What did you do on your layout today?

@J.Dooley posted:

Will do. I don't have a LOT of issue with the more permanent nature of it, because I don't feel like the track would survive well enough to be reusable. If the track isn't going to make it regardless, I say turn it into concrete. Glue is cheap.

But I'll give it a shot and let you know.

Hi just thought I would throw my 2 cents in the pot. I just took down my old layout and I used 50/50 water and white glue. Once I removed the screws the track popped right up, granted it was a chore cleaning the track. It can be done so you can save and reuse your track, on top of that if you clean all the used ballast in soap and water in a 5 gallon bucket and rinse several time, the dry it in a cheap aluminum pan for like $1 or 2 preferably on the BBQ outside so the wife or hubby will still love you!

@J.Dooley posted:

It was indeed. Here's the video, that's a wonderful site for scenery ideas! Thanks for telling me about it.

https://www.bouldercreekrailro...del-railroad-scenery

I have seen other Luke Towan videos.  He is really talented and helpful!

That's a good video, I know I have seen some of his videos also, great teacher!

Finished installing  scratch built block detection signals.

@Oldegreybeard posted:

Finished installing  scratch built block detection signals.

Nice work!

@Oldegreybeard posted:

Finished installing  scratch built block detection signals.

Pretty neat!

@mike g. posted:

Nice work!

Thanks

Working in photo shop software on a mini-scene for the backdrop on the south end of the town of Ozarka on my HO scale Kansas City & Gulf "Ozark Subdivision" layout.

So far there are three different photos elements that's been used to create it to this state...

I really enjoy creating scenes like this in my photo software for use on my layout.

Andre

Andre that looks impressive. I don’t know anything about photoshop; please explain about the photo elements you mentioned. Have you done anything in O scale?

Thanks,

Jay

@Oldegreybeard posted:

Finished installing  scratch built block detection signals.

Please share the recipe, and details, for this scratch built delight.

Thanks,

Jay

Late to the table with this but I used diluted artists matte medium for ballasting. Taking down the layout now and it basically peels of the track and a putty knife easily removes it from the table. No problems with it staying in place. It is also water soluble for any difficult pieces stuck to the track.

@chris a posted:.    During Christmas 2021,  my son shot and edited a Layout Tour Video where I move around the layout and discuss the layout design and then he edited it all together.    If you want to check that out, here's a link.    I will probably update it when the industrial district is complete later this year.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C_11HRZciRU&t=1s

WOW! Very nice layout and a perfect video of the whole operation. Your son did a great job with the video. Steady camera work, holding position for a long period so we can actually see everything compared to most videos now that are rapid fire cut scenes. However, the short tease of the CA Zephyr did leave me shouting at the screen for more! 😜

All jokes aside, you have a very week thought out layout and I am looking forward to the next video update.

Thanks for posting the link!!

@Tranquil Hollow RR posted:

Please share the recipe, and details, for this scratch built delight.

Thanks,

Jay

I examined older signals from the early 20th century and developed a semi-scale design that I believed would meet my needs. After drafting the design in CAD, I utilized Lightburn software to cut it out using a diode laser. For the material, I chose 1/8" MDF board, along with acrylic black paint and wood glue. The base features a couple of holes to accommodate magnets. The layout of the screws allows the magnets to secure the signal in place and also helps to prevent any damage if someone accidentally bumps into it.

It occurred to me only after installation that I could have employed the magnets and screws as terminals, which would make the signals removable. Perhaps I’ll consider this modification one day when I have some spare time. I also used 1/4" wire loom to encase the wiring. The LEDs used are 5mm from Evans Designs, and the relays are Azatrax MRAPR-12V DPDT relays rated for 8A, with one relay designated for each track. The LED holders were sourced from Amazon, painted black, and the plastic sockets needed to be sliced with a hobby knife to accommodate the LEDs. The LEDs come with an integrated rectifier and resistor circuit, which complicates the fitting process. I implemented an isolated rail circuit on the outside rail to activate the signal.

@Oldegreybeard posted:

I examined older signals from the early 20th century and developed a semi-scale design that I believed would meet my needs. After drafting the design in CAD, I utilized Lightburn software to cut it out using a diode laser. For the material, I chose 1/8" MDF board, along with acrylic black paint and wood glue. The base features a couple of holes to accommodate magnets. The layout of the screws allows the magnets to secure the signal in place and also helps to prevent any damage if someone accidentally bumps into it.

It occurred to me only after installation that I could have employed the magnets and screws as terminals, which would make the signals removable. Perhaps I’ll consider this modification one day when I have some spare time. I also used 1/4" wire loom to encase the wiring. The LEDs used are 5mm from Evans Designs, and the relays are Azatrax MRAPR-12V DPDT relays rated for 8A, with one relay designated for each track. The LED holders were sourced from Amazon, painted black, and the plastic sockets needed to be sliced with a hobby knife to accommodate the LEDs. The LEDs come with an integrated rectifier and resistor circuit, which complicates the fitting process. I implemented an isolated rail circuit on the outside rail to activate the signal.

Wonderful explanation I  glad Jay asked the question!

@Oldegreybeard posted:

.... The base features a couple of holes to accommodate magnets. The layout of the screws allows the magnets to secure the signal in place and also helps to prevent any damage if someone accidentally bumps into it.

It occurred to me only after installation that I could have employed the magnets and screws as terminals, which would make the signals removable. Perhaps I’ll consider this modification one day when I have some spare time....

I particularly like the use of the magnets.  That's a great idea.  Seems like it can be applied to a lot of accessories.

@Mallard4468 posted:

I particularly like the use of the magnets.  That's a great idea.  Seems like it can be applied to a lot of accessories.

I believe it can. I plan to try it on the next installation. Maybe a lighted building.

@Tranquil Hollow RR posted:

Andre that looks impressive. I don’t know anything about photoshop; please explain about the photo elements you mentioned. Have you done anything in O scale?

Thanks,

Jay

In the past (early-mid 2000's) I created my PhotoFlats concept and created some for some of my 3-rail experiments, but those were all structures. Here's an example of those:

At the time I had in mind offering my PhotoFlats commercially, but the hassles of trying to produce them en masse overtook any imagined gain, so it just never happened.

In addition to structures, I've then moved into creating scenery scenes.

As for how I do that:

Easier to see it done than explained, but simply basic photo manipulation skills are used. That would include:

* The ability to use the "highlight/lasso" tool, then copying and pasting the selected portion to the target image.

* Blending the edges to soften the pasted-on look via making the edges have some transparency. (Only 1 or two pixels will do it.)

* I then use the "Clone" tool w/edge blending to simultaneously "clone" trees/etc from other portions of the target image along the edges of the pasted item to make it appear that it's part of the scene and not pasted into place.

Once the skills are acquired, you can use photos to create small scenes all the way up to expansive scenes for printing out, cutting out, and assembling, into acceptable backdrops for use on one's layout.

Here's an example of what can be done with scenery. First, here is the unaltered image I snapped a couple years or so ago...

For my purposes, I wanted the autumn ridge (I model my layout to reflect the autumn season), and some of the unimproved pasture, but did NOT want the manicured right of way on which I am standing, or the plastic sack hanging on the fence, etc, etc.

After an hour or more in photo shop, I turned the above into this:

Using cut and paste, blending, and cloning, I turned the above into a 64" wide scene that I will use behind a lumber mill scene. I left the top of the ridge basically straight so I can trim it for the desired ridge line as I'm cutting the excess white sky from the printed/assembled paper backdrop.

Like I said, it's not easily explained, but if you could look over my shoulder as I'm doing and I could explain what I'm doing, then it becomes more clear.

Why photos?

Well, that's because I don't have the skills to paint convincing backdrops, but I DO have some skills so I can create my own backdrops using my photos.

Now, I do NOT want to convey the thought that this is easy. It is a lot of work and I have to use skills and logic that I've learned over the past 2 decades within photo shop exploits. There is a steep learning curve.

However, I think that photo backdrops are superior to any attempt on my part to convey reality via painting. So, to me, the effort is worth it.

Besides, I've seen good layout modeling really detracted from by poorly painted backdrops. Seeing as I knew my backdrop would be poorly painted... it was a no brainer for me to figure out a way to use my photo shop skills to create my backdrops.

So why not use some of the many wonderful commercial offerings?

Well... mainly because I can't get what I want from commercial offerings. Plus, my layout will have the side benefit that my backdrops will not look like anyone else's. It will be unique.

So, that's my story an' I'm stickin' to it LOL!

Andre

@laming Andre kudos to you for the Photoshop expertise.  I've struggled with using the tool and never got any good at it. I found it not to be very intuitive.  I have since lost access to the suite of tools. That is a bummer. I presume you print these at one of the Office and Mail stores? I suppose a banner shop could do a good job as well.

Are you willing to share the building images so someone can stitch them together to make their own backdrop? My email in in my profile.  THX  Jeff

I've looked at several of the preprinted backdrop vendors but they do not have what I am thinking about.

HAD FEW MINUTES TO KILL...

So I whipped up a quickie, cut it out, pasted it to some backing... and out to the layout building I scurried... some tape and presto:

"Hawksbill" bluff is now installed into my fledgling Buck Holler mock-up area...

FWIW: "Hawksbill" (aka "Whitaker Point") is an actual Ozark feature deep in the mountains near Boxley, AR.

Andre

Pulled the Santa Fe  K-Line F-3s' out of the barn today to pull the "1938 Super Chief"...they've been off duty for quite a while but still fired right up.  The engines have a capacitator rather than a battery, and the sound system is powerful.  This set of engines (the B is still in the box), along with a set of K-Line Pennsylvania green F-3's,  started my entrance into O Gauge back in 2006...time flies these days!

Laming, nice job. Looks great

Wow @laming Andre that looks Amazing and what quick work!

@Capetrainman Paul that is a great scene of your city and your passengers train!

Got my UFO corner setup on my overhead layout.   Had to raise things 2" so they could be seen from the room.   Used 3D printer to make some risers for the Menards M&M UFO.  Also a riser ring for the UFO cafe.   

Now to make risers for my second hand lions corner.   

It's groundhog day once again , I ran some trains for about 10 minutes and like every day for the past 2 weeks I sat at the computer and played around with Rail Modeller Pro for most of my day. I've abandoned all designs working with Lionel O gauge tube track and created a new design with Gargraves Phantom and Ross switches. I scaled back my intentions a bit and have come up with a goal that financially is more realistic.          The information I have obtained searching these posts have been an awakening. The amount of money and time I would have spent trying to come across the amount of 072 switches I planned was astonishing!

Here are the photos of my latest design. The stacked photo makes it all seem a bit busy, but as I went through this 2nd draft I am hard pressed to find any corners to cut. Any and all input is always welcome. Keep up the great work! I'm amazed at the level of creativity on this site.

I did a first try at making "brick" streets using @ScoutingDad Jeff's method with NARA clay and a brick embossed roller.  It didn't turn out half bad.  I kneaded the clay, then flattened it out with my fingers, but couldn't get the dips and bumps out.  I finally rolled the imperfections out with the only thing that was nearby; a Krylon rattle can.  While random dips can be expected on 100-year old streets, usually from places that were dug up for utility repairs, the dips on my example are too frequent.  I am thinking I will build up the sides with some stripwood or styrene the height I want and use an old rolling pin to roll it out flat.  Of course, I could do a trial run at painting the bricks and gaps between bricks as Jeff found worked best for him before I rip this out.  Maybe I will like it the way it is.  Jeff gets all the credit on this project.  He did the trial and error with different clays and paints.  Thank you, Jeff!!! 

@Mark Boyce posted:

I did a first try at making "brick" streets using @ScoutingDad Jeff's method with NARA clay and a brick embossed roller.  It didn't turn out half bad.  I kneaded the clay, then flattened it out with my fingers, but couldn't get the dips and bumps out.  I finally rolled the imperfections out with the only thing that was nearby; a Krylon rattle can.  While random dips can be expected on 100-year old streets, usually from places that were dug up for utility repairs, the dips on my example are too frequent.  I am thinking I will build up the sides with some stripwood or styrene the height I want and use an old rolling pin to roll it out flat.  Of course, I could do a trial run at painting the bricks and gaps between bricks as Jeff found worked best for him before I rip this out.  Maybe I will like it the way it is.  Jeff gets all the credit on this project.  He did the trial and error with different clays and paints.  Thank you, Jeff!!! 

That looks fantastic to me, Mark. A little weathering/detailing and that would be good to go on my pike. Great job and kudos to @ScoutingDad

@Mark Boyce posted:

I did a first try at making "brick" streets using @ScoutingDad Jeff's method with NARA clay and a brick embossed roller.  It didn't turn out half bad.  I kneaded the clay, then flattened it out with my fingers, but couldn't get the dips and bumps out.  I finally rolled the imperfections out with the only thing that was nearby; a Krylon rattle can.  While random dips can be expected on 100-year old streets, usually from places that were dug up for utility repairs, the dips on my example are too frequent.  I am thinking I will build up the sides with some stripwood or styrene the height I want and use an old rolling pin to roll it out flat.  Of course, I could do a trial run at painting the bricks and gaps between bricks as Jeff found worked best for him before I rip this out.  Maybe I will like it the way it is.  Jeff gets all the credit on this project.  He did the trial and error with different clays and paints.  Thank you, Jeff!!! 

Mark,

A member of our extended family lives on Creighton Ave in Dayton Ohio which is a cobblestone street dating back to probably the days of Model T cars.  I thought you'd like to see a photo of it where all the dips and undulations are clearly visible.  If you need a realistic prototype of an older cobblestone street, here you go!

Great job Mark! How much do you have to do?

@Mark Boyce. Mark nice job on the brick street. Looks pretty thick. You could get a deeper emboss by pressing harder on the roller. I presumed you would use a rolling pin. I used a half inch steel rod. Using a rattle can is certainly unique. How long has the clay dried before you took the image?

I have not decided what to use for the curbing. I need to have the street removable so will probably glue directly to the brick streets.  Nice to be able to contribute a decent idea to the forum. Thanks for the kudos.

Thank you, Strap Hanger, Mike, Pat, Jeff!  Jeff, It had dried about a day and a half.  The high spots got pressed deeper.  I was thinking the low spots aren't pressed deep enough.

Pat, I have some photographs.  I live just outside of town about 1/4 mile from the nearest brick streets.  One daughter lives on a brick street on a hill.  That one shows wavy rows as the bricks must have slipped over the years.  The streets on the other side of town are yellow/tan instead of red/brown.  The first photograph is closest to the house.  You can't see the dips that well because of the shadows, but this is one of the worst.

My "Volume 2" copy of the Jim Spavin's book Minimalist Model Railroading: 15 More Track Planning Case Studies arrived this week. This prompted me to refer to Vol 1 for "more briefing" and re reading. The result was totally re-doing my spare bedroom O27 retirement layout design I wrote about last week. I streamlined, deleted, reconfigured, simplified, concentrated on MORE essence and less clutter with a few suggested operational ideas. The result is ONE inner around-the-room Line/Route that can be operated point-to-point and a Second "inferred" outer around-the- room Line that also serves as constant run, staging, interchange to the inner track. I really like the simplicity and "essense" version of of my local prototype shortline better with this new draft. My original design was at https://ogrforum.com/topic/ret...5#188804206451242155

@PatKelly that new plan looks great

Pat, congrats on the updated design. I am too comitted to big iron so 072 is min for me. I really like the peninsulas you worked. Lots of scenery opportunities. Lot more you can do with tighter curves.

@laming posted:

In the past (early-mid 2000's) I created my PhotoFlats concept and created some for some of my 3-rail experiments, but those were all structures. Here's an example of those:

At the time I had in mind offering my PhotoFlats commercially, but the hassles of trying to produce them en masse overtook any imagined gain, so it just never happened.

In addition to structures, I've then moved into creating scenery scenes.

As for how I do that:

Easier to see it done than explained, but simply basic photo manipulation skills are used. That would include:

* The ability to use the "highlight/lasso" tool, then copying and pasting the selected portion to the target image.

* Blending the edges to soften the pasted-on look via making the edges have some transparency. (Only 1 or two pixels will do it.)

* I then use the "Clone" tool w/edge blending to simultaneously "clone" trees/etc from other portions of the target image along the edges of the pasted item to make it appear that it's part of the scene and not pasted into place.

Once the skills are acquired, you can use photos to create small scenes all the way up to expansive scenes for printing out, cutting out, and assembling, into acceptable backdrops for use on one's layout.

Here's an example of what can be done with scenery. First, here is the unaltered image I snapped a couple years or so ago...

For my purposes, I wanted the autumn ridge (I model my layout to reflect the autumn season), and some of the unimproved pasture, but did NOT want the manicured right of way on which I am standing, or the plastic sack hanging on the fence, etc, etc.

After an hour or more in photo shop, I turned the above into this:

Using cut and paste, blending, and cloning, I turned the above into a 64" wide scene that I will use behind a lumber mill scene. I left the top of the ridge basically straight so I can trim it for the desired ridge line as I'm cutting the excess white sky from the printed/assembled paper backdrop.

Like I said, it's not easily explained, but if you could look over my shoulder as I'm doing and I could explain what I'm doing, then it becomes more clear.

Why photos?

Well, that's because I don't have the skills to paint convincing backdrops, but I DO have some skills so I can create my own backdrops using my photos.

Now, I do NOT want to convey the thought that this is easy. It is a lot of work and I have to use skills and logic that I've learned over the past 2 decades within photo shop exploits. There is a steep learning curve.

However, I think that photo backdrops are superior to any attempt on my part to convey reality via painting. So, to me, the effort is worth it.

Besides, I've seen good layout modeling really detracted from by poorly painted backdrops. Seeing as I knew my backdrop would be poorly painted... it was a no brainer for me to figure out a way to use my photo shop skills to create my backdrops.

So why not use some of the many wonderful commercial offerings?

Well... mainly because I can't get what I want from commercial offerings. Plus, my layout will have the side benefit that my backdrops will not look like anyone else's. It will be unique.

So, that's my story an' I'm stickin' to it LOL!

Andre

Andre, thank you so much for your patience, and clarity, in explaining the process. I think the results look splendid.

I’m still laboring with what to do about the backdrop. I agree with you that the backdrop can add or detract from the overall aesthetic. I’m going with a winter scene so I want an open sparse leading to some Pennsylvania mountains with snow to force the perspective. The past few seasons in the mid-state have been disappointing for appreciable accumulation. I have identified some areas that have potential but the photos of recent snow don’t have the coverage desired. Your results look authentic. Thanks again.

Jay

@Mark Boyce posted:

Thank you, Strap Hanger, Mike, Pat, Jeff!  Jeff, It had dried about a day and a half.  The high spots got pressed deeper.  I was thinking the low spots aren't pressed deep enough.

Pat, I have some photographs.  I live just outside of town about 1/4 mile from the nearest brick streets.  One daughter lives on a brick street on a hill.  That one shows wavy rows as the bricks must have slipped over the years.  The streets on the other side of town are yellow/tan instead of red/brown.  The first photograph is closest to the house.  You can't see the dips that well because of the shadows, but this is one of the worst.

Now that’s a Pittsburgh street Mark.

@Mark Boyce posted:

I did a first try at making "brick" streets using @ScoutingDad Jeff's method with NARA clay and a brick embossed roller.  It didn't turn out half bad.  I kneaded the clay, then flattened it out with my fingers, but couldn't get the dips and bumps out.  I finally rolled the imperfections out with the only thing that was nearby; a Krylon rattle can.  While random dips can be expected on 100-year old streets, usually from places that were dug up for utility repairs, the dips on my example are too frequent.  I am thinking I will build up the sides with some stripwood or styrene the height I want and use an old rolling pin to roll it out flat.  Of course, I could do a trial run at painting the bricks and gaps between bricks as Jeff found worked best for him before I rip this out.  Maybe I will like it the way it is.  Jeff gets all the credit on this project.  He did the trial and error with different clays and paints.  Thank you, Jeff!!! 

Mark, that's a great looking road...a different slant on the black ashalt roads that most of us have on the layout, with many different approaches to road surface.  i attempted to recall the kitchen tool my grandmother once used for flattening out pie crust as the perfect tool to smooth out your road.  As I read down the thread here, rolling pin was mentioned..ah ha...that was the tool I was trying to recall....your road looks very realstic!

Adding some layout lighting to my pic posted above changes the entire look...like night and day...

@Capetrainman posted:

Adding some layout lighting to my pic posted above changes the entire look...like night and day...

Paul, the lights look great.  The really illumine the scene!  Who manufactures them?

@Mark Boyce posted:

Paul, the lights look great.  The really illumine the scene!  Who manufactures them?

Mark, the lantern lights along the track at the station are Lionel...I bought them years ago at Charles Ro in the close-out bin...took me a decade or so to install them...the green base and pole is metal...

I'm kind of OCD when it comes to details on my locomotives (not so much on my layout). So I always like to compare the real prototype to the model. I noticed the real CSX SD70AC rebuilds have yellow safety paint on all grab irons. So I bought a few paint pens, and with a steady hand, and pictures of the prototype, began applying my own safety paint to all the grab irons. The real ones only have it on the grab surface, while the part that bolts onto the locomotive is blue. Here is before and after...or on the first picture, after & before. I don't know if this will hurt the value, but I don't really care.