What MTH Engines Would You Use To Test The Trackwork Of A New Layout?

It's best to run what you plan on using. Run engines on the outside and inside track  at the same time and see if you have any clearance issues on the curves and switches. Test the engines going over the switches you install as that can be a problem area, especially some MTH steam engines and Gargraves switches.

Lee Fritz

I always run a conventional engine first to make sure trackwork and switches are sound. And the wiring is (mostly) correct before I run a command engine on it.  Just a little pet peeve of mine.

since we dont know what track ,motive power, layout details  you have, its hard to suggest anything right now.-Jim

A conventional engine first.  I always use my post war 671rr.  Then the biggest Steamer and Diesel you have and then the smallest.  I recently found where everything else works, my grandson's Thomas stuff has issues with some switches.

Tony

I agree with 2 posters above: I ALWAYS test with a conventional engine first.  I've paid for too many board replacements so I don't want to risk one right off the bat.

Also, it's been my experience that steam engines with front free-floating lead trucks always seem to have problems  if there's going to be a problem.  Diesels seem to hide issues since they run smoother.

- walt

The best layout tester is a 4-12-2. Lots of wheels and a rigid base. It'll find the imperfections. 

Anything thats long with lots of wheels will do the trick, I bet centipedes would work too.

You can use an articulated for clearance, and and you can watch the front of the boiler to see how much it bounces around, but its probably not going to have too much issue navigating the track since its a bunch of short pieces linked together. 

Yeah, the 4-12-2 and Baldwin Centipedes would be good, though not 100% definitive, as the idiosyncrasies of even some small locos make them fussy. 

Best test is to just use the heck out of it; run at too-fast (not stupid-fast) speeds for a while; back-up a good bit; push cars into sidings.

Most articulated locos (admittedly most of my stuff - and it's mostly steam - is Lionel and Friends, not MTH) are pretty nimble. That's one of the reasons the real ones were built. However, I do have an MTH 0-8-8-0 Angus (so beautifully homely), and it, indeed, is not as good on its feet as it should be. Use one of those. 

Thank you all for your suggestions!

I used my command engines and for my O72, I started first with my O54 northern engines (Reading T1 and GN S2).  I then tested my GG1 and when that worked I pulled out the BBoy.  Going into my 4 way yard (ROSS at both ends) I used my 21" NH Weaver cars for clearance on my 90 deg turn with O72, O54, O42 and O31 curves. I then ran my GN S2 that had issues with the outside of the yard and when the T1 worked, I tested it with the SP Daylight which worked also. My O42 tested with my B&O Atlantic, and the O31 was tested with the PRR 0-8-0.  Note that the rating on the box is that rating via complex turnout tests and on a regular curve, and O72 engine may work on the O54 and the O54 may work on an O42.  This has been the case for most of my engines with the exception of a couple of my Northerns in a reverse movement. I always test in the above manner as I lay my trackwork.