Where to send 3rd Rail locomotives for work?

Have you taken the body shell off and checked the drive belt and driveshaft assembly? Smooth as 3rdRail’s horizontal motor drive train can be that’s where noise and binding issues can arise.

Failing that email Scott Mann at sdmann@3rdrail.com for a repair recommendation. He has his own repair people but may be able to direct you to someone local to you.

The best suggestion is to contact Sunset Models / 3rd Rail unless you have a local hobby store that has someone who has experience working on current production locomotives. I know from experience the people at Sunset Models are good people so unless you can find someone local contact them. Where are you located because I have 2 local hobby stores that each have a repair person that could help you out. Each is in Westchester County, NY. If you want to contact me at: edmickey@optonline.net and I can send you contact information.

Ed New Haven Line

As suggested above by Hancock52, try taking the shell off and then then run the model slowly. You should be able to hear & see where the "grinding noise" is coming from.

Thanks for the replies. Truthfully I'm unsure taking the body off. I removed the fuel tank exposing the drive shafts and belt. There are two small screws up front that go through the pilot, one even smaller one in between those  and two larger screws in the rear. Is there any trick to getting the shell off these? I've only ever worked on MTH/Lionel 

Royz Trains in Grew, Michigan is a 3rd Rail Service Station.  Roy Aydelotte is an excellent technician.  Does beautiful work.  Check out his web site.

Correction on address:  NOT GREW, THE TOWN IS GRAWN, MICHIGAN

Roy sets up right next to us in the Orange Hall at the TCA York meets at the location that was formerly Weaver Models. Highly recommended for repairs.

R. Heil - Sunset Models / 3rd Rail

I second Roy’s trains. Does excellent work !!!!

Since you have the tanks off, check the drive shafts. The E7 has a plastic universal assembly that can fail with age; I had one that sounded like yours as it failed. Scott sells a metal replacement assembly that costs about $30 for the pair. Replacement is an easy operation.

@Surefire posted:

Thanks for the replies. Truthfully I'm unsure taking the body off. I removed the fuel tank exposing the drive shafts and belt. There are two small screws up front that go through the pilot, one even smaller one in between those  and two larger screws in the rear. Is there any trick to getting the shell off these? I've only ever worked on MTH/Lionel 

I would not second guess the recommendation of Roy's Trains coming as it does direct from @rheil.

I have not had to take the shell off my GM TofT but it looks very similar to my other 3rd Rail E series engines that I have had apart. The very small screw in the middle of the front has to come out to release the pilot; otherwise there will be 6-8 main body screws, two at the front and back and other another pair or two in the middle. This is not unlike most Lionel/MTH diesels but the most challenging thing is getting it all back together without pinching any wires. Or breaking any in the process of either taking the shell off or putting it back on. My 3rd Rail diesels all have a nest of wires in the nose for the head/number/cab lights. How they crammed them all in on assembly at the factory I cannot guess. 

Thank you all. I'll get in touch with Roy

@Surefire posted:

Thank you all. I'll get in touch with Roy

@Surefire I'd be interested to know what he finds and has to do to fix it. These drive trains work extremely well when they are good condition but I think that diagnosing and repairing them is more troublesome than with conventional "China drive" (vertically mounted) motors. That's just my experience, however.

A few additional thoughts... as you examine the drive shaft, look at the 'fork' part of the universal joint. As they fail the fork spreads, gets out of alignment. This is all accessible with the tanks off. If need be, the plastic drive shaft is a pressed fit on the truck drive shaft, ease it off with a screwdriver blade. The replacement slides on easily, fastens with a set screw.

Jan