What methods do you use to hold your wiring under the layout?

I don't have a picture but they make a galvanized half-round pipe holder for pipe about 1-2" outside diameter. You only secure one side to a wall. They are used to hold pipe against a wall. Any big-box or Ace type hardware probably has them. I use them under my computer table to hold all the wires up under the desk. That way you can pull a wire down without having to thread a hole.

@GVDobler posted:

I don't have a picture but they make a galvanized half-round pipe holder for pipe about 1-2" outside diameter. You only secure one side to a wall. They are used to hold pipe against a wall. Any big-box or Ace type hardware probably has them. I use them under my computer table to hold all the wires up under the desk. That way you can pull a wire down without having to thread a hole.

Thank you; that's an interesting solution I'll look into this week.

I use u-shaped plastic conduit clamps in 3/4 in and 1-in sizes that I get by the bag on Amazon.  I also drill 1-in holes in the center of my 2x4 bench work. This does not affect the structural integrity of the wood.  Amazon also sells the little sticky mounts for tie wraps which use sometimes as well like on the back of the control panel.

@Dougklink posted:

I use u-shaped plastic conduit clamps in 3/4 in and 1-in sizes that I get by the bag on Amazon.  I also drill 1-in holes in the center of my 2x4 bench work. This does not affect the structural integrity of the wood.  Amazon also sells the little sticky mounts for tie wraps which use sometimes as well like on the back of the control panel.

Another vote for plastic conduit clamps.  Cheap and easy to use.  Prefer plastic over metal - easier on the hands, and less chance of chafing the wires.  If only my wiring was that neat...

I had a big box of aviation Adel Clamps and holes through the 2x4 frames and where applicable I use tie wraps with self adhesive bases lots of tie wraps and clamps about every 2 feet and on the control panel even closer together as needed. I do not want to catch anything on a wire bundle. My lay out is 40 feet long and 15 feet wide in a U shape. I keep everything as close to the underside of the layout table top as possible. Nothing hanging nothing to get caught on!

1-11/2 " PVC Pipe straps. Screw one side in and leave the other loose. They are flexible enough to pull down and drop the wires in. Wire pulls through them easily.  A few tie-wraps along the way will keep the slack out of the wires.

I used 2" wire channel for switches and areas with many wires. I should have used much more. I also used Gardner-Bender supports They have a snap top to make it easy to add or remove wires. I also use wire that is flexible and bends. I haven't been able to find wire that only goes in straight lines and 90 degree turns like I see in the subsequent posts.

@RSJB18 posted:

1-11/2 " PVC Pipe straps. Screw one side in and leave the other loose. They are flexible enough to pull down and drop the wires in. Wire pulls through them easily.  A few tie-wraps along the way will keep the slack out of the wires.

I do it the same exact way.

I use a combination of Home depot wire looms , wire mold and cannabalized raceways from old computer cabinets

Thank you, everyone, for all your suggestions.

Making it up as I go along!?!

I suspect this will give you a few ideas…..the key is color coding, tagging everything and making it easy to follow.

Peter

They sell what's known as "plumber's tape" at the big box stores. In reality, it is a semi-rigid, but flexible plastic tape that can easily be cut with a scissors to the length you need and then straddled across your wire and stapled to the underside of your layout on either side of the tape. Cheap and goes very fast with an electric stapler or gun.

@Putnam Division posted:

I suspect this will give you a few ideas…..the key is color coding, tagging everything and making it easy to follow.

Peter

I'm a cross between a fanatic and an evangelist on making sure all wires are tagged every 18 to 36".  If you don't tag your wiring, you're just making a rat's nest of future problems.  :-)

I use cup hooks and cable ties to keep the wires attached where necessary.

My table frame is 2 x 8 lumber.  l drill holes and string the wire through the frame.  In some cases I bundle the wire and support the bundle under the frame.  Almost all interconnects are crimp spade lugs and barrier strips.  I use long power srrips to feed 12 VDC to my LED converted city scene D56 house plugs.

Holes in the framing plus light weight zip ties.

Staples and twist ties

As always there are some great suggestions here.  I had a bunch of these coaxial cable nail-in cable clips (for RG6 I believe) so I use these for smaller wire bundles like track power drops.  I leave them just a bit loose so I can add or remove wires as necessary.

I also use European style terminal blocks as the last termination before a wire goes through the layout (like for a track drop or for an accessory).  This is so I can remove anything without cutting wires.  I cut them down to typically 2 or 3 connections and place them within a few inches of where the wire goes through the layout.

Tony V

@Thirdrail600v posted:

I use those exact same mounting bases for wire ties too, but I have had the problem of them falling off the wood over time so now I always put a small screw in the center.

@Hudson J1e posted:

I use those exact same mounting bases for wire ties too, but I have had the problem of them falling off the wood over time so now I always put a small screw in the center.

Correct! I do the same. I failed to mention that.

I also use the mounting pads with screws (the glue on the back of the pad will not hold long term) and cable ties.

Ken

@Tony_V posted:

I also use European style terminal blocks as the last termination before a wire goes through the layout (like for a track drop or for an accessory).  This is so I can remove anything without cutting wires.  I cut them down to typically 2 or 3 connections and place them within a few inches of where the wire goes through the layout.

Tony V

I used the European terminal approach on my last layout.  When I took that layout down in 2019 before our move to our present home, I was able to salvage all of those terminals for re-use. 

I also use the European style terminal blocks at the last connection.  I also forgot to mention that on wood I also use the provided screws for the tie wrap holders.  The Amazon kit comes with screws, mounts, and ties.

I used bridle rings screwed into the underside of by table.  They are cheap and easy to slip wires in and out.

Jan

I don’t remember what these are called. They work well for me. They are made so a screw goes through both ends of the thing, but I just put the screw through one end. That leaves the hanger open so you can easily remove or add a wire to the hanger. A closed circle makes it difficult to make changes like that. These are flexible. They come in various sizes, so you can use a larger one if you need to hang several wires. They are available in stores like Lowes.

For me it’s plastic J channels that are normally used for vinyl siding. They are cheap, keep the wires from sagging, and the wires can be easily serviced if needed.  Wago connectors are used to splice wires together and they snap nicely into the J channel.

Oh my, an uphill battle. Usual way I do it.  Greg

Thanks for this thread.  It will be really helpful when I build my layout.  Lots of great ideas.  Not sure which one to choose.  I guess anything but this:

John 

In addition to securing the wires I would suggest that you label them as you go; and in different locations for long runs.

I've tried a variety of cable clips/hooks. Those with adhesive (they eventually fall off. Not sure why, but there must be something about the plywood I use)  then I discovered these. Solved my problem. Easy to install, anywhere with just a drill and they open/close easily.  If I were starting anew, this would be my choice.

From Amazon:  GEZIDEA Light Hanger Hooks, Ceiling Hooks,Screw-in Hooks for Hanging String Lights and Wire,Plants,Wind Chimes,White,20 Pack  (Search "Light hangar clips" and you'll get a variety)

@Craftech posted:

Thanks for this thread.  It will be really helpful when I build my layout.

John 

I'm glad you found it helpful.   

I don't feel stupid now for asking this sort of simple question to the forum members!    I thought there would be one, two or maybe three suggestions, not all the different approaches we're seeing here.

@Tranquil Hollow RR posted:

In addition to securing the wires I would suggest that you label them as you go; and in different locations for long runs.

I am a fanatic about labeling at the beginning and the end of the wire--right on the wire as well as labeling every 18 to 36 inches on the longer runs.

Here's what the inside of my last layout's control panel looked like after labeling and when you closed its door.  It may look like a rat's nest, but in minutes you could trace from any of the turn-out control push-buttons or track occupancy lights back the other end at the switch or yard track.

@Pat Shediack posted:

I'm glad you found it helpful.   

I don't feel stupid now for asking this sort of simple question to the forum members!    I thought there would be one, two or maybe three suggestions, not all the different approaches we're seeing here.

Pat,

There are and have been lots of forums on the internet over the years where you go to share, ask questions, and help others.  Many of them have certain forum members who are condescending and feel that anyone who belongs to that particular forum should already know certain things (which they decide you should already know).  They give snarky responses to certain questions making some forum members regret they joined the forum or become afraid to ask questions.

This is NOT one of them.  This is the best forum I have ever belonged to consisting of people who genuinely like helping other people.  Some here answer the same questions over and over as time goes on and never insult the person asking it or tell them to "look it up".  Never.

Plus we have great forum moderation.

Don't ever be afraid to ask a question here.  And thanks for being a member Pat.

John

Pat,

I use a number of items to help secure wiring under the layout.  And you are correct, labeling is very important!!  In fact, each power district bus (there are 8 of them) has its own color code.  Number 6, Weirton Junction, uses white (or clear if you prefer).

Track power feeders meet each bus at a terminal block.  The conduit houses romex for the emergency STOP buttons.

This is the power distribution panel showing the DC commercial power supplies for 5VDC and 12VDC.  Above it is the one of the conduits for the Emergency Stop system and the plastic wire tray for busses.

I like the zip ties with screw holes.  The one on the left is a bus for Power District #5, Weirton.  It's color is GREEN.

I also drill holes in the ribs (when I think about it) to hold wires.

Hope these all help.

George

Thanks for the info on those spring-loaded wire hooks Ed @ToledoEd and the short video.

Just purchased two packs of the ceiling mounted variety from Amazon Australia to "fix" all of the wires hanging below the layout bench.

Peter.......Buco Australia.

Buco, you’re welcome.

I rewired by 12 by 11 layout in 2022.  It had been expanded twice and I need to do several things.  First, I wanted to move the switch controls from a central panel to be closer to where the switches were on the layout, for some switched I wanted to have the ability to control a switch in two locations.  Second, I wanted a more efficient way to hook wires up as well as an easy way to add a new light (like in a structure or a street light). Third I needed to label everything.

These lever wire connectors were recommended by others on the Forum.  I just used a glue gun to connect them in place, the ones below look to have a bracket and screws.  There are several different types of the lever connectors.

115 PCS Lever Wire Connectors Nuts Kit with Bases&Screws - 28-12 AWG, Compact Splicing Quick Disconnect Wire Splice Connectors: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

Amazon has cable clamps that are good to attach wires.

Below are four snap relays that I have hooked up to four different sets of switches, the snap relay is used to control signal lights.  The Atlas 200 snap relay has "HO" on the box, but you can use it with Atlas O Gauge switches.   

Some of my wires are held in place by staples. I stopped that approach,  I tended to miss the wire or staple through the insulation more often than not. 

I've mostly used the drill holes in your benchwork method.  I drilled most of the holes prior to any track laying etc.   I have also used the larger PVC conduit clamps as you can see in one pic.