Which rail to connect Railking crossing signal with sound

Seth, as you're probably aware, with Gargraves track, from the factory, the two outside/ outer rails are already isolated from each other.  However, other connections such as feed wires, turnouts, crossovers, train wheels, etc. can electrically bridge the outer rails together elsewhere on a layout.  To provide isolated rail activation, a section or sections of track will need one of the outer rails completely isolated at both ends.  This can be done by removing rail joiners from the two ends of the activation section(s) of track, but only on one side/ outer rail.  Where the rail joiners are removed, also ensure that there is a physical gap, where electrical current will not flow across it.  Gargraves #800 Insulating Pins are a good option.

If you don't want to disturb your already laid and ballasted track, instead of removing/replacing joining pins, one of the outer rails can be isolated by cutting a small gap thru the rail at each end of the activation section.

Once you've done this, it's a good idea to verify that there is no conductivity across the joints my measuring the resistance across each side of the gap using a meter.

At that point, the black wire feeding both signals can be soldered to the now isolated outer rail. This will allow the passing train wheels to complete the circuit from the outer rail that was already connected to your transformer's Common to the isolated outer rail and then to the crossing signals.

Steve, pretty much covered it as to how it works. Where you cut the rails depends on where you want the lights and sounds to trip on and off. Seeing your track is already ballasted. I would go with a Dremel and cut off wheel. Looking at the picture. The turnout should have an isolated rail just after the frog. So it may only involve one cut if that will work as far as length. Still a lot depends on how the track power feeders are wired up. After the rail is cut. I would find a piece of styrene strip that fits snug in the gap and glue it in place. Trim it out with a file to match the railhead. Or you can just leave it with the gap. With ballasted track it’s not likely to shift around.

Thank you very much @Dave C and @Steve H.  I have received your comments and saved them for reference when I get back to my layout.  If I have any other questions I will connect with you again.

It may be a few days that I am back on the layout. 

Seth

@Steve H and @Dave C

I was back in the layout room tonight(Friday) and I have decided (or selected ☺️) which rail is the outside.  

It’s difficult for me since this is the return track that runs across the center of the layout

Then I was attempting to decide just where the cut for the isolation should be.

I have placed a switch engine at the crossing with 5 Madison’s  passengers connected and hopefully this will help determine.

And now I have quit, not to make an important decision this late of hour @ 9:30pm.

You really need to determine at what point you want the signal to activate. Depending on the size of the layout and the speed you travel will give you some input. The slower you travel the later you can allow for the trigger point if you want it to look realistic. You don’t really want the lights flashing right as you get to the crossing. Generally a few feet before.
Not sure as to your layout as far as a continuous run if there is one. You don’t want it so long that the train is coming around again and there is very little break in the action.

My one set of signals are made by Tomar. I used an Azatrax board and their IR sensors. No rail cutting. If your using Gargraves you just need to drill some holes in the roadbed. Their site if you search around and see all the different scenarios you can get them to work realistically on a single track no matter what direction your traveling. Plenty of warning time for motorist and they stop flashing right after the last car passes. The only thing is it comes with a price. Where what your doing is pretty much with a one wire hook up.

www.azatraxcom

picture of the installed sensors.

I second the suggestion of Azatrax detectors unless you insist on using the rail.

I went with Azatrax D2T-DS detectors and have the same railking crossing gates.  My sensors are across the track detecting 2 trains on 2 tracks in either direction.

Easy hookup ,work great and are affordable.

Although I haven't actually used IR detectors for signalling control, I have seen here on the forum where some people have had reliability issues when they are installed in bright light.  At the top of the picture posted in the top pf this thread, there is a window visible.

With the Crossing Signal being so close to this direct source of sunlight, either insulated rail or an Ultrasonic sensor may provide more reliable triggering options.

The Azatrax sensors are an i.r. transistor and receiver, different from the reflective i.r. detectors from MTH Lionel  and Z stuff.

Operation is far more reliable and less light sensative.  I don't see anything in Seth's photo that would create an issue.

I highly recommend Azatrax sensors.  

I use Azatrax IR sensors in spots where there are bright can lamps overhead shining down on them; zero issues! they work flawlessly. And if for some reason you find some type of interference, the Azatrax board has the option of placing the emitter and receiver horizontally across the track as an option.

@Steve H and @Dave C

i just wanted you to know the isolated rail method is now working via the cut in the outside rail. As of last night, Thursday, I find the Railking crossing signal works with engine travel from both directions points East and West. I’m satisfied.

During all my attempts of connecting via the isolated rail method I was experiencing an issue with the switch located over my tunnel.  
After several methods attempted I finally resolved the issue of the switch locked in a closed setting.  I did everything except replace the switch. It’s now working properly along with the crossing signal.

since the grass is so wet here today I believe I will now install a second RAILking crossing signal.
I think I must construct a couple of equipment sheds/structures to conceal the Railking speakers for the signals.

thanks so much guys for your assistance.

Seth

Seth I’m glad you got the signal working to your satisfaction.  Thanks for the update.

@SteveH

i have another road crossing and I wish to use Lionel 6-2162 with Gate And signal.

May I use the isolated track method to power and trigger the gate just as I did with the MTH Railking crossing flasher and sound?

would you instruct me on the method to connect wire from bottom of signal  connection #1to transformer power and from outside tail on track to bottom of signal connection # 2.

Am I thinking correctly???

Seth

Seth, yes the Lionel 6-2162 can be triggered with an insulated outside rail connection.  Also correct to connect its other terminal to one of the transformer’s Hot outputs or to the center rail.

Something else to consider with this accessory is that that is has a solenoid in it to operate the gate.  Aside from the buzzing noise it makes, it’s also a source of voltage spikes on the track every time it disengages.  This is fine for post war trains.  Can be damaging to modern train electronics.

Thanks for the warning.

I will not consider this crossing gate then.