More grass!
Don't know how people make layouts these days, nothing is available. No Trax, scenic express tree leaves, gas pumps and the list goes on... Just cant find anything it seems. Lucky Hays wheel stops are still available. End of an era I guess? Went to the Depot and Lowes for a wallpaper brush, they don't carry them. Ace hardware only. Go figure??? 
Well sometimes logical thinking does not work out. In the case of LEDs a little extra voltage results in a LOT of extra current. Inside an LED this generates excessive heat, which is what burns out the LED. A half volt can make a big difference. I've read several people talking about using voltage regulators to guard against variations in voltage. This basically means if a typical wall wart sees a voltage spike from your power company it may output a slightly higher voltage which can be a killer for LEDs. Once they are overpowered the damage is done.
Yes I often use wall warts for LED lighting purposes. But this is making me rethink using the conditioned DC power supply I bought a long time ago. The alternative is to use the buck converter.
LED voltage vs amp curve and explanation
@p51 posted:Sitting in my work chair and rotating around without getting out, this is what I see:
Are you hiring?????? 🤣🤣
@ScoutingDad posted:Well sometimes logical thinking does not work out. In the case of LEDs a little extra voltage results in a LOT of extra current. Inside an LED this generates excessive heat, which is what burns out the LED. A half volt can make a big difference. I've read several people talking about using voltage regulators to guard against variations in voltage. This basically means if a typical wall wart sees a voltage spike from your power company it may output a slightly higher voltage which can be a killer for LEDs. Once they are overpowered the damage is done.
Yes I often use wall warts for LED lighting purposes. But this is making me rethink using the conditioned DC power supply I bought a long time ago. The alternative is to use the buck converter.
LED voltage vs amp curve and explanation
Coming from the high voltage world, a volt or 10 doesn't make a big difference. At 4v, even .25 more is a big deal.
Added the WS figures I got last week and the Lionel hobo sounds box car(which is awesome) that came today.
Gene
@RSJB18 posted:Are you hiring?????? 🤣🤣
I work remotely, ever since 2020. I'd been in another room and my wife (who does the same thing for the same company) booted me out of that bedroom for my train room. I had to move a great deal of stuff out of the closet to fit a small table as a desk for my computer. I didn't like it at first but it soon grew on me.
@p51 posted:I work remotely, ever since 2020. I'd been in another room and my wife (who does the same thing for the same company) booted me out of that bedroom for my train room. I had to move a great deal of stuff out of the closet to fit a small table as a desk for my computer. I didn't like it at first but it soon grew on me.
I don't work from home.....actually hate it. I'm still a get up and go to work type......just how I'm wired. I run the Facilities Management department for a mid-size university. Kind of hard to do my job from home as is. It's a nice option from time to time instead of using a sick day.
My "office" at home is in my basement right next to the layout. I used to enjoy running a couple trains while going through the mail and paying bills ( the train part, not the bill part). My son has since commandeered the space for his Xbox gaming lair. The layout is still there, I just don't have the space to spread out like I used to.
Bob
@DrSteveDC posted:Got a lot done today. Sandy Acres control panel has been numbered and the legend is in place. Wired the front half of the industrial park to the switches. The road crew is not making much headway. The loggers are hard at work while the hobos play checkers and warm up their soup over the fire. The track gang is working hard, they are expecting completion of the spur in a few months. The townsfolk are enjoying a game of mini-golf.
Great action pieces Steve. 
I especially like the road crew and the rail crew. Nice.
@ScoutingDad posted:Well sometimes logical thinking does not work out. In the case of LEDs a little extra voltage results in a LOT of extra current. Inside an LED this generates excessive heat, which is what burns out the LED. A half volt can make a big difference. I've read several people talking about using voltage regulators to guard against variations in voltage. This basically means if a typical wall wart sees a voltage spike from your power company it may output a slightly higher voltage which can be a killer for LEDs. Once they are overpowered the damage is done.
Mmm, not "logical thinking" but rather experience and experimentation: of the four LEDs in the van and the twenty-three or so in the lighted billboard, none burned out when connected directly to the 5 volt PS, nor when I was experimenting with the resistors, nor after I had wired the resistors in series to reduce the voltage and for the several months they have been on the layout since, until I noticed it yesterday. Given another responder's experience with the Menard products (4 out of 5 failing, even when using an 'official' PS), I suspect the issue has more to do with the build quality than the PS voltage per se.
Aside from that, I did get a chance today to take the van apart, after confirming that the headlights still did not work even when hooked to an 'official' PS. No apparent wiring problems, both resistors (one for the headlights and one for the tail lights) appeared to be fine (both tested at approximately 16 ohms), and when I connected the 3 volt output from a buck converter, the headlight LEDs still failed to light, whether powered directly or through the resistor. So, regardless of the source of damage, it seems I do indeed have a pair of bum LEDs.
Next question: what's the best way to replace them? It appears they are each held in place with a folded-over metal tab -- can I just bend the tabs out of the way, replace the LEDs, then bend them back, or is there some other trick I'm missing? 
Afternoon/evening guys I hope you all had a productive day! 
Yes just running trains count! LOL
@Steve Tyler Steve either way I hope you figure out what the problem is so it will be easy to prevent it from happening again!
@SIRT The diorama with the extra grass sure is looking awesome! I haven't been shopping for much lately except track, but I can see it for other things in life!
@p51 Lee you could always thank the wife for the new office idea! I would love something like that if I was working, but I would find myself running trains! LOL
@Genemed Gene your new people sure help bring your layout to life. Looks great!
Well guys I didn't get much cleaning in the train room today, but I did get all the switch motors installed and wire harnesses dropped threw the top of the table.
Now I have a question for you guys, my last layout I had a control panel that had all the toggle switches to turn the switched. This time around I am thinking about putting the toggle switches on the facia board as close to the switch as I can, so it makes me more interactive with the layout running!
I am just wondering what you guys think?
Hope you all have a great night and don't get too much snow!
@mike g. posted:Now I have a question for you guys, my last layout I had a control panel that had all the toggle switches to turn the switched. This time around I am thinking about putting the toggle switches on the facia board as close to the switch as I can, so it makes me more interactive with the layout running!I am just wondering what you guys think?
Well, I only have two switches on my current layout, and four tops on any prior configuration, so I'm probably not the best to ask, but I'd say unless you can move *very* quickly, or have such a simple design you can operate all your switches independently, you might be creating a serious problem, especially if you need to operate several switches in timely sequence to keep the trains running smoothly.
Also, ISTM moving the switch operation to remote locations just invites little visitors to experiment all around your layout: "Hey, what does *this* do?" 
OTOH, grouping all the switch controls centrally makes it a lot easier to be sure nothing goes awry, and that everything is set the way you need it to be.
Mike I assume you do not mean "toggle" switches. Switch machines generally need momentary contact. I can see an argument for both cases. If I was doing a switching exercise I would want to be close to the turnout operators or even run them manually (unless you have them wired to an app and can control from a handheld), other wise if running in circles I would want all my turnout operators close to a central location where I manage my empire. So I guess I've said the same thing as @Steve Tyler except I do not know what ISTM means.
Mike- I'd use a central location for mainline turnouts and ground throws or powered momentary switches at yards and local industries.
Best of both, secure mainline routing and hands on for switching jobs.
Bob
@ScoutingDad posted:So I guess I've said the same thing as @Steve Tyler except I do not know what ISTM means.
It Seems To Me . . .
FWIW (For What It's Worth), if you google any given acronym plus "definition", 99+% of the time the unknown term's definition will pop up. You're welcome . . . 
Good Evening Guys and Gals,
Here's another completed DD building for the new small town on the layout. It's called Skid Row Part Three. Click on my YouTube link below to see the build.
Dave
@mike g. posted:Afternoon/evening guys I hope you all had a productive day!
Well guys I didn't get much cleaning in the train room today, but I did get all the switch motors installed and wire harnesses dropped threw the top of the table.
Now I have a question for you guys, my last layout I had a control panel that had all the toggle switches to turn the switched. This time around I am thinking about putting the toggle switches on the facia board as close to the switch as I can, so it makes me more interactive with the layout running!
I am just wondering what you guys think?
Hope you all have a great night and don't get too much snow!
Mike, on my Plan D layout, I mounted the Dz1000 push buttons on the facia and liked it on the side of the layout that had only 3 switches. On the other side of the layout, with the engine service area on the level above the little yard, I got totally confused, even though every push button was labeled. Now that I am changing the track around to Plan E, I am rethinking it. I am thinking of making at least two panels like yours with the track plan, one for each end of the layout. Also like Jeff suggested, I am using manual throws on all the switches near the ‘aisle’ that will be for yard activity.
Dave, Outstanding work on the DD Kit...
Mike G: I chose the local small control panels near where I would be controlling switches, I figure I have to be there to switch cars, or move engines in and out of the service yard, but it's personal preference. I also decided to make all the panels open on hinges so I could access the wiring easily without under. It actually made it much easier, as I built and assembled the panels on the work bench then just terminated all the connections through labeled terminal strips. I haven't had many gremlin issues, but it sure is nice to sit on a chair with a volt meter, swing the control panel open and check things out. I used Red Auto Pin Striping over Satin Black paint.
@chris a posted:Mike G: I chose the local small control panels near where I would be controlling switches, I figure I have to be there to switch cars, or move engines in and out of the service yard, but it's personal preference. I also decided to make all the panels open on hinges so I could access the wiring easily without under. It actually made it much easier, as I built and assembled the panels on the work bench then just terminated all the connections through labeled terminal strips. I haven't had many gremlin issues, but it sure is nice to sit on a chair with a volt meter, swing the control panel open and check things out. I used Red Auto Pin Striping over Satin Black paint.
Outstanding idea Chris . I've not seen this type of panel on the forum before. Realy nice
Hi guys I hope your not getting snow like I am here, it is already over a foot deep and still going! LOL
Well first off I want to thank you all for your input about a control panel or not. @ScoutingDad Jeff you are correct I have a bunch of momentary switches that look like toggle's
@chris a Chris I like your little control panels and think that will be the way I will go. Most of my switches are on the straight section, then the lower staging yard and last but not least the 4 to the right of the layout for both the main and upper loops. So, I think one for each section makes more sense than one big one like I had before. I think I have enough plexi glass left over to make 3 of them!
Here is a photo of my old control panel.
@luvindemtrains Dave your building skills are just amazing, I love the work on the new building! I can see that Superman approves!
Regarding small local control panels, I couldn't find these photos last night, but here's one more variation. In front of my lower level MTH passenger station, I needed a panel, but as it's the center of the layout, and I take a bunch of photos and videos here, I didn't want the control panel showing. So, I built a simple slide drawer, no fancy drawer slides, just wood construction. The panel hinges up when the drawer is open if I need to get in there to work. It's worked out great and doesn't detract from the scenery. As there are 8 switches in the steam engine service facility I added small "wire labels" to both the switch machines and matching push buttons, so I don't throw the wrong switch.
Other item to note, the 8 switches for the engine facility is on the upper level, the diamond crossover in the lower right is actually on the lower level where the station is located. Note that all 4 switches for the crossover are wired through (1) switch machine pushbutton controller, keeps things much simpler as I rarely run through the double crossover, and don't need it to be confusing...No need for (2) different panels IMHO...
The last photo kind of shows the upper level above the station, those 8 switches result in 7 tracks in the steam engine service yard/facility and also merge (2) different "Arrival/Departure" tracks from the freight yard back onto the main line. Yes if your a "switch counter", I think I have two manual ground throws not shown on the diagram, and directional crossover on the main line is one switch machine controlling both of the crossover switches.
Chris that is a great idea! Where did you get the green and red led indicator switches. I always have a hard time remembering what direction the switch is thrown when I can't see the switch.
Chris, the panels look great and don’t detract from the scenery! I think I will do something similar, although it will be on a smaller scale.
Mike, those panel pushbutton switches are unique to DZ switch machines, both the DZ1000 and DZ2500. I don't know anything about how the stock MTH switch machines work and whether these switches or LED's could be added. I have about 10 switches on the layout with Tortoise switch machines, and there's a way to wire red/green or bi-polor single led that will either turn red or green depending on the polarity it's seeing. What are you using for switch machines ?
Hi Chris, I am using MTH stock switch machines with momentary toggles. I had a couple tortious machines, but either didn't install them correctly or something, I just did like how they worked.
So, back to questions about the Crossing Signal which was built up using the MTH Cantilever flashing crossing lights, along with an NJ International Brass Crossing gate - Don't want to write a book here....
It's an involved project. I used a Tortoise switch machine along with a Tortoise accessory bracket that enabled me to mount the machine on it's side and create vertical up and down motion. Don't have a part number for that bracket, I got a few of them with switch machines bought on eBay. Anyway, I used the DZ 1070 Infra--Red Train Detector, and also had to add the DZ1008 Relay according to Dennis Zander, owner DZ products. To make the Tortoise activate I used another DPDT relay to switch DC polarity, + polarity drives it one direction, reverse the polarity and it switches the other direction.
So kind of the labor man's description of what's going on in the not so pretty schematic below. The DZ1070 and DZ1008 are powered by 12 VAC power, the output of the detector triggers the DZ1008 relay through the White Wire which is hooked to the input of the 1008 relay. When the detector sees the train, the DZ1008 puts out a 12 VDC signal, as I am supplying 12 VDC to the Blue Wire (Relay Common on DZ1008), which is used directly to power the LED lights on the MTH Signal, and also used to close the solenoid coil on the 2nd DPDT additional relay. By energizing this second relay, that is what switches the polarity and lowers the gate. This is accomplished by cross connecting the NO and NC contacts with 12 VDC and Ground, then the relay Common contacts receive normal or reverse polarity (think of it as +12VDC, or -12VDC)
Once the train passes and a 5 second delay happens, the DZ1070 drops the signal which drops the 12 VDC signal going out, hence the lights stop blinking the gate returns to the up position.
Yes I know the difference between DC Ground and AC common, on my layout they are tied together to make the 22 B&O signal heads all work correctly. Hence the dual labeling on the schematic GRND and COMMON.
Wow so much completed on the layout but you can’t even tell. All 18 switches wired to the main console. I decided to wire them all in pairs because they all work together that way. If I wired them independently I would have to switch two if I switched one. The power drops are all completed and I used the method of drilling a small 5/64 hole in the track and inserting the wire and running a tiny screw through the hole. That is a great method because it eliminates the wires from showing at all. There is only one place on the layout that I actually decided to use the atlas power track in lieu of the above method but only because as @gunrunnerjohn suggested there is never enough space between the two tables no matter how big the access hole is. Headed to run trains all weekend with my club up in Monroe Washington at the train show there.
When I get back from the show I will be hooking up all the transformers and controllers and then I will be able to run trains again! Hopefully if all goes well I will be able to run four trains at the same time. 
@OhB1 posted:Wow so much completed on the layout but you can’t even tell. All 18 switches wired to the main console. I decided to wire them all in pairs because they all work together that way. If I wired them independently I would have to switch two if I switched one. The power drops are all completed and I used the method of drilling a small 5/64 hole in the track and inserting the wire and running a tiny screw through the hole. That is a great method because it eliminates the wires from showing at all. There is only one place on the layout that I actually decided to use the atlas power track in lieu of the above method but only because as @gunrunnerjohn suggested there is never enough space between the two tables no matter how big the access hole is. Headed to run trains all weekend with my club up in Monroe Washington at the train show there.
When I get back from the show I will be hooking up all the transformers and controllers and then I will be able to run trains again! Hopefully if all goes well I will be able to run four trains at the same time.
Cruising right along. 
Watching for the inaugural video.
Finished the removable wood deck project for my bulkhead flat cars and added the tractors with chock blocks and chains.
Gene
OhB1 congratulations on the completion of a time consuming job that you don’t get nearly enough credit for. 18 turnouts wired and working is a big job.
Genemed nice work on the bulkhead flats. The tractors show up nicely and the deck, tractors, chocks, and chains, are quite realistic.
Here things continue to move along and, like so many projects, progress made doesn’t appear to be very time consuming. It represents 15-20 hours work. Three tunnels have been installed, retaining walls are in place in all but one area and the right side except for ballast is ready for the Scenic Director.
One tunnel leaks light and we have to determine if we want to extend it or not. We have shelves to install that may block the light and black curtains are planned in open areas around the edges that will definitely block it.
View from middle of right side toward front tunnel. A Big Boy and N & W J used to check clearances are sitting in the tunnel.
Open space around the tunnel portal should be closed tomorrow.
Q
Front right side toward rear
Right rear corner awaiting tunnel install/retaining wall looking toward front. Empty space awaits Scenic Director. She will likely use some of her recent purchases from Don Jones.
Bill, you keep on keepin’ on. The wainscoting, molding, and floors are very classy. Looks great.
Jay
Finished a repaint today.
The inspiration, a picture I took in Dewitt NY in the mid 70's.
My model.
@SIRT posted:Joeys back drop install... Tracksidescenery.com
More to do yet, having a GREAT time.
I learned a few things since the last 20 + year old lalayout.
Looks great Steve. We bought a co-op apartment on the north side of the Farmingdale station after I got married.
Love that flip sign. Still have less than fond memories of standing in Penn Station waiting for my train to come up on that big flip board....
Bob
@Bill Webb Genemed nice work on the bulkhead flats. The tractors show up nicely and the deck, tractors, chocks, and chains, are quite realistic.
Thanks Bill, working with the chains and rings can definitely test your patience.
Gene
@ENichter posted:placed a police car and ambulanveWho makes the vehicles or did you do it yourself? Looks great.
Picked them up at a train show, Jack Pearce is out of Canada. phone 705-835-2202.
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