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Hi all,

I was rummaging through the dead box at my buddies shop and came across the frame of a 2367, a bit more searching and I found both motors.

The horn battery had been left in it and caused severe corrosion.

I decided to give fixing it a shot. I have cleaned and removed all of the corrosion from the frame and battery housing. I will be able to replace the housing and new battery covers are not hard to find. 

My problems are

1. Fixing the corrosion. I normally would use a solder fill but I can not get any type of solder to bond. I think it’s because of the aluminum alloy that was used in the frame. I can get it got enough to flow but it will not stick. My other thought is I’m just not using the right solder or flux combo. I am not adverse to using another filler but I have little experience with them other than JB weld. any Ideas would be greatly appreciated.

The next is the shell. I don’t have one. I know this is a 1955 and I prob won’t be able to find an old one. The new ones and reproduce I have seen are all different. Some have hand rails at the doors, others have vents on top, some have portholes the have a lens others are solid. I don’t even know what to look for.

Please point me in the right direction

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Chuck is absolutely correct. You’ll never get solder to stick. If you really want to clean up the corroded areas, you can use automotive grade body filler. First , you’ll need to remove any traces of solder and flux that did manage to stick. If the frame is that bad anyways, go ahead and glass bead or strip all the paint off, start with a clean slate. Knock down heavy corrosion with a dremel with a drum sander, being careful around cast in details if on the outside. I use Evercoat Lightweight filler, it sands really easy and wipes on smooth. I only use a thin coat just to level. Buy a cheap 75 cent spreader and cut it with scissors to make small spreaders to work in the areas you want. Trick is don’t glob it on and lose track of the areas you're covering. ....you can get a small can of filler relatively inexpensive......if you keep thecfan sealed and indoors, it’ll last a couple years...finish sand with 600 or finer, prime and paint as desired. Shells are readily available on the bay....I’ve seen two types, with or with out porthole windows....I reckon that’ll boil down to personal preference...the postwar had no windows as far as I remember.....both the repro shells I’ve seen had leuvered vents, not screen mesh....hope that helps............Pat

Can you post a picture of the frame?

I would also recommend going to automotive body filler route. It'll stick and smooth out easily. Don't use the fiberglass reinforced kind. It's much too difficult to smooth out for something this small.

As far as shells get whichever shell you like best. This locomotive is a basket case (literally) so it has no real collector value. It's a runner, which is great for an operator.

Lou1985 posted:

Can you post a picture of the frame?

I would also recommend going to automotive body filler route. It'll stick and smooth out easily. Don't use the fiberglass reinforced kind. It's much too difficult to smooth out for something this small.

As far as shells get whichever shell you like best. This locomotive is a basket case (literally) so it has no real collector value. It's a runner, which is great for an operator.

Sure, I have looked at some of the model fillers And they cost as much for a small tube as a light body filler does for a gallon04B05573-1EA7-430D-8669-0FAF48F445EAD31A7FFB-9E89-4AC9-BDC4-02B49936F0C48A6F3E4A-2058-4438-AD87-335F99679EB0DBDBC0F9-5143-4282-BE64-08CD0F74B580

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  • 04B05573-1EA7-430D-8669-0FAF48F445EA
  • D31A7FFB-9E89-4AC9-BDC4-02B49936F0C4
  • 8A6F3E4A-2058-4438-AD87-335F99679EB0
  • DBDBC0F9-5143-4282-BE64-08CD0F74B580
WF wilson posted:
Lou1985 posted:

Can you post a picture of the frame?

I would also recommend going to automotive body filler route. It'll stick and smooth out easily. Don't use the fiberglass reinforced kind. It's much too difficult to smooth out for something this small.

As far as shells get whichever shell you like best. This locomotive is a basket case (literally) so it has no real collector value. It's a runner, which is great for an operator.

Sure, I have looked at some of the model fillers And they cost as much for a small tube as a light body filler does for a gallon04B05573-1EA7-430D-8669-0FAF48F445EAD31A7FFB-9E89-4AC9-BDC4-02B49936F0C48A6F3E4A-2058-4438-AD87-335F99679EB0DBDBC0F9-5143-4282-BE64-08CD0F74B580

That's not bad at all. A little automotive body filler on the outside (wouldn't even bother to use it on the inside, you can't see it) and some sanding and it'll be like new.

WF wilson posted:
Lou1985 posted:

Can you post a picture of the frame?

I would also recommend going to automotive body filler route. It'll stick and smooth out easily. Don't use the fiberglass reinforced kind. It's much too difficult to smooth out for something this small.

As far as shells get whichever shell you like best. This locomotive is a basket case (literally) so it has no real collector value. It's a runner, which is great for an operator.

Sure, I have looked at some of the model fillers And they cost as much for a small tube as a light body filler does for a gallon04B05573-1EA7-430D-8669-0FAF48F445EAD31A7FFB-9E89-4AC9-BDC4-02B49936F0C48A6F3E4A-2058-4438-AD87-335F99679EB0DBDBC0F9-5143-4282-BE64-08CD0F74B580

I can’t say I’ve fixed worse, as this usually the same damage I’ve seen a dozen or so times....perfect candidate to make a solid runner...whip up a batch of filler and start sculpting....you’ll probably lose the lettering under the frame, but heck, it’s half ablitteraded anyways....fill it in, smooth it out, get you a shell and enjoy it....Pat

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