Any issues: going from tubular to solid track?

The one thing I can say about Atlas track is I recommend you don't use the Atlas switches.  I'm pretty unimpressed with those, I'd consider the Ross switches.

While I'm not as down on the Atlas switches as some other of my fellow bretheren, there are sometimes and places where I would prefer to use Ross switches. I've modified all my Atlas switches to eliminate 99% of the complaints that have aired here on the forum. Ross Ready switches are the best you can get. I've never had any failure of a Ross switch. The nice thing is that mating Ross to Atlas is very easy, as the width of the Ross rail and Atlas rail is the same, as is the height of the track.. The Atlas rail joiners mate up snugly to ross--- the only thing needed is to move or modify the end tie of the ross track/switch, but it's not that drastic a mod.

 

Hope this helps---

Atlas Track and Ross Switches. The best of both worlds.

 

Bob

Lee,

 

In response to your specific question, no, I do not believe so.  I haven't done it myself in O but have seen several layouts going from different styles/compositions of track with no ill effects.  Keeping the heights matched would be your biggest hurdle. 

 

It presented no problems going from brass/steel to nickle silver in HO which I have done.  FWIW.

I'm actually thinking of not using any switches on my replacement mainline: keep it simple as I can.

Does this mean the traction tires will wear out in a couple of laps? Also do you then remove the traction tires and run the Engine without traction tires as long as the layout is flat?. Thank You.

I had 52 Atlas Switches on my last Layout and did NOT have PROBLEM One with them. They work GREAT!!!

 

Fredstrains

Lee, Have you decided to remove all your Fastrack instead of laying over top of it?

I am confused by the statement that Flat rail eats traction tires.

I'm running Realtrax Which has a flat top and the only time I've lost a traction tire in several years is an engine malfunction where one truck was pulling and the other was not.  That is not a track problem, it's an engine problem.

Well, two trips around the layout is overstating the case for sure.  I ran my Legacy PARR T-1 Duplex around the tracks for several hours at our last modular show on Atlas track, the traction tires don't look any different than when we started, no damage at all.

I have to say that I don't agree with this statement either. I also run OO and G. Both of these use solid flat topped rail and most modern locomotives have traction tyres.

In my experience, traction tyres are normally damaged by uneven track joints, or by some mechanical issue with the locomotive drive.

Also, FasTrack has a pretty flat surface, and this doesn't seem to cause premature wear to the tyres unless one or both of the circumstances described above exist.

You're certainly right about the track joints, I've seen that on a piece of Fastrack.  It was eating the traction tires until I found it.

Why not just replace the Fastrack with new Fastrack and stop using the Simple Green? Don't blame the track. Blame the chemical.

Hi Folks,  I wanted to make a few more comments about Atlas track and traction tires.  Atlas track has a T shaped top that is closer to real railroad track than other brands.  The inside of the top is almost vertical whereas the inside of other brands is more rounded.  In my experience, the Atlas track cuts the traction tires.  The tires don't wear out.  They are cut.

 

This has happened on most of my engines but not all of them.  I have a few engines that I have run for years without losing a traction tire.  The vast majority of my engines have lost at least one traction tire after a few laps, however.

 

Of course, this may be just a problem with the way I lay track.  I am pretty careful to make sure all the track and joints are smooth.

 

Most of my friends use Gargarves or other track brands.  They do not seem to have this problem.  Their track work doesn't appear to be any better or worse than my track work.

 

In any case, it doesn't matter if an engine is MTH, Lionel, Atlas or other, over 90% loose at least one traction tire after a few laps on my Atlas track.

 

I initially choose Atlas track because I believe that looks closer to prototype track than other brands.  The ties are smaller and closer together, etc.  Another major consideration is that the local trains stores carry Atlas.  None of them carry Gargraves, Scaletrax, etc.  

 

I choose Atlas for the garden G&O railroad because the ties are UV rated and the solid rails stay in place when you step on it.  So far it has stood up well in the sun and rain.  It doesn't freeze or snow in the SF Bay Area - at least not very often.  

 

Joe

 

If I couldn't run a majority of my engines without losing the traction tires after a few laps, I wouldn't be using that track type.  I've run only three different locomotives on the Atlas track for an extended amount of time, but none of them suffered any issues with traction tires.

 

I know a local guy that has a large layout with Atlas track, and he runs a BUNCH.  He's never commented about losing traction tires, and I've been there a number of times, he hosts our modular club.  I have to believe there's something unique about your layout, because it would seem that all the other folks running on Atlas here would be singing the same song, so far I don't hear the chorus.

Atlas track with Ross turnouts.

• DO NOT USE ATLAS-to-GARGRAVES adapter pins. Cut out the stringers between the two end ties on the Ross turnouts, slide the end ties back 1/4" and use regular Atlas joiners.
• Do not rely on Atlas track joiners for conductivity over long distances. Put in Feed joiners every 10 feet or so.
• Get good quality #3 or #4 x 1/2" or 3/4" pan head screws to mount the track. We're not too impressed with the material used in the Atlas screws. You can use #4 wood screws if you hand-countersink the holes in the ties with a 1/4" or 3/8" drill.
• If using DCS, insulate the center rail halfway between feed drops to prevent feedback.

The Atlas track will be much quieter than FasTrack for two reasons -- solid rail, and lack of the hollow plastic "ballast board."

 

If taking it outside, Joe Barker's recommendation is right on the money. Thermal expansion/contraction is problematic with whatever track you use outdoors. Sectional that floats on the roadbed tends to keep everything connected properly. You can even use "splitjaw" 4mm rail clamps to tie the sections together if the whole assembly is allowed to float.

To me, the weakness in the Atlas track are the pins.  They seem to be like HO on droids!

I have a fair size layout with large radius Atlas 3 rail track. The only time that I have lost traction tires was because I overloaded an engine and stretched the tires off.

 

I find it very hard to believe that Atlas track causes cutting or other destruction of traction tires. That has never happened to me and I run many different types of engines from MTH, Atlas, Lionel and Weaver.

 

Do you have very sharp curves? Do you use harsh chemicals to clean your track? Have you roughed up the inside edge of the rail by grabbing the rail head with pliers to snug up your rail joints? 

 

 

Ctr,  I am glad that you aren't having a problem with traction tires.  The minimum curve on both my home and the G&O garden layout is O-72.  The only thing I use to clean the track with is 91% isopropyl alcohol on a rag.  I haven't touched the inside rail surface with pliers or anything else.  I don't run long trains on either layout so the engines are not overloaded.  Both layouts are level.  The only reason I haven't run long trains on the G&O yet is that the layout is still under construction and it is a lot easier to test track with short trains.  

 

The G&O is going to have a mountain division installed next year.  It will be interesting to see how the traction tires hold up on grades and curves with long trains.   

 

I don't know what causes the problem.  I just know that I have this problem on two different layouts using Atlas track.  My friends using other types of track do not have this problem.  

 

I still like Atlas track and I would use it again.  I have learned to live with the tire problem.

 

Joe

 

As others have stated…. Atlas track and Ross switches make a very good combination.

 

Do not use Atlas switches.  I had 25 of them on my layout and one by one they went bad!!

Well....I like others had modifications done to my Atlas switches mainly because I have two large yards on the layout and arranged the yards in a double ended ladder.  Thus the switches are connected to one another end to end.  This caused terrible problems with many locomotives because of roller spacing and dead spots in the track.  Atlas makes a circuit to take care of the problem but a good friend that is an electronic wizard used micro switches which are mounted inside of the motor housings which he then wired so that there are no dead spots.  Cost was about a dollar per switch.  Other than that, I have almost 100 atlas switches on the layout and so far so good.  So....I am happy with my choice of going all Atlas...

 

Oh...by the way....I have lost traction tires too but usually this happens with locomotives that have been stored for a long time...those that I bought long ago and never ran.  Many times the tires just come off a few times around the track.  I don't blame the track as I believe it has something to do with the age of the tires and lack of use.  AND....the tire problems that I have had have always been with MTH tires...never a problem with a Lionel, Weaver, or K-Line tire regardless of how long it has been since I ran the locomotive.  Most of the time when I do have a tire problem, it is probably my fault since I like to run 60 to 100 car trains....

 

Alan