WHAT’S ON THE WORKBENCH AT THE MOMENT

@coach joe posted:

I've got a lot of projects in the works but no real work bench to work on.  Here are a few that have been dragging on.  Hopefully I'll get them done this year.

First up is an LIRR BEEP that I want to convert to USAF.  I picked up two of these LIRR BEEPs when they were being cleared out.  The idea was to repaint one of them and dress it up in USAF decals.  Never had the heart to do the repaint so I started looking for donor shells.  I bought a NOS Conrail one, thinking I could remove the lettering and decal it.  Then along came this Kusan/Williams BEEP shell with PRR keystone stickers  under the windows and white Pennsylvania above the fuel fill.  Stickers peeled off and Mr. Clean Magic Eraser made short work of the lettering.  The only issue is the handrails.  I would love to use the metal RMT handrails instead of the plastic K/W handrails but Kusan/Williams has round holes and the RMT handrails have rectangular tabs.  I need to figure that out before adding the decals.

Now I'm the rare bird that actually likes the GN Big Sky Blue paint scheme.  I've got a MPC U36B and could never find any of the MTH engines that wear the BSB.  I could never ring myself to splurge on any of the Lionel U33Cs.  I found one of the U36B shells and fitted it on a Williams GP9.  I had to alter the handrails but that's another story.  I came across this GP7 shell.  Found pictures of a prototype so I'm going to add the rooftop air tanks and the winterization hatch.  I've got the decals and three possible donors for the chassis.  Once I figure out which chassis I have to make a placard to attach to the hand rails for the road name.

Another BSB project.  GN did have electrical operations.  While they never had anything remotely close to the E60 I intend to dress this guy in a Fantasy Great Northern Big Sky Blue paint scheme.  I've already peeled the red, white and blue stripe off.  The repaint will be ambitious for me but I'm going to give it a shot.  The Williams pantographs are a little sad but not in as bad shape as I remembered them to be.  I would like to change them but finding these guys is impossible.  I have one Atlas AEM 7 pantograph and would love to find another for this project.

Okay so it's time to tackle the BEEP shell.  I wanted to use the new metal handrails instead of the plastic, especially the one broken end rail.  As stated above the stanchions are flat, not round like the holes in the shell.  I was thinking of trying to bend the flat tabs so they would fit into the round holes instead of elongating the holes to accept the rectangular tab.  The ends of the handrails enter the last holes for each rail to lock the rails in place, however the diameter of the metal handrail is smaller than the plastic therefore it pops right out.  I don't want to damage the stanchions only to have the project fail because the ends will not stay in place.  Any ideas for a solution?

I need some curtains to block that l e d alongside a huge black screw.

Here’s a UP FEF lower frame chassis being changed

Fun isn't it Alex!   I've swapped a few K-4 frames when the gearbox gave up the ghost, and the MTH Big Boy, such fun.

@coach joe posted:

Okay so it's time to tackle the BEEP shell.  I wanted to use the new metal handrails instead of the plastic, especially the one broken end rail.  As stated above the stanchions are flat, not round like the holes in the shell.  I was thinking of trying to bend the flat tabs so they would fit into the round holes instead of elongating the holes to accept the rectangular tab.  The ends of the handrails enter the last holes for each rail to lock the rails in place, however the diameter of the metal handrail is smaller than the plastic therefore it pops right out.  I don't want to damage the stanchions only to have the project fail because the ends will not stay in place.  Any ideas for a solution?

Joe- How about if you grind the tabs down until they fit the round holes and then glue the stanchions in place? No need to remove them ever again since the shell snaps on and off the chassis.

Bob

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

Fun isn't it Alex!   I've swapped a few K-4 frames when the gearbox gave up the ghost, and the MTH Big Boy, such fun.

Oh It's a blast LOL

Alex

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

Fun isn't it Alex!   I've swapped a few K-4 frames when the gearbox gave up the ghost, and the MTH Big Boy, such fun.

@Alex M posted:

Oh It's a blast LOL

Alex

Pfft. Chassis swaps are easy .

https://ogrforum.com/...c/149802439048045802

I'm starting to work on another item I picked up from that NYE Cabin Fever MTH warehouse auction. I pad $65 for this GS4 locomotive and tender shell.

I've picked up a bunch of Premier GS class parts on the cheap in the past couple of years. A little bit of rummaging in my parts box last night and I came up with this.

The locomotive is a Frankenstein combination of PS1/PS2/PS3 parts powered by a rare Earth magnet 9243 Pittman with 6mm ball bearings. I'm just going to blacken the driver tires and axle centers and call it good. I've got to assemble the tender still but all the components are in my parts box. Plan is to use one of the PS3 steam kits I have on the electronics side, but I probably won't get around to that till the weather gets cooler in the fall.

Bob, bending or grinding the tabs so they fit in the round hole is an option, as is gluing the end of the rail it the last hole.  I was just wondering if there were any otheroptins before I go down the permanant disfigurement road.

You guys always do great repairs and work that I definitely can't do. You would hear, "Snap!" followed by a sailor's vocabulary. I would be messaging someone minutes after asking, "Um, could you fix my boo-boo?"

Hello all,

Currently on my workbench is a Korber roundhouse I was asked to build. This is just the beginning.

Alex do you still build Korber models for Korber to sell assembled, or is this for an individual?  I'm assuming that façade is 3 pieces glued together, therefore all the weights and clamps to prevent warping as the glue dries?

I won two auctions for these Weaver hoppers so adding weight to these has pushed the BEEP off the workbench (snack table) for the time being.

@coach joe posted:

Alex do you still build Korber models for Korber to sell assembled, or is this for an individual?  I'm assuming that façade is 3 pieces glued together, therefore all the weights and clamps to prevent warping as the glue dries?

Hi Joe, this is a individual model build for someone.  The clamps and steel flat stock are used to keep things flat and tight until everything dries

Thanks, Alex

Working on the K-Line A-5, it's getting the full upgrade, TMCC, ERR Cruise, ERR RS Command, fan driven smoke, Super-Chuffer, Chuff-Generator, and all LED lighting.  The fit in there is tight, no room for the Chuff-Generator, so I had to use a little sensor extender on the bottom of the motor where there's a little space.  With that in place, I can remote the Chuff-Generator and just shrink-wrap it.

It's currently holding for some connectors to come in to build a tether for it.

A quick project this week. Repainted/relettered a Lionel Atlantic Coast Line observation car to the SP/RI Golden State scheme.

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

Working on the K-Line A-5, it's getting the full upgrade, TMCC, ERR Cruise, ERR RS Command, fan driven smoke, Super-Chuffer, Chuff-Generator, and all LED lighting.  The fit in there is tight, no room for the Chuff-Generator, so I had to use a little sensor extender on the bottom of the motor where there's a little space.  With that in place, I can remote the Chuff-Generator and just shrink-wrap it.

It's currently holding for some connectors to come in to build a tether for it.

I have the same engine John. I'll be taking notes....

@RSJB18 posted:

I have the same engine John. I'll be taking notes....

This one started life as a conventional model, so I had to do stuff like swap out the couplers, and I have to come up with a better tether, the conventional models only have a 4-pin tether, two pin positions are blank.  I just got in some matching 6-pin connectors to the locomotive tether connector as the K-Line 6-pin tethers are very scarce.  I'm also using one of my remaining Cruise Commander Lite boards.

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

This one started life as a conventional model, so I had to do stuff like swap out the couplers, and I have to come up with a better tether, the conventional models only have a 4-pin tether, two pin positions are blank.  I just got in some matching 6-pin connectors to the locomotive tether connector as the K-Line 6-pin tethers are very scarce.  I'm also using one of my remaining Cruise Commander Lite boards.

Mine's a conventional model too. I've got several diesels up next for upgrades, and I just bought a pair of MTH S2's from the last Cabin Fever auction (a powered chassis and a dummy) that I want to do also.

And MAYBE I can get the F3's off the bench soon.

Bob

I'd do the diesels first and get used to the upgrades, the full up steam upgrades get a little more complicated at times.

Took a couple of my post war 3474 WP shells to the sink to rid them of 50 years of collected gunk ( well maybe 5 years of gunk and 45 years of accumulated storage ) . Now in the cold light of day, I can tell their earlier years of active play now need a little bit of silver you have up. Anybody know a close match to the Lionel Silver? Product name and color number would be appreciated.
rich

Little upgrade the two Virginian and C&O K-Line Allegheny engines I picked up at York.  Both now have Cruise M boards and repacked the smoke units.

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

I'd do the diesels first and get used to the upgrades, the full up steam upgrades get a little more complicated at times.

I can imagine that they do. Especially in a small frame and tender shell. I thought I had all the room in the world inside the F3 shell...boy was I wrong.....

@jstraw124, I believe I have the same workbench from Harbor Freight.  I covered the holes with small pieces of masking tape when I grew frustrated with small parts finding their way into them and often disappearing.

I'd certainly have to fill those holes, that would drive me nuts!

The holes are why I own this bench.  It’s actually made in Sweden.  Primary use of my bench is for woodworking and the holes really help when clamping boards for my hand tools.  This is a pic of the other end of the bench with cherry pieces ready for finish and assembly into a arts and craft style book cabinet.

I have a similar workbench with holes, but it's in the woodworking shop and not used for working on stuff with tiny parts.

My table for working on trains is currently buried under a bunch of trains.  Result of in progress of  building a layout.  

Installed a side frame to a Lionel GP9 I picked up on the cheap, because it was missing the side frame.  Ordered one that Trainz had as part of a bigger order, but did not look close enough.  Pic 1 is the power truck sideframe, and that is what I got.  It has more metal that extends up and over the edges of the motor plate.  I had to cut out a bit of metal, Pic 2  to make it look and fit like the non-power truck, drilled and tapped it for 6-32X 1/4 screws.  Once the metal is removed, it is very easy to place the truck on the frame using the other side as a reference to position and mark for the screw holes.  The side frame metal is quite hard, I would have thought the drill needed for tapping the 6-32 hole would go through like butter, but it did not.  Had to drill a pilot hole first.  Tap went in no problem, Pic 2a. A bit of Sharpie black added to help hide the cut area and screws, but I need to do a bit better on that with some paint Pic 3.  None of this is visible so was not too concerned.   Pic 4 is the truck installed, and looks just like the original on the other side.   Pic 5 is the coupler spring and new retaining washer which was missing on the truck.  One of the best deals around is the Harbor Freight 'Box-O-Springs' for about 5 bucks.  All kinds in there, and one fit this situation with just a trim with wire cutters.  you will be amazed how many times you will go to that box of springs to fix something, not realizing how many things with springs you have in your life.

Sometimes, a break from the loco (muy loco, at times) project is needed. I had some late 50's A-N aluminum kits. Those "Tin Plate" trucks and couplers were great. Too bad Progress goes the wrong way, so, so often. Except for the brake details underneath, there is not one bit of plastic in this car.

Nice D!….I despise being T/A’ed to the car shops,….I’d rather be beaten with that flat car!..

Pat

My K-Line A-5 is off the workbench!  It's alive!

It got the works, fan driven smoke, TMCC cruise, RailSounds, Super-Chuffer, Chuff-Generator, and all LED lighting.  For the astute observers, you'll note that it has two chuffs/rev, that was deliberate.  I want to triple head it with my other two that don't have the Chuff-Generator, so they only have two chuffs/rev.  Until they get upgraded, I figured I could just run this so it matches, I can reprogram it anytime for 4-chuffs.

                                                                #2251 BAR

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

My K-Line A-5 is off the workbench!  It's alive!

It got the works, fan driven smoke, TMCC cruise, RailSounds, Super-Chuffer, Chuff-Generator, and all LED lighting.  For the astute observers, you'll note that it has two chuffs/rev, that was deliberate.  I want to triple head it with my other two that don't have the Chuff-Generator, so they only have two chuffs/rev.  Until they get upgraded, I figured I could just run this so it matches, I can reprogram it anytime for 4-chuffs.

Runs great John. You made quick work of that upgrade. I need to find time to get to my bench......

Actually just off the bench. I like how this turned out. Typical of early H0 Bachmann, it was super glossy. Took it apart and gave it a coat of flat. It was also supposed to be a 2-8-0 but my guess is it kept derailing so the pilot truck was removed. Runs and smokes decent for an oldie.

Steve

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

My K-Line A-5 is off the workbench!  It's alive!

It got the works, fan driven smoke, TMCC cruise, RailSounds, Super-Chuffer, Chuff-Generator, and all LED lighting.  For the astute observers, you'll note that it has two chuffs/rev, that was deliberate.  I want to triple head it with my other two that don't have the Chuff-Generator, so they only have two chuffs/rev.  Until they get upgraded, I figured I could just run this so it matches, I can reprogram it anytime for 4-chuffs.

Cool John !!!

I thought my walls were saturated with train shelves, but I needed just a little more near my display of 26 postwar 6464's, I outgrew it with my last two purchases. I found a little space next to it - enough for a mini-display that can hold four 6464's.

On my workbench this morning was this mini-display case/shelving unit:

I finished it as the day went on - here it is on the wall:

My train room' walls, as well as under the layout (like skirting) are covered with display shelving all made the same way. 4 inch furring strip wood sanded and stained an oak color. This new unit cost me less than $3.00.

Here are a couple other pics of this inexpensive shelving:

@Lionelski posted:

I thought my walls were saturated with train shelves, but I needed just a little more near my display of 26 postwar 6464's, I outgrew it with my last two purchases. I found a little space next to it - enough for a mini-display that can hold four 6464's.

On my workbench this morning was this mini-display case/shelving unit:

I finished it as the day went on - here it is on the wall:

My train room' walls, as well as under the layout (like skirting) are covered with display shelving all made the same way. 4 inch furring strip wood sanded and stained an oak color. This new unit cost me less than $3.00.

Here are a couple other pics of this inexpensive shelving:

Looks like you had room for one more shelf (one more 6464) on the bottom John.

@coach joe posted:

Looks like you had room for one more shelf (one more 6464) on the bottom John.

LOL Coach Joe

Yea, I really only needed space for 2 recent purchases, but bult the four 6464 one to allow for future purchases!

Still need 6464-325 B&O Sentinel but not for the $600 plus price I see them going for.

I'll be patient and, sooner or later, I'll get one at a super bargain like the rest of mine. I refuse to pay more than $250 for a stupid boxcar!

I'm 2 railing/ repainting / patching an MTH RK American Diesel Electric Crane and Premier flat car for my RR Construction Co.  I still need to build a boom rest and other accessories for the flat car.  The flat car doghouse was made with a laser engraver using chip board.