Weaver paint/color question

Is this a prototype model or a custom run ?   Tough looking at internet pictures and especially yellow. Looks like maybe Union Pacific yellow. A Google search. May bring up a color chart.  Even if you come up with the color. Trying to find it may be a bit of work. There is no new stock of Scalecoat paint.

You might think of doing what I ended up doing. I purchased a pair of American Models SD 60s that had been dropped and badly damaged. I did the repairs and reconstructed both ends of the engines. I purchased three paints from different manufacturers that supposedly matched the UP yellow but none of them did. At the suggestion of Ed from Gold in Hands l went to the Home Depot store and had them match the color, it was spot on, perfect. I then purchased one of the paint sample jars of the color, which is a latex but, with very careful application it is very difficult to see where the repair was done.

Ray

Hello all,

Does anyone have recommendations for a clear coat compatible with Weaver models? I'm looking to add decals to an undecorated Baldwin 2-8-0 (Now the Atlas O Premier 2-8-0) and looking for a clear coat to protect the decals but not damage the existing finish on the model, your feedback is greatly appreciated. Seems like this is the appropriate form to ask.

Thank you

Peter

@Peter B posted:

Hello all,

Does anyone have recommendations for a clear coat compatible with Weaver models? I'm looking to add decals to an undecorated Baldwin 2-8-0 (Now the Atlas O Premier 2-8-0) and looking for a clear coat to protect the decals but not damage the existing finish on the model, your feedback is greatly appreciated. Seems like this is the appropriate form to ask.

Thank you

Peter

You’ll be hard pressed to damage the existing finish, but some precautions need to be taken for any top coat to adhere to the existing finish. The trick is longevity.  I’ve been down this rabbit hole many a time, and have had to repair other people’s previous attempts to decal existing finish locomotives with applied decals, and then topcoated with Testor’s Dullcoat, Krylon satin clear, etc, etc, etc, …..the problem is, flaking off flat, or satin clears, leaving unsightly spots on your model. I don’t even use water slide decals anymore, and opt for razor thin aggressive vinyl, that requires no top coating, and gives the look of factory applied pad printing. However, when using water slide over an existing satin or flat finish, I would prepare the surface by washing the shell in hot soapy water, removing all loose dust, grease, oils, hand prints, etc, …you could use a mild abrasive in a paste form such as Ajax, etc, and gently scrub the shell to lightly scuff the surface to apply a top coat. …next, you’ll want a gloss surface to apply your decals to……use a gloss clear just on those areas,….( I’m assuming cab sides, tender sides, etc, ) allow this to cure overnight and apply your decals, then you can top coat the entire model with whatever satin of flat finish you desire. Krylon satin clear, Testor’s Dullcoat, or SEM’s Matte finish……if I had to do a water slide decal job, these are the steps I’d take ……by scuffing the existing finish, you’ve given a place for the new top coat to bite and hold onto…..otherwise, 6 weeks, a month later, she’ll peel away like an ugly scab…..

Pat

@harmonyards posted:

You’ll be hard pressed to damage the existing finish, but some precautions need to be taken for any top coat to adhere to the existing finish. The trick is longevity.  I’ve been down this rabbit hole many a time, and have had to repair other people’s previous attempts to decal existing finish locomotives with applied decals, and then topcoated with Testor’s Dullcoat, Krylon satin clear, etc, etc, etc, …..the problem is, flaking off flat, or satin clears, leaving unsightly spots on your model. I don’t even use water slide decals anymore, and opt for razor thin aggressive vinyl, that requires no top coating, and gives the look of factory applied pad printing. However, when using water slide over an existing satin or flat finish, I would prepare the surface by washing the shell in hot soapy water, removing all loose dust, grease, oils, hand prints, etc, …you could use a mild abrasive in a paste form such as Ajax, etc, and gently scrub the shell to lightly scuff the surface to apply a top coat. …next, you’ll want a gloss surface to apply your decals to……use a gloss clear just on those areas,….( I’m assuming cab sides, tender sides, etc, ) allow this to cure overnight and apply your decals, then you can top coat the entire model with whatever satin of flat finish you desire. Krylon satin clear, Testor’s Dullcoat, or SEM’s Matte finish……if I had to do a water slide decal job, these are the steps I’d take ……by scuffing the existing finish, you’ve given a place for the new top coat to bite and hold onto…..otherwise, 6 weeks, a month later, she’ll peel away like an ugly scab…..

Pat

Pat,

Thank you for your input, I've also heard the horror stories of decal projects going south for issues with clear coats like you described. Since you mentioned it, what brand of vinyl would you recommend for a project like this? You are correct in assuming the new decals will be placed on the cab and tender sides when done.

Thanks again,

Peter