Connecting modules

on the new modules i made for the Ocean County club I used the key and socket method. one side of the module has the key and the other has the recess for the key.

There isn't a good way to accomplish this.  The most often used method is to have small sections of track "bridge" the gaps...honestly I've never even thought about this issue with O scale track.  Off the top of my head I would use my dremel and cut the rail over the "gap" if the boards where they would line up by simply placing the board together.

I will be cutting a curved section of track which means i will have to take a tie or two out.  Just not positively sure how to ensure this goes right.

Cut the track flush and  C  clamp. I use a clasp that is mounted to table on one side this draws it up tight.~ Made modular displays before and pins, key, sockets after a short time don't line up anymore Wound up just C clamp two at each joint

 

For our club we just cut the rail flush with the end of the module and clamp the sections together. It is simple an works very well.

Bill,
Do you have any curve sections traversing
The module gaps?


...

> On Mar 7, 2014, at 12:48 AM, O Gauge Railroading On Line Forum wrote:
>

I participated in Tinplate Trackers a while back. Their specifications called for the mounted track to end five inches from the end of the module. A 10 inch bridge track was used. My experience was limited, never had a problem with bent pins.

Modules were held together with "C" clamps.

 

Tinplate Trackers manual.

Yes, we do have some modules that have curves. This system works well with those situations. We don't use any rail pins or connectors between modules unless we have a loose rail or something that is preventing a perfect alignment. The electrical connections between each module is through the bus wiring underneath.

The four curves have been around for ever.  They need to be replaced.  Every year we apply a lot of glue and screws to keep them together. 

With the Lower Susquehanna Valley Modular Railroaders, we use gargraves track right up to the ends.  We use track pins and clamps.  The pins help make up for track that is slightly out of alignment at the ends of the modules. Each module has a power drop that is hooked up via a 4 pin trailer hitch connector. (yes we know that is not how you are supposed to do it electrically with command control but it works for us.)

 

The club started out with the tinplate tracker 10" bridge tracks and decided that they were more trouble than they were worth.  Since this is set up in public places and noise cancellation is not usually an issue, the club has abandoned soft road bed material in favor of 1/4" plywood for durability.  Some of the older modules still have the older material so using the pins helps line the tracks up better.

I use just that method. cheap harbor freight spring clamps.

3 per joint easy on easy off. I take my board to shows and used

to screw the sections together. the spring clamps work easier,

hold strong and come off quik when breaking down sunday night.

I use Lionel tubular track and have cut the bottom half of the track

away where the pins would normally go in. I push the oppiste end of the track

into one section and lay the cut off section on top of the pins sticking out

from the other section and screw the track section down so the cut off section

lays on top of the pins making contact for elec purposes.

 

kinda tough to describe, wish I had pics.

Our modules will turn 20 years old next year. We have the modules are aligned with furniture pin and held with c-clamps, spanner tracks connect the tracks.

 

The next version will use 1/2" Lift Arm Pins for alingment, roto-locks for holding the modules together and not we will not use spanner track. That said the track will be cut back 5" (not removed) on each module in the event that we have to use spanner track

 

 

I built 8 modules about 10 years ago. i used 2" foam and glued cork base and gargraves track with yellow carpenters glue. I used screws only on the ends where the wood frame is. Alignment when building is critical. No pins are necessary if fitted properly. These modules were moved twice yearly to my club's train shows many times. they are now set up permanently on public display at our station in Tobyhanna Pa. They are clamped together using hardware from table leaves. These are similar to window locks but with steel alignment tabs.  

Fort Pitt Hi-Railers modular layout at the Pittsburgh Home and Garden Show March 7, 2014, David L Lawrence Convention Center.  Late day sun off the Allegheny River.