I have a Williams F3 Unit that the drive wheel (the one with traction tires) has separated from the drive gear. What is the procedure to fix this issue? We’re the gears glued to the wheels? You can see in the attached short video that the wheel turns, but not the gear.
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No, the gear was not glued, it was press fit onto the shaft. You would have to press the wheel off, knurl the shaft, press the gear on, press the wheel on to the correct gauge width, and then hope the gear wasn't cracked.
Or replace the entire truck.
I would think that replacing the truck would be the best choice.
Refer to previous posting," William Truck Worm Gear Question". This will answer what has to be done, the brass helical gear is either cracked or the the press fit of the brass helical gear to the driver axle shaft as failed and the helical gear is free spinning.
Thanks for the replies. I am thinking that replacing the power is the best approaching to solving this issue.
Actually, if the gear was pressed onto the shaft, I'd think some retaining compound would be a possible solution.
@Big Hoss posted:Thanks for the replies. I am thinking that replacing the power is the best approaching to solving this issue.
A couple dabs of strategically placed LockTite or epoxy should solve this quickly.
@Big Hoss posted:I have a Williams F3 Unit that the drive wheel (the one with traction tires) has separated from the drive gear. What is the procedure to fix this issue? We’re the gears glued to the wheels? You can see in the attached short video that the wheel turns, but not the gear.
You may be able to use locktigh red, see if you can get a syringe to inject the red in them clamp the wheel to the gear. Red is used when you do not want to every take it apart. Blue is removable.
I suggest you don't try to use threadlocker on this, use the proper product! Loctite 660 Retaining Compound would probably be a good choice. You will have to pull the wheel and use the retaining compound on the gear and wheel shaft after thoroughly cleaning any grease, dirt, etc. off the parts. Trying to squirt the stuff in without cleaning it is a waste of time.
Here's the Williams Truck Worm Gear Question thread. And here's the solution that I used: post #1, post# 2.
Make sure to check if the gear wheel is cracked or otherwise damaged. Timko Repair Depot should have parts if you need them.
Edit to add: Vibra-Tite 530 on Amazon.
@Matt_GNo27 posted:Here's the Williams Truck Worm Gear Question thread. And here's the solution that I used: post #1, post# 2.
This problem shown in the video doesn't involve the worm gear.
@ADCX Rob posted:This problem shown in the video doesn't involve the worm gear.
Correct, but since it is a press fit gear on a shaft, the solution should be the same: disassemble, inspect for damage, replace parts if needed, clean, apply retaining compound, and reassemble.
@gunrunnerjohn posted:I suggest you don't try to use threadlocker on this, use the proper product! Loctite 660 Retaining Compound would probably be a good choice. You will have to pull the wheel and use the retaining compound on the gear and wheel shaft after thoroughly cleaning any grease, dirt, etc. off the parts. Trying to squirt the stuff in without cleaning it is a waste of time.
Agreed, …..trying to squirt compounds into a oily greasy part is just a band aid at best, ….and a sloppy one at that,…..if it even holds…..a proper repair with 640 or 660 as you suggest will provide a lot of longevity in the repair ….
Pat
Just find a good replacement truck. Used or off ebay is best. as Bachmann has limited parts and could care less about the Williams line.
the trucks are the same on all of the 4 wheel driven locomotives, NW@, GP9, F7, F3, Gp7, GP38, 44 tonner, Alco.
Here is the shown part you need on the Bachmann site if it is truly in stock.
@harleyhouse posted:Just find a good replacement truck. Used or off ebay is best. as Bachmann has limited parts and could care less about the Williams line.
the trucks are the same on all of the 4 wheel driven locomotives, NW@, GP9, F7, F3, Gp7, GP38, 44 tonner, Alco.
Here is the shown part you need on the Bachmann site if it is truly in stock.
If a sturdy repair can be made that you know will last, why replace it?……waste not, want not……
Pat
@harmonyards posted:If a sturdy repair can be made that you know will last, why replace it?……waste not, want not……
Absolutely. Get a good interference fit and/or LocTite bond of that wheel gear(293-M025DR3) to the axle(and/or wheel) and the repair is done. It could even be drilled & pinned very easily.
@ADCX Rob posted:Absolutely. Get a good interference fit and/or LocTite bond of that wheel gear(293-M025DR3) to the axle(and/or wheel) and the repair is done. It could even be drilled & pinned very easily.
Absolutely Rob, …..I was thinking along your lines,….to be sure if I had one come across my plate, that gear would be bolted to the wheel with countersunk 2mm screws,…..I’d like to see that kind of repair fail,…..probably no more than 20-30 minutes of work once the wheel is liberated from the axle ….
Pat
@harmonyards posted:Absolutely Rob, …..I was thinking along your lines,….to be sure if I had one come across my plate, that gear would be bolted to the wheel with countersunk 2mm screws,…..I’d like to see that kind of repair fail,…..probably no more than 20-30 minutes of work once the wheel is liberated from the axle ….
You wanna' see it fail? I have this 5# hammer... 
@gunrunnerjohn posted:You wanna' see it fail? I have this 5# hammer...
I’ll lay down good money your arms will tire out before those two screws even give a whimper…….😉
Pat
Thanks for all of your input. I have decided that the most likely way to achieve a successful repair is to order a new truck from Williams. I will however do some additional investigation of the broken truck. I have a strong suspicion that the drive gear is cracked and probably not re-useable. Does anyone know if it is possible to buy just the gear, part number 293-M025DR3. A search of the Williams website does not show this part *** being available.
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