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@Junior posted:

Hmmmm.....maybe you could use it to make a little sausage ? D'oh!

wish I thought of this! Smoke unit replacement went fine. Motor is still noisy but at least I have smoke. Even took it apart again to add some oil to the motor to reduce the noise which worked for a bit but a day later back to noisy. I'm waving the white flag, at least it works, and the noise is nowhere near as bad as before and it is a motor. Almost stripped one of those little screws on the smoke unit board too. Good thing I always order more!

@MattD87 posted:

wish I thought of this! Smoke unit replacement went fine. Motor is still noisy but at least I have smoke. Even took it apart again to add some oil to the motor to reduce the noise which worked for a bit but a day later back to noisy. I'm waving the white flag, at least it works, and the noise is nowhere near as bad as before and it is a motor. Almost stripped one of those little screws on the smoke unit board too. Good thing I always order more!

Next time replace the smoke motor with one from MTH, I hear they are much quieter and last longer.

@Lou1985 posted:

MTH Premier Santa Fe E8 AB set with PS3. I had the shells and found a deal on a Seaboard E8 with PS3 and an E8B. Painted the trucks, fuel tank, and pilot silver (Tamiya TS30), swapped the shells, and loaded an E8 sound file modified to announce Santa Fe's Chicagoan. Easy, quick project.

20230218_15465220230218_154542

Maybe quick and easy for you Lou.......but the end product is really a very handsome product.

And after doing some work on an MTH Premier Pennsy E8 , I would say this is a long pair.   Nice job.

I bought a used Electroliner on discount knowing it had some paint issues. In this case there were drops of glue on it. I was able to get it off with my fingernail without any scratches.

Now however there are light green patches where the glue was. Any thoughts on what I can do to improve this?97101DE6-31D6-47AE-BAC1-17F8A20E0935

Perhaps use a small amount of car wax and buff the area lightly with a damp cloth. Just go lightly and see if the spots start to fade…

Tom

Taking some MTH 19th century freight cars and adding/changing some details along with some slight paint enhancements…

A stock MTH Philadelphia and Reading gondola/flat car with details added and the lettering touched up.

2214CD2B-A5D3-400F-8C42-65FD6958FB49

Another stock B&O MTH Reefer with added details and some weathering done with Vallejo washes…

E9F5029F-4C3F-403C-AF10-8408DFFFE05CFC54DD7A-B1E4-4837-89D2-B60279B78701

Finally,

This car was an experimental build using a MTH 34’ chassis and a Lionel tank, I shortened. After adding Wiseman archbar trucks with Weaver couplers and MTH wheel sets, it was painted and weathered.

The tank sits a bit high, so I will be replacing the balsa desking with styrene and lowering it at the same time…

51974025-3BEC-45DB-B9C2-BFD8167832B5

Tom

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Last edited by Krieglok
@woodsyT posted:

Does UNDER the workbench count?

I'm preparing the 'infrastructure' for my layout 😉

I'm employing a leftover cabinet from a renovation project to house much of the wires and 'intestines' of this table.

Control panel wire box

The cabinet looks great...nice example of recycling! Love the lights in the cabinet as well...those LEDs? It looks pretty evenly lit.

@Junior posted:

...nice example of recycling! Love the lights in the cabinet as well...those LEDs?...

Yes. After working with a headlight for a day, I slapped two LED strips behind the door jamb to light up the wire cabinet - left over from a work/tool truck trim out. Also has a 'bonus feature' with a door switch. Anytime you open it the wire cabinet and under table lights come on together. 🙄😜🤘

All I need now is a switch that flips the table upside down to make the rest of the wiring easier on my knees and back 😜🤣

Last edited by woodsyT

Just dipping my toe in the Blunami pond. This part was incredibly easy. Using a 5 amp buck convertor to drive the Blunami board. Motor and speaker terminals provided. Surprisingly the BEMF derived chuff is already very close but can be adjusted if need be. Engine is MTH built from parts. To drive a smoke fan a cam or other way to detect driver rotation like an optical sensor will be required. Also I have to learn how to pair function outputs with sound effects like coupler opening.

The buzz in the background is from my space heater under the table.


Pete

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Last edited by Norton

Just finished a Interurban using a Lionel 710 Pullman and misc repro parts. I used power trucks from a K-Line S-2 switcher.

Steve

1750EAA3-E27F-4805-B8D7-C82165125891

Here you goD4BC31F3-F111-47FA-B6E9-FD7EF30B0A6C4D21C7C9-E118-4D8B-8082-FF75A12CE773

@RSJB18 posted:

With K-line motors I bet this thing can boogie!

Steve - thanks for the additional photos.

The K-Line S-2 seems to be a frequent donor for smaller motorized projects.  I'm not familiar with that engine - why is it such a popular choice?

@Norton posted:

Just dipping my toe in the Blunami pond. This part was incredibly easy. Using a 5 amp buck convertor to drive the Blunami board. Motor and speaker terminals provided. Surprisingly the BEMF derived chuff is already very close but can be adjusted if need be. Engine is MTH built from parts. To drive a smoke fan a cam or other way to detect driver rotation like an optical sensor will be required. Also I have to learn how to pair function outputs with sound effects like coupler opening.

The buzz in the background is from my space heater under the table.




Pete

I use @gunrunnerjohn's chuff generator and super chuffer 2 for my steamers. You can get them here.  I'm just getting started on a Williams GS-4, it will  be my 4th DCC conversion but my first steamer. I plan on using a solid state power switch so I can turn the smoke on or off by remote. Stay tuned! Will post it soon I hope! For setting CV's the blunami app is pretty good, but I use decoder pro mostly since I have a Digitrax DCC system.

@Darrell posted:

I use @gunrunnerjohn's chuff generator and super chuffer 2 for my steamers. You can get them here.  I'm just getting started on a Williams GS-4, it will  be my 4th DCC conversion but my first steamer. I plan on using a solid state power switch so I can turn the smoke on or off by remote. Stay tuned! Will post it soon I hope! For setting CV's the blunami app is pretty good, but I use decoder pro mostly since I have a Digitrax DCC system.

Thanks Darrel. I am new to DCC so no other systems. I think I have chuff and puff covered but still trying to figure out how to trigger two actions with one button (coupler sound with coupler power pulse). I know it can be done, just not sure of the protocol.

Pete

@Norton posted:

Thanks Darrel. I am new to DCC so no other systems. I think I have chuff and puff covered but still trying to figure out how to trigger two actions with one button (coupler sound with coupler power pulse). I know it can be done, just not sure of the protocol.

Pete

Well, you have to connect one of the outputs to a relay or solid state power switch to operate the couplers, they draw too much current for the blunami. Once that is done you would then use function mapping to assign that output to the same button that activates the coupler sound. One of the great things about Soundtrax is they allow you to reassign all the functions to whatever button you want. Check out the videos about function mapping on the Soundtrax website.

Also check out this thread here on OGRforum, this details the hardware needed. The decoder set up is for a different decoder, so not sure how to set up the blunami. I will look into it more when I get to that point, but I have found over the last few years that I really don't use electrocouplers very much anymore.

Two post war steamers, a 2035 and a 637.  Taken apart years ago for some reason since forgotten.   Parts were comingled.  Took a bit to get that sorted out, hats off to the original assemblers, not the easiest to get back together.  Glad allentown show is tomorrow,  some parts have vanished.  Another someday project almost completed.

Found all the parts for the 637, assembled, placed on the track, breaker tripped.  Looks like this one gets opened up again.

2035 wants to go, needs to have the motor cleaned up and the side gear placed on but thats what the parts will be for.  The 2035 is the only one I want to keep anyway.

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