and cars get their power thru steel rails. Talk about resistance! And understanding that, you just have to use more drops. Same with copper clad aluminum as wire.

Originally Posted by cjack:

Common guys, it's not a religion. Copper clad aluminum is perfectly good wire. You just have to research the specifications, cost, and understand how it fits your layout. Think about it...the engines and cars get their power thru steel rails. Talk about resistance! And understanding that, you just have to use more drops. Same with copper clad aluminum as wire.

Just because it is low voltage does not mean it is not problematic. I would stay away from aluminum wire,period. I agree with the previous poster,sell it for scrap.

 

Dale H

Had aluminum battery cables on a 1970's Olds.

 

Just saw an episode of This Old House where they had existing aluminum wire in a 1960's house getting a huge addition and the electrician was running copper for all new wiring. He mentioned the galvanic corrosion between copper and aluminum leading to sparking down the road and that to possibly fires. His wire nuts had some type of goop in them to prevent it I believe. Recall seeing that some switches/outlets are copper wire only. Aluminum must expand and contract much more than copper leading to loose connections?

History shows that all aluminum non-metallic sheath cable was used for home building about 1972 through 1976, mostly modular or mobile units.  You can still purchase receptacles and switches that are rated Cu/AlR for aluminum conductor/cable use.  Two problems existed.

 

First Terminations that involved both metals copper and aluminum tended to react chemically. A fair amount of this connection exist, usually where power companies (Aluminum) connect to customer service (Copper) There are special split bolt hardware assemblies that add another plated material and a spacer to separate Cu/Al connections. In addition there is a whole world of special application compression connections and tools used by the power company and commercial contractors using Aluminum conductor.

 

Second Aluminum tends to oxidize faster than copper. Aluminum oxides tend to increase resistance, and loosen terminations, causing heat/poor electrical connections. Most cases the circuit faults to open/loss of power. There are oxide inhibitors, (grease), that are used to correct this.   Proper maintenance and proper devices, aluminum non metallic sheath cable still is in use today.

 

Note that I didn't mention Copper clad (outer shell of usually a solid aluminum conductor is copper).  Intended purpose is to correct the two problems I mentioned above. Our application, train wiring, a plus would be that the outer copper shell would conduct, transmit, the RF signal much like a solid copper wire, RF signal travels on the surface of the conductor.  The aluminum core is not as good a conductor as copper. 60 hz electric or DC, 12 to 18 volts, would require (2) sizes larger conductor to do the same application. Example: Those using 18 ga. copper for track power, would need to use 16 ga. Aluminum for the same effort.  Keep in mind when you purchase aluminum conductor it needs to be (2 sizes) larger.  

Last edited by Mike CT

It's not aluminum. Its Copper Clad Aluminum. It can be soldered, crimped, and generally used the same as Copper Clad Copper except the copper wire gauge guidelines should be revised for it. Voltage has nothing to do with it. Current carrying capability is what is somewhat less.

Aluminum wire in houses is a totally different issue. The issue with 100% aluminum had to do with attaching the wire under screw terminals where the expansion rates of the wire and the screw terminal were different enough to loosen the connection over time. And by the way, home electrical devices have been redesigned because of that.

And by the way, the standard gauge recommendations will probably be revised for building wiring due to the use of switching power supplies, etc. Current from these devices require a larger gauge depending on the quantity of them in a particular building.

Facts and information are most helpful...more than "no", "yes", and "trash".

Also, it's not always obvious to know if what you are using is pure copper or copper clad aluminum. It looks just like pure copper unless you cut it and look directly at the cut end. You will see that the strands look copper, but will have a bright silvery center. That's the aluminum center.

If you have aluminum house wire, you must use devices that are compatible. Most of the devices I've seen  in home improvement stores like Lowes, and hardware stores like Ace are not compatible with aluminum wire. Last I looked, Lowes had a limited selection. (had to pick up some aluminum compatible devices for a friend)

 

There is an anti-oxidation creme that should be used on any connections or splices with aluminum wire.

 

I would leave any work with aluminum wire to pros with whom I have a history.

 

As far as wire for trains goes - I'd go the extra money for copper, just for ease of use, and not having to think about it.

Last edited by C W Burfle

Aluminum wiring was a big problem in the 70's. As previously stated the problem is connecting it to dissimilar metals resulting in loose connections over time. I remenber what my parents went thru getting it fixed. 

 

Now a days they have the copper clad aluminum and it is used in many consumer products with no issues.  It must be good otherwise they wouldn't use it, especially after the 70’s fiasco.  I believe copper clad doesn't pose any safety issues.

 

However there is one thing that gives me pause and that's the statement by a previous poster about the increased resistence of aluminum wire.  I'm certainly not qualified to talk to that issue but I would wonder if copper clad could possibily introduce any issues with DCS and such. In a perfect wiring setup they work very.  But anything less than perfect it will drive you nuts troubleshooting the issue. I'd hate to have to rewire if it does cause a problem.

 

One good source to check out for wire are the building surplus stores.  I've found some really good deals on wire from them.  But that is a hit or miss deal so you need to check periodically to catch a deal. 

 

Ed

DO NOT USE ANYTHING MADE WITH/FROM ALUMINUM!    

 

Please, allow me to ask a few questions. Are you married? Do you have any pets? Do you have any children? Do you have any grand-children? These are all reasons to NOT use aluminum wiring regardless if it's clad. How many more can you think of? There has to be reasons why it has been outlawed in so many states.

Originally Posted by cjack:

It's not aluminum. Its Copper Clad Aluminum. It can be soldered, crimped, and generally used the same as Copper Clad Copper except the copper wire gauge guidelines should be revised for it. Voltage has nothing to do with it. Current carrying capability is what is somewhat less.

Aluminum wire in houses is a totally different issue. The issue with 100% aluminum had to do with attaching the wire under screw terminals where the expansion rates of the wire and the screw terminal were different enough to loosen the connection over time. And by the way, home electrical devices have been redesigned because of that.

And by the way, the standard gauge recommendations will probably be revised for building wiring due to the use of switching power supplies, etc. Current from these devices require a larger gauge depending on the quantity of them in a particular building.

Facts and information are most helpful...more than "no", "yes", and "trash".

Also, it's not always obvious to know if what you are using is pure copper or copper clad aluminum. It looks just like pure copper unless you cut it and look directly at the cut end. You will see that the strands look copper, but will have a bright silvery center. That's the aluminum center.

A voice crying in the wilderness and no one is listening.

 

Guys, this stuff will not cause your house to burn down. The only reason I would not use it is because its much stiffer than pure copper. Its made for long straight runs. It would be a PITA trying to run it under your layout and solder or otherwise connect it to track or accessories.

 

Pete

Last edited by Norton

100% copper wire is always best!!

Aluminum wire was banned for residential use by the National Electric Code, so there must be a reason for it and there is; aluminum is a fire hazard.

 

Stranded copper works good when you need a flexible wire otherwise solid copper is lower in cost per foot.

 

If you plan to use anything other then pure copper wire you can plan on re-doing your layout wiring.

 

Lee Fritz

Nothing wrong with aluminum wire if installed properly.  That being said I would only use copper on my layout.  Just go to home depot and purchase a couple rolls.  I used 14 gauge on my layout.  I bought a roll of red for track power on one loop and a roll of orange for track power on the other loop.  I used black for the outside ground rails on both loops.  I used fastrack and installed a power drop every forth section of track.  Each drop was connected to a terminal block and the terminal blocks were connected together and connected to the TIU and transformer.  Some may say I used to many drops, but I have 10's all the way around my one scale mile loops.

I find that copper clad aluminum wire is very tough to solder for some reason.  You wouldn't think that would be, but it is.  It also has higher resistance.  I bought some cheap test leads on eBay, they were obviously not pure copper, and they have a noticeable effect on resistance readings.

 

FWIW, they still use Aluminum wire on high current runs and for the service entrance in residential wiring.  One of many cites on aluminum in current wiring.

 

Today, aluminum AA-8000 alloy is fully recognized by industry standards and is required in all aluminum building wire installed per the NEC.® This new aluminum is generally compact stranded according to ASTM B-801. Compact stranding reduces the diameter of the conductor by 9-10%. Equal ampacity AA-8000 aluminum and copper conductors can usually be installed in the same size conduit because of the compact stranding. Annex C in the 2008 NEC® includes tables for determining conduit fill when using compact stranded conductors. These tables can be used for both compact stranded aluminum and copper conductors.

Folks,

Thanks for all the replies. I must admit that the price of stranded copper clad aluminum vs. stranded solid copper is tempting (less that half) when you consider I will use several hundred feet (8 runs of 50 ft + from the terminal block, for 4 loops, not counting the numerous shorter ones) the savings could have been substantial. It was worth investigating.

 

 

However, as the general consensus in this thread has said, there is no substitute for 100% stranded copper. There obviously is a reason that aluminum has not totally replaced copper.

 

Thanks again for all who commented. The layout will use 14 gauge stranded 100% copper wire for all track feeds. Remember no matter what you do in this hobby, the important thing is to enjoy it! 

 

Chris

 

  

Originally Posted by gunrunnerjohn:

I find that copper clad aluminum wire is very tough to solder for some reason.  You wouldn't think that would be, but it is.  It also has higher resistance.  I bought some cheap test leads on eBay, they were obviously not pure copper, and they have a noticeable effect on resistance readings.

 

FWIW, they still use Aluminum wire on high current runs and for the service entrance in residential wiring.  One of many cites on aluminum in current wiring.

 

Today, aluminum AA-8000 alloy is fully recognized by industry standards and is required in all aluminum building wire installed per the NEC.® This new aluminum is generally compact stranded according to ASTM B-801. Compact stranding reduces the diameter of the conductor by 9-10%. Equal ampacity AA-8000 aluminum and copper conductors can usually be installed in the same size conduit because of the compact stranding. Annex C in the 2008 NEC® includes tables for determining conduit fill when using compact stranded conductors. These tables can be used for both compact stranded aluminum and copper conductors.

The power companies use a special grade or hybrid of aluminum mix for their wires and would not be able to be bought by the average consumer because of cost per foot.

 

Lee Fritz

Note that compact stranded is unique.  Picture a normal stranded wire with round strands, several layers  twisted/spiraled together.   Compact stranded uses a profile cross cut section of the strand than looks more like a trapezoid. The Effect, once twisted together, is more of a solid conductor that behaves/bends like a stranded conductor.   More conductor is compacted in a unit space v.s. normal stranded wire.

Last edited by Mike CT
GP 40 posted:

Folks,

Thanks for all the replies. I must admit that the price of stranded copper clad aluminum vs. stranded solid copper is tempting (less that half) when you consider I will use several hundred feet (8 runs of 50 ft + from the terminal block, for 4 loops, not counting the numerous shorter ones) the savings could have been substantial. It was worth investigating. 

  

I think that copper won. It should have - why add variables you don't need - even if cheaper?

Just as an aside - we in this hobby (and probably others) can fall into a "frugality trap". Been there, done that.

I knew a guy who had $1000 locos all over the place, but, because he did not want to buy that "overpriced O-scale ballast", he came up with some hideous concoction involving ground-up shingles or some such (which took some effort), with which he "ballasted" his track. So, he had nice equipment running on a sad-looking layout.

Cheap, though.  

D500 posted:
I knew a guy who had $1000 locos all over the place, but, because he did not want to buy that "overpriced O-scale ballast", he came up with some hideous concoction involving ground-up shingles or some such (which took some effort), with which he "ballasted" his track. So, he had nice equipment running on a sad-looking layout.

Cheap, though.  

Actually, I know a couple people that are using roofing grit for ballast, and it's not sad looking at all.  One such layout has probably 1500 feet of track, and the ballast looks great, and yep, it was a whole lot cheaper than that overpriced O-scale ballast you speak of.  No grinding of shingles needed, you can buy it in 50lb buckets at your favorite big box home improvement store.  Just because you don't approve for whatever reason, that doesn't make it a bad choice.

I think the pure copper is best. With the CCA wire you should go up a couple gauges (down in number) for the same current rating. So that will eat up some of the savings. It’s also much lighter in weight. I would say that the cost and weight savings outweigh the fact that you have to increase your gauge size for special needs, but for train layouts, I like copper.

FYI, the power companies generally use aluminum for house drops...one of those special reasons. However, here at least, they do not allow aluminum from the meter to the main panel.

Comparing copper to copper clad aluminum.  I feel we are splitting hairs too fine.  Comparing the demands of a 1:1 scale house to a scale locomotive?  I did not hear anyone say they wired their layout with gold or silver conductors.  Why not?  Both are better conductors than copper.  Consider the use of solder.  You are putting two more metals into the mix.  Do you use crimp connectors?  Add another metal mix.  Does any single wire on your layout have to carry 20, 40, or 100 amps?   Not all copper wires are created equal.  Do we then need a traceable chemical breakdown label on each roll of wire like we demand on our food?  Frequency matters.  Yes, when you get to high power and frequency.  Not until you approach VHF.   My 1500 Watt amateur radio station does not care that my 1000 foot antenna is copper clad steel.  I can bounce a signal around the earth at will.  Are your rails steel, tin, copper or stainless steel?  Why not put silver or gold there.  What is the metal composition of your wheels, axles and pick ups?    Do you also believe "Free Range" eggs taste better?

Bill,  N4GUV for fun.  Electrical engineer for money.

 

Obviously, for trains I use copper, easy choice. 

However, stranded aluminum wire is used for most 220V applications in current home wiring, at least around here.  I see it in brand new construction that is being built this year.  I believe the biggest issue was the solid aluminum wire and incompatible fixtures leading to dissimilar metal issues.  Also, the aluminum solid strand wire was much more brittle than copper and frequently was nicked and broken.

RoyBoy posted:

Do not use aluminum wire for anything. Period.

 

Any cost savings you might realize will be more than offset by problems you WILL encounter in the future.

Pay the additional cost for copper and smile.   I have copper clad in my house and it is a PITA.

  Aluminum wire for consumer use is less than intelligent.   

I would also check the flexibility of the stranded wire.  Higher quality wire uses more strands of smaller wire to get the gauge desired

  It is more flexible and easy to use, but usually more expensive.

It appears one poster is highly attracted to clad aluminum.  I wouldn't use it for anything but the recycle bin.

Last edited by aussteve

Aluminum wire will get hot under a load and it will also corrode in a moist environment like a basement and as it corrodes it will get hotter and loss it's conductivity. Aluminum wire was removed from the aviation industry years ago for those very reasons. Stick with stranded copper much better. Marty it is GREAT to see you back. Hope you continue to improve and stay positive and upbeat. 

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