WHAT’S ON THE WORKBENCH AT THE MOMENT

Yikes @RSJB18!

What size LEDs make the flickering fire up? I'm guessing they're smaller than the 1.8mm LEDs?

Wow....the wire lead connections sound really fragile!

You do realize you can buy 3mm flickering LED's in various colors and roll-your-own without having to use solid #32 wire, right?

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

You do realize you can buy 3mm flickering LED's in various colors and roll-your-own without having to use solid #32 wire, right?

Yes but try and fit 3- 3mm leds in a 4mm barrel........

Obviously more than one way to skin a cat.......

@RSJB18 posted:

Yes but try and fit 3- 3mm leds in a 4mm barrel........

I have a press!

@Junior,

Thanks.  Yep, I had to install a collector and ground strap, and that was the hardest part.  Refer to this thread for more info.  If I had to do it again, I would look for a junker car on the bay that had collectors already installed.  The hard part for that would be to make sure that truck could be installed on the frame.  I had to take the shell off, but it was a piece of cake for this car.  The outer frame had tabs that fit into slots in the frame.

The first set of Fire LEDs I got from Evans Design were the pico, like Bob used in his picture.  They're really small and could easily fit in my barrel.  After my first failed attempt I went to the nano size, definitely bigger but still small enough to fit after enlarging the access hole.  I ended up using two of the 3 LED strings in the barrel.  I just went straight to two strings, I didn't even try one, and I now think that one could have worked.  Interestingly, the light output from the pico is about the same as the nano.

@RSJB18,

Thanks.  I have banana fingers so working with small stuff is not something I do well.  I'm glad you pointed out the Fire LEDs from Evans, it looks great.  The flickering looks so much better seeing it in the car.  The original iPhone video on the phone looks pretty good, but the movie that got posted here is marginal.

I yanked the factory EOB setup in my 3rd Rail Southern Pacific MT-5. It always ran jerky at low speed and overall wasn't enjoyable to run. I replaced it with an ERR Cruise Commander and a RS 5.5 (early Legacy) GS4 sound board. 100% improvement in operation and it actually sounds like a SP steam locomotive now.

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

I have a press!

LOL! Old electrician's joke- sending the helper out to get the U-lamp bender to convert a 4' fluorescent lamp in to a u-6 for a 2' fixture.......

@Junior posted:

Yikes @RSJB18!

What size LEDs make the flickering fire up? I'm guessing they're smaller than the 1.8mm LEDs?

Wow....the wire lead connections sound really fragile!

Here's a video I took during testing with a good view of the wires below the barrel. As John said, 32 ga solid is tiny stuff.

@Lou1985 posted:

I yanked the factory EOB setup in my 3rd Rail Southern Pacific MT-5. It always ran jerky at low speed and overall wasn't enjoyable to run. I replaced it with an ERR Cruise Commander and a RS 5.5 (early Legacy) GS4 sound board. 100% improvement in operation and it actually sounds like a SP steam locomotive now.

Very Cool @Lou1985!

Was the Lionel Legacy sound board a “plug and play” onto the ERR board?

@RSJB18 posted:

Here's a video I took during testing with a good view of the wires below the barrel. As John said, 32 ga solid is tiny stuff.

Yeah….very tiny wires. I’m surprised Evans didn’t used flexible silicon covered wires. Guess solid wire is cheaper? IMHO flexible wire would’ve help mitigate the chances of breaking a lead off of those tiny LEDs.

Thanks for all the great follow up!

@Junior posted:

Very Cool @Lou1985!

Was the Lionel Legacy sound board a “plug and play” onto the ERR board?

I'm using an ERR Cruise Commander with the old ERR RS 4.0 powered motherboard, which had a RS 4.0 board that plugged into the motherboard. I just removed the RS 4.0 board and plugged in the RS 5.5 board, no other changes.

The RS boards I used are all old, no longer available components, so you would have to scrounge around to find them. You can't connect any of the currently available Legacy RS components from Lionel to the ERR Cruise Commander.   

@Lou1985 posted:

I'm using an ERR Cruise Commander with the old ERR RS 4.0 powered motherboard, which had a RS 4.0 board that plugged into the motherboard. I just removed the RS 4.0 board and plugged in the RS 5.5 board, no other changes.

The RS boards I used are all old, no longer available components, so you would have to scrounge around to find them. You can't connect any of the currently available Legacy RS components from Lionel to the ERR Cruise Commander.   

Wow!! You're a mind reader too?!! You knew exactly where I was heading.

This started life as a K-Line B&A Berkshire. When Lionel released the engine they redesigned the chassis to fit a large Pittman or Canon motor. The shell fits the Lionel chassis without modification. Rather than trying to modify the K-Line chassis for a larger motor its a no brainer to use Lionels. Now with a Pittman and fan driven smoke unit this is how it runs.

This engine came with an incredible amount of detail but was missing a few items.

Added were class lamp lenses, scale pilot wheels, cab apron, cab curtains, drawbar to help close the gap and a whistle.

Thanks to forum members Gary Superwarp and Mario Centralfan1976 for pointing out that missing whistle.

Pete

First post on this thread in almost a month. I guess everyone's trains are working perfectly!

I got back to my RS-27 with zinc-rotted trucks yesterday. I installed the new trucks and put the chassis back together. Engine fires right up, sounds start, but it still won't move. I even left it for a while to make sure all the caps and BCR were charged up.

Back to the drawing board at this point. Gotta go through the boards and check for loose wires/ plugs.

Bob

I need to spend weeks at my work bench. The last time I was in the train room I was getting a PW steam engine for my son to run at his home. I went through 3 engines and tenders before I found a good pair. 🥵 If I put all the engines needing work around my work bench it would look like my mechanic’s yard. 😱

@RSJB18 posted:

First post on this thread in almost a month. I guess everyone's trains are working perfectly!

I got back to my RS-27 with zinc-rotted trucks yesterday. I installed the new trucks and put the chassis back together. Engine fires right up, sounds start, but it still won't move. I even left it for a while to make sure all the caps and BCR were charged up.

Back to the drawing board at this point. Gotta go through the boards and check for loose wires/ plugs.

Bob

That’s frustrating 🤔

@RSJB18 posted:

First post on this thread in almost a month. I guess everyone's trains are working perfectly!

I got back to my RS-27 with zinc-rotted trucks yesterday. I installed the new trucks and put the chassis back together. Engine fires right up, sounds start, but it still won't move. I even left it for a while to make sure all the caps and BCR were charged up.

Back to the drawing board at this point. Gotta go through the boards and check for loose wires/ plugs.

Bob

Hey Bob, it might be just like a Ford and need a little nudge when the power is on to get it going~! LOL

Good Luck, I hope it's an easy fix!

I purchased this used Williams 44 tonner originally in Union Pacific decor. The Rio Grande's were black and yellow. I printed black and clear on Microscale yellow and used yellow numbers from their early RG diesel sets. An ERR minicommander 2 works well. Installing Kadees was not as bad as electrocouplers, but it was no cakewalk. Winterized window, side louvers, and side reflectors finished it off.

A better question might be, what *isn't* on the workbench at the moment!

In addition to all the maintenance and repair projects from the main layout that have backed up (most of which I intend to continue to ignore, for now!), recently I've been wrestling with a whole new master project -- repurposing my old "test layout" (nee my original around-the-tree layout from three decades ago) into an animation showcase of sorts. It already has a newly installed loop of track (added to accommodate my recently-acquired GG-1) with siding, and an upgraded MTH operating McDonalds. The plan is to remove the track and everything else, install a layer of foam board and paper-backed grass, then repopulate the layout with the new track and an assortment of additional animated pieces.

In anticipation of beginning this project, in the last month or two I've been buying a bunch of used animated pieces, some in marginal condition. For instance, I acquired a Menards burnt engine shed (like this one, listed on eBay) which had non-functional lights, so I bought six Evan Design flickering orange LEDs and installed them among the 'embers' inside the burnt building, and am in the process of adding an ultrasonic transducer to simulate 'smoke' rising from the 'embers'. Next, I bought an MTH Citgo operating station (like this one), which lit up and the bay door opened and closed when tested, but the '57 Chevy refused to move between the bay and pumps as designed. At the same time, I also acquired a K-Line Starlite operating diner (like this one), with a separate lighted and animated billboard promoting the diner (something like this one, only with "Starlite Diner" on the billboard). The lights on the billboard were broken loose (quickly repaired with a few dabs of superglue), but both the lights and animation worked as advertised. Similarly, the lights and sound worked on the diner, but no smoke -- odd, since the lights dim a bit when the smoke feature is activated, but no visible smoke or indication the unit is heating.

Tonight I finished evaluating the pieces and decided where they would fit best on the layout, and also tentatively decided to redo the layout and install the pieces as-is, without waiting to first repair what's still non-functional, in order to get it ready in time for a family holiday get-together later this upcoming week. I'll post pics here or on a separate thread as progress warrants -- stay tuned!

[Oh, and today I also completed the replacement of my home-brew thunder and lightning system with its original inspiration, the recently restocked BLI Lightning & Thunder set, which I was able to pick up at a decent discount! The Arduino components from my version will be recycled into another animation project -- at least that's the current plan!]

@Steve Tyler- that's quite a list......

I solved the problem with my RS27 last night. Helps when you read the operating instructions (don't tell my wife). I had to do a reset of the boards. I haven't worked with a older QSI PS1 engine in a while and they only require about 10v. I'm used to PS2's and 3's that need higher voltage to start up.

After the reset the engine behaved as it should. I can finally get this off my bench!

Bob

Morning guys I see your all busy and having fun at the same time!

@Steve Tyler Steve that sure sounds like a lot to do! That could take me a full year! LOL

@RSJB18 Bob, I am glad you got it figured out! I was guessing it wouldn't be too hard for you, but then again, I also didn't thing you needed instructions! LOL Looks like a real smooth runner!

@RSJB18 posted:

First post on this thread in almost a month. I guess everyone's trains are working perfectly!

I got back to my RS-27 with zinc-rotted trucks yesterday. I installed the new trucks and put the chassis back together. Engine fires right up, sounds start, but it still won't move. I even left it for a while to make sure all the caps and BCR were charged up.

Back to the drawing board at this point. Gotta go through the boards and check for loose wires/ plugs.

Bob

NICE  GOING  BOB............

.........you provoked me into running my RK  ps3  Clinfield  Challenger with that talk about everyone's trains must be running perfectly  ......

I dragged the steamer out and ran it around the layout and found that it kept stopping and sometimes shutting down completely. 

I though it happened only on some of my curves ( O31s )  but then it stoppped on a straight track in my long tunnel  .

I was fortunate in having the UP and WM challengers to help track down the problem by isolating the tender as the problem by switching tenders.     

PROBLEM .....one of the speaker wires was frayed and a couple strands of the wire were touching the speaker frame .   The speaker wires were zip tied to the main harness and I think the occasional  movement of the harness finally worked on the offending speaker wire........ I guess I was lucky since a speaker frame shorted to the tender floor has been reported to blow a board.

The Clincfield now runs flawlessly.     I can't wait to see how your non- runner gets ffixed.

Have a good one Bob.   God speed.

@RSJB18 posted:

@Steve Tyler- that's quite a list......

I solved the problem with my RS27 last night. Helps when you read the operating instructions (don't tell my wife). I had to do a reset of the boards. I haven't worked with a older QSI PS1 engine in a while and they only require about 10v. I'm used to PS2's and 3's that need higher voltage to start up.

After the reset the engine behaved as it should. I can finally get this off my bench!

Bob

YAAAAAY ......BOB.   .

@Dallas Joseph posted:

YAAAAAY ......BOB.   .

Thanks Dallas,

Consider yourself lucky that the speaker wire didn't take the boards out.

Bob

A mess!

@mike g. posted:

@Steve Tyler Steve that sure sounds like a lot to do! That could take me a full year! LOL

Well, hold on to your hat, 'cause I had another over-the-top day (at least by my current standards!) . . .

First, having stripped the test layout of track and everything else, I lifted it off the sawhorses that I'd been using to elevate the formerly floor-level layout to mid-level height (about 32"), then installed 2X3 legs using lag bolts. The layout is ridiculously overbuilt, using 2X4's in a slide-together, two section format for the originally around-the-tree layout (which I screwed together when I repurposed it for permanent use a few years ago), and is correspondingly very heavy and hard to lift, but I persisted. Next, I covered the top with half-inch foam board, cutting and fitting the 4 X 8 sheet to fit the 6 X 5-1/2 top (using part of a half-inch styrofoam sheet to fill the shortfall, for those math nerds who might have otherwise objected that a 32 square foot sheet couldn't possibly cover a 33 square foot surface! ):

Then, I opened and unrolled the roll of Bachmann paper-backed grass sheet I'd bought earlier. Math being what it is, I *was* able to cut and piece the 100 by 50 inch sheet to cover the top. Unlike my main layout, I did not fold the grass mat around the edges and staple it under the top, but rather will use spray adhesive to adhere the mat to the foam sheet, and also rely on the split foam insulation tubes around the edges( as seen in the pics below). Pending such attachment, I put weights on top, to help uncurl the mat.

In a last burst of energy, I returned the track and accessories to the top of the layout, in a sort of test fit to find the desired location of all the animated pieces:

Tomorrow (the good Lord willin' and the tide don't rise!), I plan to finalize and mark the location of the accessory pieces on the mat, then remove them in order to cut through the mat and underlying foam board so the accessories can be recessed into the surface (most have thick fixed bases, which I want to try to 'disappear'). Then, I'll glue the foam board down to the top and use spray adhesive to adhere the grass mat to cover it. I'll then reinstall the foam edge, track and accessories, and wire everything up. Stay tuned . . .

@Mike D posted:

A mess!

Looks like a FUN MESS  Mike.

(  I get an anxious feeling when I have a clear workbench. )

Bob you are going to put a body shell on the RS27 before taking it off the work bench?

@coach joe posted:

Bob you are going to put a body shell on the RS27 before taking it off the work bench?

AND COVER UP ALL MY HARD WORK???????????

Yea- next chance I get. maybe tonight. The screws on this one are kind of buried under the trucks.  A bit of a PITA but we will keep calm and O Gauge on.

@Steve Tyler- An ambitious project to say the least.

@Mike D- What are those little tiny trains doing on you bench??????

       @Mike D- What are those little tiny trains doing on you bench??????

@RSJB18  Bob - just where do you think all the big trains come from ??? 

  The car will be lettered for Fort Worth & Denver Rwy.

The trucks are Weaver.

@ScoutingDad posted:

       @Mike D- What are those little tiny trains doing on you bench??????

@RSJB18  Bob - just where do you think all the big trains come from ???

You beat me to it!

@Dallas Joseph posted:

Looks like a FUN MESS  Mike.

(  I get an anxious feeling when I have a clear workbench. )

Not much fun anymore. With time comes more stuff to do and more stuff to fix. Building and repairing is now a chore, but worth the effort when it's all done.

I actually get happy when I don't have anything on the work bench. With all the stuff I have to build, upgrade and repair that won't be happening anytime soon.

Well, more progress on the animation showcase layout makeover -- after outlining the location of the animation pieces yesterday, I cut through the grass mat and foam board, and removed the cutouts:

I then removed the grass mat and foam board sections, and used the adhesive (the tubes shown above) to adhere the foam board to the original OSB and plywood top (visible above through the cutouts). After letting the adhesive set up overnight, today I tackled sticking the grass mat down atop the foam board. In spite of the spray can stating it covers 75 square feet, more than twice the less than 33 square feet I needed to adhere, I ran low on spray adhesive about 2/3rds through the biggest piece of the mat, with no spare! I did the best I could with what I had, knowing I didn't have time to get another can before the adhesive set up.

Bottom line: it more or less worked, albeit with a few wrinkles and less-than-perfectly-adhered sections of grass mat. After effecting what repairs I could, I reinstalled the foam edging and test-fit the animation pieces and other equipment on the layout:

Tomorrow I plan to complete the fitting of the animation pieces (mostly, trimming the edges and adding spacers to recess the bases into the foam), re-lay the track, and start wiring everything up. With all the additional pieces I'm adding, I ordered a terminal block to help distribute auxiliary power to the various items needing it, and it should arrive tomorrow. The wheels I added to the ends of the new legs are working well, and removing the sawhorses I used before to support the layout will, in the short term, allow better access underneath to do the wiring, and. in the longer term, provide additional storage space. Dunno if it will all get done by our scheduled Christmas Eve family get-together, but if not, I'll know the reason why!

Looks good, Steve, but you are certainly cutting it close!  

After finishing my most recent project (see: Standard Gauge "Junk" to a Observation Car Tribute (warrenvillerailroad.com) , I cleaned off the workbench for four more winter projects:

I think that the Milwaukee Road passenger car will become a diner, the "mint" car will be redone in a Warrenville RR livery, the searchlight caboose maybe Union Pacific and the Standard Gauge caboose into a patriotic red-white-blue scheme.

So one more trip to the bench......had to replace the speaker. Fortunately I had a 8 ohm 48mm speaker in my spare inventory. It came out of a K-line MP-15 from their old horn board set up.

Now it's done!

Bob

So how much time went into this Bob?

Jay

@Tranquil Hollow RR posted:

So how much time went into this Bob?

Jay

Way too much time when into trying to rescue the old trucks. The new ones went in pretty fast. The couple programming issues worked themselves out, and the speaker swap took about 1/2 hour.

I started messing with it on October 3rd..........

@RSJB18 posted:

I started messing with it on October 3rd..........

And I thought some of my projects were slow!