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This engine was passed to me by my Son who got it from his future Son in law. He got it from a friend who found it at the curb.

Before I tackle the body I thought that I would check the chassis. I put it on the track and found the lights and sound to be working. It tried to move but didn’t get far. I found the motor trucks were lacking lube. I lubed it and moved everything by hand. I found it to be free. Back on the track one truck was running but not the other. I took the shell off and found that the truck frame  had slipped out of the slot in the chassis. I fixed that but didn’t improve anything. I removed the weight on the motor and then removed the truck from the broken side frame.

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It was then that I noticed the motor gear was missing. E4DC8106-5580-4BE9-8A37-FE465033722B
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he picture shows the gear back in place. When I turned the side frame over the gear was stuck to the frame with a tad of grease.
When I pushed the gear on it went all the way back to the motor. In that position it hardly meshes with the gear below it. There isn’t a washer shown on the parts list; but I was considering adding one. The parts list was funky on my phone so I brought it up on my PC. Now it shows the motor truck available for $32. As you can see the truck pictured has a metal gear at the end of the shaft.
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i was just going through the parts I have on order. I can get the pilot and coupler assembly, cluster gear, and this motor truck. But I just found the motor and gear without the truck; which would save $20. My hesitation is that the truck must have taken some hit to dislodge it from the frame. I don’t know if I’m seeing right but it seems like it may be cockeyed. What to do….

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All the splicing is done. Still to be tested. I was test fitting the new truck on the broken side frame; for which a replacement is not available. The pilot should attach to the side frame with screws that go through the pilot and side frame and then into the motor frame. As shown in the pictures the side frame is missing the front end. After mounting the coupler to the pilot; I plan on shaping a piece of plastic that will be screwed to the pilot and motor frame and extend it to what’s left of the side frame. The tongue will be fastened to the side frame. I would appreciate any thoughts or suggestions on this. 2D64DA55-0EB5-4EE1-AA27-C7001BDA4F5A
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I tested my wiring today and both motors are running. Wahoo! I turned to the body and pulled all of the trim off. Apparently the conductor jumped before the crash. His seat is empty. I pieced the cab pieces together and fastened them with tape for a look see. I was thinking that I could close the hole on the left side of the hood with some simulated corrugated metal. (Like a store gate). I have a roll somewhere.  But now I see that the corner of the cab is gone as well. Not sure that this will ever look good  

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@Mike CT posted:

I did a (Floor crash, rebuild) of an AtlasO SW9.  With some filing/sanding, utility knife trimming, and a piece of styrene I managed to re-assembly the unit.   Part of the project was new window inserts from Atlas, which allowed an acurate template for the cab rebuild.

Thanks, I have all the inserts. The corner post is what is challenging me.

Back to the broken side frame. All of the great engineering ideas can be filed away.
@Chuck Sartor came to the rescue. Chuck had a sideframe, which he provided for a very reasonable amount. Chuck also pointed out that I was missing the cup washer for the hook on the sideframe. Thanks again Chuck!


Next steps are to straighten the frame.
Paint the frame and trucks.

Reassemble the trucks and frame.

Repair the shell and prepare for paint.

Paint the shell.

Apply decals, which are on order from Christine.

Showing spring on hook without needed cup washer  

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New sideframe

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Source for decals.

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The older Lionel  and Willimas GP shells have the holes in the ends for a screw that goes into a tab on the frame, newer Lionel GPs have internal bosses to accept screws that come up through the frame.  You could create bosses by gluing in some styrene square tube in the right places and just fill the holes in the nose.

@coach joe posted:

Pennsyfan, there are 2 Lionel post war GP9 shells currently listed on eBay for less than $10.  One with dynamic breaks, one without.  Mounting holes through the ends of the hoods.  these would need to be filled and you would need to create bosses for mounting screws as discussed above.

Thanks! They are on my watch list. They are out for bid. There seems to be a lot of interest.



When I took the tape off the frame, I found I had too much tape. A few spots didn’t get painted. I guess that’s better having paint where it doesn’t belong! I installed the new motor truck, frame, pilot, and coupler. I wired it back together matching colors carefully. There are two wires black and black white stripe that come off the pickup and axel body. They are causing a short. I separated them and connected them the opposite way, Still no good. I think that they have something to do with the speed sensor. The engine runs but is hardly controllable. When I apply power the sound comes up and the engine seems to be in neutral; then all of a sudden it takes off at great speed, even at a low voltage. Back to the drawing board. A schematic would sure be nice.

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Nice job so far!  The way these locos are designed, they do run very fast, especially if  your transformer "starts" at 7 or 8 volts.  Try rewiring both of the can motors in series, instead of the factory parallel wiring.  Then each one will get half as many volts, so you'll have a wider usable throttle range.

@Ted S posted:

Nice job so far!  The way these locos are designed, they do run very fast, especially if  your transformer "starts" at 7 or 8 volts.  Try rewiring both of the can motors in series, instead of the factory parallel wiring.  Then each one will get half as many volts, so you'll have a wider usable throttle range.

Thanks Ted I was thinking that once I get the speed sensor straight; it would take care of that. Definitely a next step.

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