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This didn't happen today but last week. Dad needed another bridge to span across the walk way on his new layout for the commuter line. He said, "Let's get out the Erector sets and build one." Using a plan in the erector books we built a "rolling lift bridge." He did get it working this week with one of the erector motors. I know this is something different from O gauge (it's actually Gilbert of course) but I thought y'all might like seeing it. Happy railroading and happy new year!

This is awesome! Thanks for sharing.

@chris a posted:

Progress continues on the Pennsy Block Walls  -   I think I have gotten the new walls as close to matching the existing walls.  I'll have to wait till the acrylic washes completely dry, but it's "close enough"...



Also weathered 1 of 2 arch viaducts.   Kind of wish I had done them both, so tonight I primed the second one and will weather it while I have all the same colors out.   



Chris,

I really like how you save instructions so you can repeat the process at a later date. The retaining walls look good. I like how they enhance the scene but not take away from it because of your color choices. It's nice to have available real estate. I'm sure you'll come up with something great for that area.

Dave

Whilst knocking about eBay in search of a Vulcan switcher shell, I recalled I had a couple of junk switchers knocking about the living room.  So, a bit of drilling and milling later, this former L.A.S.E.R. shell (my guess, based on the interior chrome plating) now adorns the Vulcan chassis... 

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End rails are on order from Trainz.  Those are LED markers, as yet unhooked-up. 

In addition, I got an email from my client, who is still enjoying the American Flyer trains I restomodded for her last year...

Mitch

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@Seth Thomas posted:

@Mark Boyce

I should have an Erector motor if you need one.

My Erector story goes at my grandparents winter visit with my red metal Erector box in arm I had a bad fall across the hot metal floor furnace and all the nuts bolts washers and smaller girders ended up in the bottom of the gas furnace. On my arms and Hands I had the burn scars for the longest time. But those scares never hurt as much as the loss of my Erector pieces….

@Berkshirelover726 very nice bridge by you and father.

John, Thank you very much for the offer.  I really have nothing in mind for the Erector set other than as a keepsake, so to speak.  I have no idea which set I had, but this one just seemed like I should get it.  Wow, that was a really bad accident you had with your set!!!

Chris, the coloring and weathering on your stone walls looks great like your earlier work!

Jrstengel, your tunnel portal looks great too!

Mitch, the scrounger comes through again! 

@Mayor Magoo posted:

Happy New Year to all!

Had some time off during the holidays so was able to get some train work/play in.  Besides running trains --Added figures, street lights and trees.

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Great pics Mayor MaGoo.

Here is a pic of my utility pole worker. I made him from a common Plasticville citizen, a gas station worker if I recall, and a loose small rubber band.

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@Seth Thomas posted:

@jrstengel

Morning!

Last January  I paid lots of $ for three single portals to make a double.  I truly love your hand made double portal.  
After  I enlarged your photo I still think it’s great 😊

John

I had a similiar dilemma with double portals, so I  decided to make my own with foam and small rocks from underneath the deck.  It's not a work of art, but it's functional

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I've been busy on the layout for the past week or so.

I started by making and adding railings to a "floating" piece of track between a small mountain and the viaduct:

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This made an earlier railed section of track look shabby - so I redid it:

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If you like the way these railed sections look, I updated my early (8/13/21) Blog post on www.Warrenvillerailroad.com to include a "How To" with several follow along pics. This post is entitled "Avoiding the Floating Track Look" - check it out.

After seeing how these two sections turned out, I no longer liked the way a railed section of elevated track in front of Cape Warrenaveral and Main Street looked, so I removed it to re-do it.  BUT, when I took it down I liked the unobstructed look without this section of track so I decided not to put it back at all. This resulted in track and trestle work. Here is a pic of an added Arch Under bridge needed to support some of the new track work.

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It also resulted in me completely re-doing Main Street as it looked shabby too. Here is the new wide open view:

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@Seth Thomas posted:

@jrstengel

Morning!

Last January  I paid lots of $ for three single portals to make a double.  I truly love your hand made double portal.  
After  I enlarged your photo I still think it’s great 😊

John

@Seth Thomas

Thank you! I am learning a lot as I go. I have another one to make for the back side so I should be able to apply what I have learned so far and make some improvements. Tough learning a new skill at 68.



This didn't happen today but last week. Dad needed another bridge to span across the walk way on his new layout for the commuter line. He said, "Let's get out the Erector sets and build one." Using a plan in the erector books we built a "rolling lift bridge." He did get it working this week with one of the erector motors. I know this is something different from O gauge (it's actually Gilbert of course) but I thought y'all might like seeing it. Happy railroading and happy new year!

Berkshirelover726,

Thanks for sharing this project and great pics - the smile on your Dad's face says it all.

The Gilbert Erector set i had as a youngin' was one of my favorite toys - the only one that I still have. 4 more boxed sets have been added over the last several years - still fun and challenging.

When initially building my RR I used my stash  of #6 turnouts which are usually fine in most places.  However the more I ran trains of 80' passenger cars through the medium switches the more the angular appearance at the coupling bothered me.

So, where I had the space, I just finished replacing twenty one of #6 mainline tangent switches with #8 and #10 tangent and curved switches.  What a difference when I run  a train of 80 footers through the longer turnouts.

Gotta see where else I can squeeze in some of the larger switches.  Those gentle switches help to project the serpentine appearance of scale length passenger trains.  I still have a dozen or so of #6 mainline switches in tight or out of the way areas that will remain.

When planing a RR with long cars, consider looking to see where you can use # 8's or #10's.  They really help to develop the prototypical "look".   Especially up front n' center.

The original intention of this pike was multiple branch lines where #6's were fine.  However with the addition of a couple of name trains that I just could not resist,  those turnouts wore out their welcome.

Last edited by Tom Tee

Tom Tee, congratulations on the extensive changeouts you completed. Perhaps you and some other folks can provide some guidance. On my layout I’m using O tubular. Prior to starting this project I purchased some gorgeous 18” passenger cars. After I set up a test loop I found that the cars did not get along with the O22 turnouts. The overhang looked horrible and they derailed after coming in contact with the lantern. I don’t understand the  switch numbers you mention; nor how much space they save/use. I have been looking at the Ross Switches website but so many indicate “image not available “. Any guidance this group can provide as to what will work with tubular will be greatly appreciated.

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