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Mitch- what a neat little project. Much easier on the eyes than a red GG-1! IIRC that's a K-line S-2 frame.....they are quite peppy little buggers. I have several and I have re-wired all of the motors in series to slow them down. BTW- not to be picky but standard electrical tape is only rated for between 300 VAC and 600 VAC depending on the brand.....

Chris A- great job on the signal project so far

Bryan- WOW Creativity prize of page 899 is yours

Lee D- nice work on the decals. I've got a few decal projects to do. Gotta get up the nerve to start. I remember doing water-slides on Revell cars years ago.

Randy H- The build is really looking sharp.

John R- your people painting prowess is particularly un-parallelled......

Matt- looks like Lucy is going to be a great train buddy !

Almost to page 900 WHOO! HOO!

Last edited by RSJB18
RSJB18 posted:

Mitch- what a neat little project. Much easier on the eyes than a red GG-1!

IIRC that's a K-line S-2 frame.....they are quite peppy little buggers. I have several and I have re-wired all of the motors in series to slow them down.

On the nosey!  

GEDC1872

 

BTW- not to be picky but standard electrical tape is only rated for between 300 VAC and 600 VAC depending on the brand.....

Well, we're dealing with about 600 scale volts, or about 12.5 actual volts, so... ;-) 

Mitch 

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Thanks to all for the positive feedback and likes on the signalling project.   

I decided I needed a break yesterday from wiring signals, so I started building another 8 feet of concrete retaining wall....  There were a bunch of questions a year and a half ago, when I built the first 8 feet, but I had not taken any "in process" photos.  So, decided yesterday, I would post some photos of how this got made, it's not difficult, but photos are always easier to see and understand....

The base is 1/8" hardboard, but any flat surface would work, styrene, plywood etc.  The raised parts are 1/16 inch thick "fun foam" this stuff is easy to cut razor or scissors, easy to texture, scuff it with sandpaper, or my 1st choice is roll a wire wheel over it.... makes 1000's of tiny holes...    Although 1/16" sounds thin, it's actually 3 inches in 1/4 inch scale, so it's probably pretty accurate for reliefs in poured concrete.  

Anyway here are some photos of the new sections going together.  Maybe it will help someone whose interested in fabricating some concrete retaining walls.  

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Mitch, very good kitbashing job. Steeple cab will look real good when you have painted it.

Chris a, good to hear you got some layout work in. Don't you just love it when a hiccup shows up and you have to look for it.

Well after reading Bryan's post from yesterday I did look for a cliff but unfortunately living in the city the highest cliff I had was the curb and it didn't work LOL. So this morning I went back to working on the building for the top of the silos. Sides are all glued. Now I am just waiting for the glue to dry so I can start fitting the roofs. I painted the bottom of the shed black and put a second coat on the shed roof but with further thought I am going to use Balsa wood to fill in around the track inside the shed and do the same thing to the track in there that I did on the Lionel Grain Elevator. Pics...............Paul 2

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chris a posted:

Thanks to all for the positive feedback and likes on the signalling project.   

I decided I needed a break yesterday from wiring signals, so I started building another 8 feet of concrete retaining wall....  There were a bunch of questions a year and a half ago, when I built the first 8 feet, but I had not taken any "in process" photos.  So, decided yesterday, I would post some photos of how this got made, it's not difficult, but photos are always easier to see and understand....

The base is 1/8" hardboard, but any flat surface would work, styrene, plywood etc.  The raised parts are 1/16 inch thick "fun foam" this stuff is easy to cut razor or scissors, easy to texture, scuff it with sandpaper, or my 1st choice is roll a wire wheel over it.... makes 1000's of tiny holes...    Although 1/16" sounds thin, it's actually 3 inches in 1/4 inch scale, so it's probably pretty accurate for reliefs in poured concrete.  

Anyway here are some photos of the new sections going together.  Maybe it will help someone whose interested in fabricating some concrete retaining walls.  

 

  

Chris, nice work on the walls, thanks for the how to

Ray no problem,  I am about to get out my notes on how I painted and weathered the first section, so I'll take some more photos as I go through the steps of painting and weathering.....  Finally realized about a year ago, that I really needed to document the painting and weathering steps or I would never remember what the heck I did...

Figured if I am going back to find my notes on painting / weathering this retaining wall, I might as well copy and paste my notes in here for anyone who's interested in duplicating it....

 

Formula for Aging Concrete:     Used on 82 inch retaining wall   November 4th  2018

Prime with diluted flat white primer, brush roller or paint pad,  

I also sprinkled some very fine granite dust, left over from sifting “ballast” this stuff is finer than talble salt, probably more like baking soda….  I applied very little in inconsistent coverage….

Spray with Rust O Leum -  Camouflage colors:   Khaki and Sand

Overspray lightly with Cheap Walmart White Flat Paint, 

Multi colored craft paint Acrylic washes:

  • Nicoles 72700 White
  • Apple Barrel 21390 Khaki
  • Apple Barrel 20580E - Pewter Gray
  • Apple Barrel 20575 Sandstone
  • Woodland Scenics C121  Concrete Liquid Pigment

Note:   I apply the washes in blotches, not uniform over the entire wall.   If it looks too blotchy then I do a final diluted wash to blend it all back together....

After everything it dries, I scrape off some of the granite particles, creates show through, kind of like the “salt painting method” for creating rust, and blotchy paint effects where you add salt crystals, paint over them then remove them letting the prior color show through.

 

Paul,  no I am not having fun tracing down wiring issues on my relay panel  !!!....   I have come to the conclusion that although I used high quality stranded, tinned copper wire, it was something I purchased used at a train show, and I have found some pieces that must have been damaged internally, maybe over flexed or stressed, and the connections are intermittent.... it's  24 gauge which has plenty of capacity for low voltage/low current application, but I have already found 2 wires that are flaky.... bummer. 

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Chris a, at least you are zeroing in on the problem. Think if a poll was taken wiring would not be in the top ten LOL.

This afternoon I finished putting the building together adding the roofs and base. When that glue sets I can paint the roof black and the buildings sides a light color. I took a piece of Gar Graves and cut out the center rail along with the ties, placed Balsa strips along the inside and then cut a piece of drywall mesh tape for a grate. Glued that section down and when that dries I can start adding Balsa to the outside of the track. This is probably it for the day. I will be going up to Independence tonight to set up my module for the Modular group and also I bought s table for the show tomorrow so I can set that up tonight so I won't have to do it tomorrow morning. Maybe this time I will sell something but in any case I didn't bring too much so that is less I have to come home with. Pics...........Paul 2

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Chris, I spent this afternoon tracing a wiring problem. One section of the layout lost the building lights, no voltage. Traced all the way back to the KW where there was power. Should have used the old saying "what did you last change". Come to find out some wires I got rid of on a section I am redoing on the other end of the layout, had the supply going through it so put in a jumper and all is ok except my neck, back, knees etc. I used to like wiring when a little younger. 

Thanks for the info on the aged concrete finish.

Last edited by sidehack

Even doing repairs can be fun because you are working on the layout.

After about 18 years in service a switch started shorting out near the Lisa-Marieville Station. Fortunately I have a stash of new switches (and wide radius track if needed) for such issues. Good thing that it was in a reachable spot, and in a spot where I planned on re-doing a bumpy section of track anyway - two birds with one stone, one might say.

So yesterday and today I replaced it. The repairs would have been free but I let the smoke out of my Dremel cutting a support and had to buy a new one, $99.

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Mitch your new steeplecab is quite a puller, bet that Artimus Prime standing in the middle of town is really impressed

With all this marvelous and realistic modeling I am sending my VERY humble contribution.  After 4 days (2 full weekends) of unpacking storage boxes, inventory, separating items for sale, and finding new places for the remainder, I FINALLY cleared off some area to use to support my Leonardtown and Savannah...This picture is my new storage yard, adjacent to the remote freight house that finally gives me a place to put cars / loco's that I run but I cannot keep permanently on the layout.  Crude solution but it beats packing and unpacking boxes every time I want to run a different train.  I will also admit, that it does take "TBHoG" (the big hand of God) to cover the 5 ft between the yard and the main, but that is all the room can support at this time.  Anyway here is the new yard (now many details as yet)

Freight Storage Yard

Have a great weekend guys,

Don

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So keeping decent notes on the concrete aging painting & weathering process and colors really paid off.... 

I have only two steps to go when the washes dry and that's to go back, scrape off some of the gravel to expose layers underneath, scratch some more cracks into the concrete sections and add some shadows.   All in all I am "amazed" at how close it matches the section I did back in 2018, especially since I chose not to remove the other section, and place it on the bench while I did today's painting/stamping/weathering...   The original installed section is on the right under the pine/spruce trees....   Here are some photos.  

First photos are after running the wire wheel and applying the flat white primer as a base coat.

Next the light spray of Camouflage Sand and Khaki paint

Then the almost finished result after stamping the slightly diluted  washes with the different mixes of the 5 colors I listed above.  I put the paints out on a pane of glass in a "circle" and keep a small water cup handy then mix them on the glass and keep stamping till I think I am there.  

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The wall looks great, Chris!  Both your notes and the wiring issues of Ray’s remind me of two lessons from when I was working.  Write down notes because you won’t have to fix this off the wall thing again for a year or more.  Second, what did you disturb last?  The best supervisor I ever had in my 43 years working would always remind us of that.

Pail, have a great day at Independence.  My uncle worked for a company there many years ago.  Don’t worry about Bryan.  His module is very flashy and well done but I like yours is very peaceful scenery!!

Union Station marches forward. I masked the building and sprayed it with the final coat. After much touch-up and drying, the temporary assembly with the progress to date is below.

03062020580306202058a

For much more detail on today's work process and materials used, see my post at https://ogrforum.com/...6#137133979337041436 in the OGR Scenery Forum.

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M. Mitchell Marmel posted:

The steeplecab progresses.  Will do a writeup at some point... 

GEDC1908

Mitch,

Perhaps this has been asked already and I missed it, but just in case it hasn't, how exactly do crew members get into the cab? I don't see a door anywhere.

And seeing how someone else posted about their pup trying to get into their layout room, I noticed that mine is a little distracted by someone I think looks a lot like her...

SweetPea and Woodstock

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p51 posted:
M. Mitchell Marmel posted:

The steeplecab progresses.  Will do a writeup at some point... 

GEDC1908

Mitch,

Perhaps this has been asked already and I missed it, but just in case it hasn't, how exactly do crew members get into the cab? I don't see a door anywhere.

And seeing how someone else posted about their pup trying to get into their layout room, I noticed that mine is a little distracted by someone I think looks a lot like her...

SweetPea and Woodstock

There's a killjoy in every group.....LOL  No sarcasm meant.  I suspect that I would cut a door or doors into the sides of the cab, using the double pane window as the top portion of the door.  

I finished the Preiser Seated People for the Canadian Pacific Coaches and Dining Car.

Today the mailman delivered 2 sets of 4802B 48 China Seated Figures.  Total 96 figures.  The set includes the figure of a man turned and gesturing.  I use this figure with other Preiser figures to create a conversation group. . .  so I stated painting the 15 that just arrived, one was missing.  I should be finished by late tonight.

Updated:  More pictures of my progress tonight have been added.  Sweater and pants added.  Painting shoes has been done.  Painting the hair has been done.  Only the final inspection and touch-up is left to be done.

Have a good day.

John Rowlen

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Last edited by John Rowlen
John Rowlen posted:

I finished the Preiser Seated People for the Canadian Pacific Coaches and Dining Car.

Today the mailman delivered 2 sets of 6402B 48 China Seated Figures.  The set includes the figure of a man turned and gesturing.  I use this figure with other Preiser figures to create a conversation group. . .  so I stated painting the 15 that just arrived, one was missing.  I should be finished by late tonight.

John Rowlen

Coming from China - scary!!!   I assume that you will wait 14 days (quarantine) before beginning painting and placing them in a crowded coach, diner whatever!   Please wait it out and do not start tonight!!!!

Cheers, Dave

Last edited by darlander

Rocky Mountain Train Show (in Denver Colorado) (RMTS) 3/7 & 3/8

Went to the annual RMTS today before I came to work tonight. Lots of Vendors, Forums, Clinics, layouts, and more.
I'm not really ready to buy much yet, but I got :
Insulated track pins that I'll need, 
Green 395 floodlight tower w/box, to replace the silver one I broke @age 7.
& 60° crossing (couldn't resist for just $3, I Could need it sometime.)

I remembered to take a couple pic's before I left:
Trainshow-IMG_0429Trainshow-IMG_0430

I particularly like the Mining Operation:
Trainshow-IMG_0431Trainshow-IMG_0432

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Last edited by ToyFreak

Stripped off the O gauge track as the radius I had on hand was to tight for my UK tinplate live steamer.  Replaced it with 0-27 Lionel track but with 42" radius curves(yes they offered the 027 style track in larger radius curves at one time).  This is just temporary till I get 6 more pieces of 042 curved and a full circle of Johnsons Rubber Roadbed for 042.  AD

Last edited by artfull dodger
Dan Padova posted:
p51 posted:
M. Mitchell Marmel posted:

The steeplecab progresses.  Will do a writeup at some point... 

GEDC1908

Mitch,

Perhaps this has been asked already and I missed it, but just in case it hasn't, how exactly do crew members get into the cab? I don't see a door anywhere.

And seeing how someone else posted about their pup trying to get into their layout room, I noticed that mine is a little distracted by someone I think looks a lot like her...

There's a killjoy in every group.....LOL  No sarcasm meant.  I suspect that I would cut a door or doors into the sides of the cab, using the double pane window as the top portion of the door.  

Knowing the speeds at which Mitch tends to run, I would assume he is considering his latest Franken-creation to be like a NASCAR... the crew had to climb through the window  

Apples55 posted:
Dan Padova posted:
p51 posted:
M. Mitchell Marmel posted:

The steeplecab progresses.  Will do a writeup at some point... 

GEDC1908

Mitch,

Perhaps this has been asked already and I missed it, but just in case it hasn't, how exactly do crew members get into the cab? I don't see a door anywhere.

And seeing how someone else posted about their pup trying to get into their layout room, I noticed that mine is a little distracted by someone I think looks a lot like her...

There's a killjoy in every group.....LOL  No sarcasm meant.  I suspect that I would cut a door or doors into the sides of the cab, using the double pane window as the top portion of the door.  

Knowing the speeds at which Mitch tends to run, I would assume he is considering his latest Franken-creation to be like a NASCAR... the crew had to climb through the window  

With a head start dashing up the steps on either end! 

It's either that or there's a hatch in the floor leading to the tracks.  ^.^ 

Mitch 

Apples55 posted:
Dan Padova posted:
p51 posted:
M. Mitchell Marmel posted:

The steeplecab progresses.  Will do a writeup at some point... 

GEDC1908

Mitch,

Perhaps this has been asked already and I missed it, but just in case it hasn't, how exactly do crew members get into the cab? I don't see a door anywhere.

And seeing how someone else posted about their pup trying to get into their layout room, I noticed that mine is a little distracted by someone I think looks a lot like her...

There's a killjoy in every group.....LOL  No sarcasm meant.  I suspect that I would cut a door or doors into the sides of the cab, using the double pane window as the top portion of the door.  

Knowing the speeds at which Mitch tends to run, I would assume he is considering his latest Franken-creation to be like a NASCAR... the crew had to climb through the window  

Paul let’s hope it’s not another Ryan Newman incident lol 

artfull dodger posted:

Stripped off the O gauge track as the radius I had on hand was to tight for my UK tinplate live steamer.  Replaced it with 0-27 Lionel track but with 42" radius curves(yes they offered the 027 style track in larger radius curves at one time).  This is just temporary till I get 6 more pieces of 042 curved and a full circle of Johnsons Rubber Roadbed for 042.  AD

Artful Dodger,

O27 height track was also made in O34 (Marx), O42 (Lionel & K-Line). O54 (Lionel & K-Line) and O72 (K-Line). See the pic below.

Lionel & K-Line also made O27 profile O42 switches. Lionel's have been extremely reliable on Warrenville, fyi. I have no first hand experience with K-Line's.

Have fun!

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