Car weighting

I've used self adhesive weights from stores selling gas powered airplanes ,   check out Nassau hobby.  I used to use AA & D cell batteries but eventually they leaked.

Also fishing weights. They seem to work well. I got some that are flat that stay put.

Jushavnfun posted:

I've used self adhesive weights from stores selling gas powered airplanes ,   

+1.  I’ve used these for years.  They are readily available at hobby stores that cater to the RC crowd.

Curt

Stop by your local automotive tire replacement shop, and ask for a handful of the old wheel balancing weights that they discard. You can then glue those inside the freight car. 

https://www.harborfreight.com/...l-weights-67226.html

Just get some wheel weights from Harbor Freight. They have adhesive on the weights already and won't move around.

conrail5065 posted:

https://www.harborfreight.com/...l-weights-67226.html

Just get some wheel weights from Harbor Freight. They have adhesive on the weights already and won't move around.

+1 on Ryan’s recommendation for the stick-on wheel weights from Harbor Freight.  I’ve been using them for several years now.  They come in 1/4-oz. and 1/2-oz. sizes which helps with adding just the right amount of weight to bring a car up to the NMRA standard while working within the amount of available space.

In a car where the weights are concealed, I use fishing sinkers adding between 2 to 4oz of weight. when the cars are open air like flatcars and gondolas I use details which also enhance the appearance as well as adding weight.

I use leftover weights for my cars and engines.   They were lousy as bullets, but they work great as weights.

I use large nuts secured with duct tape.  Inexpensive at your local home improvement store.

fender washers ... i use rubber cement and place them right over the trucks.

+

just enough of a bond to hold them in place, but easy to remove when necessary.

cheers...gary

Gary, I like your rubber cement idea.  I have used washers, too.

John

You should also check the NMRA Recommended Practice about car weighting. Setting your rolling stock to standard and proper weights can make a HUGE difference in the way they roll.

Tom McGriel posted:

Does any one know if any of the suppliers sell 5 oz. weights to stabilize light cars that don’t track well?

For an economical choice of weights, go to an army/ navy supply store or a sportsmans store and buy a 25 lb bag of 7mm Shot [ for shot gun shells] that bag will last you a lifetime and you can glue the shot into any crevase or in-between beams and make weighting cars inconspicuous.

OGR Webmaster posted:

You should also check the NMRA Recommended Practice about car weighting. Setting your rolling stock to standard and proper weights can make a HUGE difference in the way they roll.

I'll second that.  We did about 25 weaver boxcars and brought them from around 7 oz to the recommended 15 oz, and it made a huge difference in the stability and ability to pull a long consist.  The light cars kept jumping off the tracks as switches and even curves.

I also use the Harbor Freight weights.  I have a mixture of rolling stock from die cast Atlas (extra heavy) to a majority of Weaver (super light weight). I don't have to weight anything all works fine. I do weight the light weight Weaver because they roll so well coupling with Kadee's is hard when there is a lone car.

Tom McGriel posted:

Does any one know if any of the suppliers sell 5 oz. weights to stabilize light cars that don’t track well?

Go onto eBay and search "stick-on wheel weights". There are several sellers and you can get them in half and quarter-ounce weight. They're easy to apply in most cases, but flat cars are a difficult situation. Weaver tank cars are sometimes a pain to get apart to get to the weight plate inside.

I got mine here.

The NMRA recommendation is five ounces, plus one ounce per actual inch of car length, so a 40-foot car should weigh in at 15 ounces. Don't worry if the car is 1/4 ounce overweight.

AGHRMatt posted:

Tom McGriel posted:

Does any one know if any of the suppliers sell 5 oz. weights to stabilize light cars that don’t track well?

Go onto eBay and search "stick-on wheel weights". There are several sellers and you can get them in half and quarter-ounce weight. They're easy to apply in most cases, but flat cars are a difficult situation. Weaver tank cars are sometimes a pain to get apart to get to the weight plate inside.

I got mine here.

The NMRA recommendation is five ounces, plus one ounce per actual inch of car length, so a 40-foot car should weigh in at 15 ounces. Don't worry if the car is 1/4 ounce overweight.

Those are the same weights I use. I use a postal scale to get accurate weight measurements.

Must be a 2r issue or old Weavers? 

Maybe I'm missing something, but I don't think this is an exact science.  You add enough weight, whatever your choice, so the car tracks well without derailing.  If it still derails, add a little more weight until it runs well.  If you run really long trains the exact weight of the cars might make a difference, but - for most of us - a few ounces won't make a difference.

gunrunnerjohn posted:

OGR Webmaster posted:

You should also check the NMRA Recommended Practice about car weighting. Setting your rolling stock to standard and proper weights can make a HUGE difference in the way they roll.

I'll second that.  We did about 25 weaver boxcars and brought them from around 7 oz to the recommended 15 oz, and it made a huge difference in the stability and ability to pull a long consist.  The light cars kept jumping off the tracks as switches and even curves.

And I will third that as well! I weigh in all my Freight cars. Well worth the effort[PA]

Steam Crazy posted:

Maybe I'm missing something, but I don't think this is an exact science.  You add enough weight, whatever your choice, so the car tracks well without derailing.  If it still derails, add a little more weight until it runs well.  If you run really long trains the exact weight of the cars might make a difference, but - for most of us - a few ounces won't make a difference.

Yeah but Why chance it? IF you are going to do a project.. might as well do it right the first time! How difficult is it to get a digital scale to hold a piece of straight track, zero out then add the freight car in question.

After all who knows what the future holds. You may join a club or a modular group who will allow only weighted cars to minimize derailements.