This one looks better than the last one I bought, but it’s missing a few critical parts… I know it needs a motor and gearbox, a lead truck, and a pilot… will see what else it needs when it gets here… probably not going to do too much to it until after I finish the mike…
Replies sorted oldest to newest
Welcome to doorstopism.
I’d like to think I could at least make a shelf queen out of it…
I believe you will find you have an International Models 4-4-2 on your hands, produced in Japan in the years just following World War II. The company made all-brass models, and by that I mean everything was brass- including, frame, wheelsets, axles, valve gear, and motor worm gearing. This could be a bit of a nuisance for operators when brass bearings and gears were mated with brass counterparts. If compatible non-brass pieces can be found or fabricated to eliminate brass-on-brass wear surfaces, you may end up with a unique model which runs. Some here would probably like an update on whether it is an International or something else. Good luck with your acquisition.
@bob2 posted:Welcome to doorstopism.
😄😄😄 Question: is a "doorstop" a heavy model that doesn't/can't run? Or can that name apply to any heavy (usually older) model?
Mark in Oregon 🎄
yes International 1952 + -
not the best example of imported brass ...
I know they represent more entry level locomotives, but my International Pacific is a good runner. That could be due to the fact that someone put a flywheel on the motor. The biggest challenge I have with that locomotive is that it is set up to run on 3rd Rail AC, but the drivers are all flanged. 072 curves are not nearly wide enough to turn it. Since it still has the scale flanges, I will be turning it back to 2 rail one day.
My International Japanese boxcab electric is sans motor so that is yet another project I don't have time for these days.
@GG1 4877 posted:I know they represent more entry level locomotives, but my International Pacific is a good runner. That could be due to the fact that someone put a flywheel on the motor. The biggest challenge I have with that locomotive is that it is set up to run on 3rd Rail AC, but the drivers are all flanged. 072 curves are not nearly wide enough to turn it. Since it still has the scale flanges, I will be turning it back to 2 rail one day.
O72 curves aren't enough for a scale Pacific? I have several scale Pacific locomotives that run fine on my O72. What's unique about this one?
Never mind, I realized that the middle driver really isn't flanged. 
@gunrunnerjohn posted:O72 curves aren't enough for a scale Pacific? I have several scale Pacific locomotives that run fine on my O72. What's unique about this one?
Never mind, I realized that the middle driver really isn't flanged.
Not only that, but this "Pacific" is a 4-4-2... 😁
Mark in Oregon
O-72 is 36" radius. That is really tight for 2-rail scale. A typical scale Pacific won't make it without cutting the cylinders and frame. Also the tender drawbar must be extended beyond a realistic length. Most of us regard 48" (O-96) as a rock-bottom minimum for all but switchers and ore cars.
@Strummer posted:Not only that, but this "Pacific" is a 4-4-2... 😁
Mark in Oregon
I can't see how a 4-4-2 won't run on O72, but I replied to the following post that clearly identified a Pacific.
@GG1 4877 posted:I know they represent more entry level locomotives, but my International Pacific is a good runner. That could be due to the fact that someone put a flywheel on the motor. The biggest challenge I have with that locomotive is that it is set up to run on 3rd Rail AC, but the drivers are all flanged. 072 curves are not nearly wide enough to turn it. Since it still has the scale flanges, I will be turning it back to 2 rail one day.
Of course...😊😊😊
(I'm currently bed- ridden with a bad disc, so I obviously have waay too much time on my hands...)
Mark in Oregon 🎄
@bob2 posted:O-72 is 36" radius. That is really tight for 2-rail scale. A typical scale Pacific won't make it without cutting the cylinders and frame. Also the tender drawbar must be extended beyond a realistic length. Most of us regard 48" (O-96) as a rock-bottom minimum for all but switchers and ore cars.
I get that with all the drivers flanged it would be a tight fit on O72. 
It’s here!
Overall I’m happy with it! The engine is definitely 100% brass as noted in a previous post, and it definitely has its fair share of issues.
The tender, on the other hand, is really quite nice! I could be wrong, but I don’t think it “belongs to” this engine. I’m tempted to use this tender with my mikado because I think this tender is actually a bit nicer than the all-nation one I picked up for the Mike.
I’ll post up some better close ups soon, if anyone wants to see any specific areas just let me know…
The engine does have a lot of stuff missing, and it will be a challenge to make it run… but the tender looks fantastic behind the mike. I’m basically looking at this as a nice tender that came with a bunch of free locomotive parts… I’m sure I can put the engine together enough to be a nice display model with the all-nation tender.
Slapped some paint and decals on the all nation tender…
I had the decals left over from re-numbering an MTH railking Berk, and a little bit of research showed that the Nickel Plate did roster a couple Atlantics at some point…
Probably not prototypically accurate, but should look good when it’s done!
A little more progress… I made a temporary lead truck with some old 3 rail axles. Since it’s just a cosmetic restoration at this point I’m not worried about non-insulated wheel sets… the wheel sets in the trucks under the tender are non-insulated also, they were on the tender that came with this engine, I’m guessing that tender was used with an outside 3rd rail engine…
If I put a pilot on it, painted the frame/running gear, and added the lower half of the firebox it might actually look halfway decent…
sweet
Access to this requires an OGR Forum Supporting Membership
