BLACKING bare metal rails on steamers

I like Neolube. If you do a search here on the forum it will bring up many threads on blackening and darkening metal. The search here has all your answers. type NEOLUBE in the search box. 

I use gun blue all the time, and it works great. Just hold the tip of one end with a needle nose pliers, and rub the blue on with a Q tip. I just re-blackened a 1664's handrails that has some light oxidation on them and after removing it the bare metal was showing in spots. Not sure what the cost of the other product mentioned is, or where to buy it, but the gun blues is available at any gun store or large sporting goods store like Bass or Dick's for about $9.

Gandy

hello TheGandyDancer.....

 

Will the Gun blue stuffs work on the driver tires or rims, just on the sides ?

 

the woman who loves the S.F.#5021

Tiffany

Neolube is a colloidal solution of finely powdered graphite in an evaporative liquid. The bottle must be shaken vigorously to disperse the graphite before application, and frequently stirred. The carrier - the liquid - eventually evaporates, leaving the dark graphite on whatever it has been applied to. The graphite does not harden like paint, and it is NOT a chemical darkening agent. When parts that have been treated with Neolube are handled, the Neolube will rub off - on your hands and fingers, and then can be transferred to another object that you grasp or touch, so it's best to not touch any part that has had Neolube applied. Postwar engine handrails usually are nickel plated (except for the 1945 224 2-6-2 and tender), which makes them shiny. If liquid gun blue or Blacken It is used, the part to be treated must be absolutely free of grease, oil, hand/finger oil, etc. Neither of these chemical darkening agents is sufficiently effective on nickel plated objects. Chemical darkening materials work best on bare steel surfaces. If I want darkened driver tire edges or axle ends, I'll paint them black.

 

Phil

hello mtnhi7.....

 

finally some one here can explain it clearly and so i have to agree with you about using paint instead on the driver edges and axle ends. Thank you for making this clear.

the woman who loves the S.F.#5021

Tiffany

Neo-lube is conductive so I use it on rims/tires without much worry. LOTS of handling with remove some of it on handrails but I have not had an issue on the vast majority of the locos I've done. I just have to remind myself not to pick up locos by the hand rails which is a good idea anyway. I painted a number of locos and still like Neo better......but that's what is great here.....we all add our own views so less trail and error for others!

everyone THANKS for your advice and opinions-dave i looked at your pics on post topics

on neolube-your engines look great with this treatment-only thing i don;t like is the neolube will come off-gun blue is question able-tiffany-leave your 3rd rail steamer the way it is-it is too expensive a engine to mess with-painting is another choice-only paint i liked was floquil.engine black is a choice.joe

Gun blue can be used on driver tires and axles. For smaller parts that are plated, bead blasting is required to remove the thin plating and etch it some.

You can paint these smaller parts without going through the priming process. Just be absolutely sure the surfaces are clean so you get good adhesion.

I've used both methods with successful results during my refurbishing or restoration projects over the years.

Gandy

This is my little Shifter, recently done.

Hello challenger and guys......

 

i decided to leave the drivers of my sunset 3rd engine alone and just live with it as it really looks ok as it is.  

 

The woman who loves the S.F.#5021

Tiffany