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Hey guys,

For those of you who have had someone autograph a car, did you protect it in any manner? I had Mike Wolfe autograph a car perhaps 10 years ago, and although the car wasn't out in the open his signature eventually faded. Last month I had William Shatner autograph a Lionel Captain Kirk boxcar for a Christmas gift for my dad and have been mulling over spraying clear coat from a rattle can over it (my airbrush is packed away in preparation for a move). Would anyone expect the sharpie to run? For whatever reason I'm thinking there's acetone or alcohol as a solvent in a rattle can...

Thanks --

Last edited by Slugger
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I have almost 100 sharpie autographs going back 30 years and none have faded.  Most are on clothing (jerseys/hats) but one is on a boxcar, and others are on plastic.  It wouldn't hurt to cover with dullcoat. Fwiw I've even washed clothing items which have been autographed and none have faded.

Of course, I'm assuming none are stored in direct sunlight.

-Greg

Last edited by Greg Houser

Interesting thoughts.  I have a K-Line SP Daylight painted boxcar signed on one side by Maury Klein and Nick Ladd on the other.  It came to me well over 10 years ago out of a prominent TCA members collection and dates to the 90's.  I have never had any issue with the signature fading.  I often run it with my K-Line 21" daylight cars and call it my graffiti car. 

Clear coating could preserve the signature longer, however I would test it with a sharpie on something else first.  The last thing you would want is to have the signature run or be damaged by an incompatible clear coat.

First, to test it it would have to be the same plastic.   You could probably use the inside of the car.
Second,  use a model paint that is compatible with plastic.
Your fading seems to be the exception. Others are not reporting this in this thread.   Could this be a singular issue?  Some other factor at play?

Alan

I weathered and applied graffiti with multi colored permanent sharpies to two buildings in the past year. Both were sprayed with clear coat to seal in the weathering. For one building, which also had decals applied to it, I used two coats of a heavier amount of clear coat to seal it in, as I do with all decals. I definitely experienced some bleeding for the sharpie graffiti. It didn't kill my project, since I was weathering a run down building and was able to apply additional weathering where the sharpie graffiti bled, completely hiding the effect.  However, it did give me a little concern at the time. For the other building, which did not have water slide decals in need of sealing, I applied a lighter coat of clear coat (a simple one coat mist, followed by another after it had dried overnight). There was no noticeable bleeding of the sharpie on this one.

I agree with others about testing it. The key is what others have said, use a very, very light coat. The idea is basically that the paint is almost dry when it hits the surface, which means the solvent that keeps the actual clear coat liquid is almost all gone. Use  a very light coat and do it from a distance and see if on the sample it runs, practice it until it doesn't.  As they say, several light coats is better than one heavy one.

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