zap a gap glue dispeser issues

I use Bob Smith Industries cyanoacrylate glues.  The nozzles screw on to the bottle, and as thus are removable.  Maybe Zap-a-Gap does, too?

If the nozzle gets some glue on it during use, try and wipe it off with an old business card or other thin piece of cardboard that you can partially wrap around the nozzle.  Don't use paper towels or Kleenex's - they just make a hardened mess.  Keep the tip open with a pin or other sharp object.  Never snap the cap on until you've done this.

Regardless, the nozzles will sooner or later get a build up of gunk that makes it a little difficult to work with.  If so, remove the nozzle and throw it (and the nozzle cap if necessary) in a glass jar with some acetone in it.  Screw the metal lid on to prevent evaporation.  Lightly shake and swirl jar around a few times to help the acetone penetrate.  The acetone will dissolve the CA, and return the nozzle to like-new (or almost so) condition.  Although 10 minutes or so will usually do the trick, I've let nozzles and caps soak for days on end with no adverse affects on them.

It's handy to have a few extra nozzles and caps.  Sometimes the dealer will stock them.  Also, when your bottle is used up and/or done for, keep the nozzle and cap for a spare before pitching the bottle.  You can start building your own supply of extras that way.

Hope this helps.  I used a fair amount of CA glue when I built and flew RC airplanes a few decades ago. 

What Paul said, plus after each use I like to tap the bottom of the container to let the glue flow back into the container rather than stay in the nozzle and then I blow carefully into the tip to clear that area as well (sort of like blowing into a smokestack to clear a bubble).

StPaul:

I have been fighting this for years. I use Fast Cap GluBots for wood glue and their 2P-10 wood super glue. Maybe try the 4 oz 'babebot' with extra Yorker tips (https://www.fastcap.com/product/glubot-family).

I buy the 2P-10 in larger bottles so is easy to pure the CA into a glu-bot. I have yet to try the standard CA tube since the stuff comes out so slow. I normally guy the gel for this.

A small piece of brass  wire dipped in CA. then touch the brass/CA to the area to be glued.  Most porous material/plastic/wood will suck-up the CA rapidly.  Repeat if you think more is needed.  IMO, Mike CT. 

Attaching these small detail pieces, brass door handles, and the large bolt heads, wood under the door,  was done with the brass wire/CA application, as above. 

Joe Fauty posted:

StPaul:

I have been fighting this for years. I use Fast Cap GluBots for wood glue and their 2P-10 wood super glue. Maybe try the 4 oz 'babebot' with extra Yorker tips (https://www.fastcap.com/product/glubot-family).

I buy the 2P-10 in larger bottles so is easy to pure the CA into a glu-bot. I have yet to try the standard CA tube since the stuff comes out so slow. I normally guy the gel for this.

I know this doesn't help the OP but I also recommend Glubots for wood glue.  

Brendan

well took matters into a make your own tip! I had some deluxe materials syringes and metal tips and a 3/8 inch evergreen round hollow tubing drilled the old tube hole to allow the 3/8 inch tubing to slide into top of bottle and then filed the plastic area of tip so it could slide into the hollow 3/8 inch tubing and cleared a bread twisty so have 1-1/2 inches of metal to clear the metal tip after I use the zap a gap glue.

at least I can use it up until its all gone. I came across both model masters cement for plastic models and testors cement for plastic models the model masters cement has a plastic tip and the testors liquid cement has a metal tip so far neither one has plugged up after each use the masking tape is to keep lid over glue tip snug.