Williams throws cars off in sharp curves

Sometimes you can bend the latch to the pin so it will hold the coupler closed. I just use black zip ties to hold them closed.

Sometimes these derailments can happen if you have a very short or light weight car directly behind the locomotive. Have you tried using a longer car, or adding some weight to offending cars?

I had a similar problem...the coupler on my nw-2 would drag on the bottom if the pilot on curves.  I just bent the latch to raise it up a bit.  Works fine now.

Same problem, but, similar to what NQDY suggested, I run a Williams or heavy car behind the loco.  My smallest curves are 034 (Marx).

Matt, I have the same problem and it's even worse on 027 curves. Yes, as some have mentioned, running a heavier car with die-cast trucks directly behind the loco does help, but not every time.

 

And it's not just these locos but even some of the K-Line locos with the plastic centering "spring" can be so stiff that they do the same thing: Derail the lead car of a train that is going forward.

 

RMT uses if not the same, then an extremely similar design. I don't have a digital camera, and I didn't see the part on the Williams web site. So I'll do my best to describe the picture.

 

There is a "T" shaped pin that is in the center of the coupler mount to the truck. Where the "T" pin sets in the truck, the top of this is shaped something akin to a roller coaster... high in the back, and rolling downward on the sides.

 

On the bottom of the "T" pin and beneath the coupler arm, there is a spring with a washer and "C" clip. The spring pressure is good for keeping the coupler closed, but between the spring and the shape of the top of the mounting... well by hand swing the coupler to the left then to the right and you will feel that it doesn't move easily.

 

I tried using a softer spring, which helps in the left to right swing of the coupler arm, but isn't enough to keep the coupler closed.

 

First tip I can offer is when you are not running the trains, take the coupler and push it to one side (left or right) all the way until it "locks" in place, and leave it like that for a few days. Then do this again only to the other side. Sometimes this will help loose the spring pressure just enough to help with to and fro coupler arm swing.

 

If this fails to help, I have done one of two things. Using a Dremel (and yes you have to disassemble things) I grind down the slope of the top of the coupler mounting where the "T" sits on top... the area that resembles the roller coaster. I take the slope down and make it more gradual.

 

The other thing I have done is to replace the "T" pin with a screw and in place of the "C" clip on the bottom, I use either a stop nut or a stop clip. You'll lose the automatic centering of the coupler, but the derailments will completely disappear, even with a lighter lead car with plastic trucks.

 

 

I have not had this type of thing with any of my Williams engines and Lionel or MTH.

 

I have had a problem with some 21 inch long Atlas passenger cars, one solution is to use a larger engine instead of a engine with two axles try an SD-45 or U-33C or an FM Morse Trainmaster, an engine with three axles per truck. The other solution is a larger curve like 054.

 

Lee Fritz

Well, the real problem is found in the terms "027" and "036"...geometry and

physics being what they are - the Laws of Nature - it's amazing that any O-gauge

trains can make it around these extreme curves. Even in HO, a 15" Radius is considered

tight - this translates to "030" in O-gauge! Think about it.

 

If at all possible, get bigger curves and many of your problems will simply go away.

 

But, to be a little helpful, as I have had an -occasional- "throw-off" even on my 072

layout, try to buy cars with the articulated couplers. These do tend to be the 

more high-end cars, but a nicer MTH (or Lionel, etc) Premier car with the articulated coupler is often capable of tighter curve-handling than a smaller RK, Williams, etc., car with the cheaper rigid coupler/truck design. Worth the extra bucks - and often low-priced on the secondary markets, anyway.

 

Voice of experience.

 

 

 

 

D500, the issue for me is I do not have space for larger than 027 (if I want an interesting layout). So within the limitations of 027 track, I have learned to make adjustments. I don't complain about it... I just do what I need to do to make the trains operate in a way that is pleasing.

 

Might seem like a lot of work (referring to my fixes). But I read plently of problems others have with nicer more expensive. larger radius track and more feature loaded trains alike. So the problems are not isolated to 027 track, albeit just different problems.

 

Also interesting to me, is that most postwar/MPC stuff advertised to run on 027 track, does and does well. It's only been in recent years where some items advertised to do as such, do so only with problems (the early version RMT Beeps are a good example). Gotta give those postwar Lionel engineers credit where credit is due.

Well, it looks like I've got a bit of a perfect storm going on here then...

 

O-27 curves, and lightweight cars.

 

I've tried filling a hopper car with 1/2lb of lead weights, but that was only marginally effective.

 

I also have some heavy MTH "scale size" freight cars that I've tried with the F3, but even those get tossed.

I have 0-27 curves and switches and have never experienced this problem with any of the 28 Williams engines I roster.  Included in that group are GP'9's; scale FA-1's, F-3's, GP-38's and the newer GP-30's.  I have had similar issues with MTH Railking F-3's, however. 

 

The MTH F-3 couplers have a similar centering mechanism to that described above by Brianel.  I have trimmed the width of the "T" and shortened the spring to resolve the problem.  A dab of Red 'n Tacky in the trough in which the T sets also helps.

 

Curt

 

 

I have not had a problem with any Williams engine throwing cars off, I am using 031 & 042 curves with my layout and changed over to Gargraves switches from the Lionel 6-23011 series switch. That Lionel switch is the only switch that I am not able to run any Williams engine through it, any other brand of engine is fine, so it is not a fiber pin problem!!

 

Lee Fritz