Continuing Saga …

Well sports fans, we have a rare Saturday report. It was the women's finals at the Miami Tennis tourney and my wife is a big fan, so I was given the okay to work in the shop today. I'm only a short time from completing the boiler house as a result of today's efforts.

All the roofing is finished and weathered. The stacks were sanded and installed. The corridor roof was completed and the parapets capped, and I got a good start on the downspouts.

I wet sanded the stacks with an 800 grit sanding stick until I could just see the rust underneath starting to poke through. In addition to exposing the rust, the sanding brought out the aluminum metallic effect and they even look more like a sheet steel stack than I would have expected.

I inserted small eyebolts and pushed over their ends in the tubes using a wood dowel. This will keep them from pulling out and I may not have to use CA on them. I screwed up one aspect. I didn't pay attention to the positioning of the three eyebolts when I drilled their holes. I was so proud of the perfect 120° spacing that I forgot to check their relationship to the beveled end. I wanted them to be arranged a certain way on the roof, but now, it's sort of helter-skelter. I could re-drill the holes. They're so small you can see them. Or I can just live with it. I'm living with it.

I finished all the remaining shingling and put the foil capping on the small side roofs which finished that phase. I then added some Bar Mills "tar paper" roofing onto the small corridor roof. To get nice clear folds as they run up the parapet, I used my "hold-n-fold" precision clamping tool used for bending photo-etched parts. I measured the width with the caliper and marked this on the roofing. I folded on this mark and got a nice tight fit. I painted the roof with Tamiya "Rubber Black"—another new color they're offering—and went back and hand brushed the tar seams using Tamiya Semi-gloss Black. I made the roof caps from .040" X .250" styrene strip, which I painted before installation using a homemade "concrete" mix with Tamiya Sky Gray, Dark Brown, Yellow and White. BTW: I also used the "Hold-n-Fold" to make nice clean and straight seams on the long pieces of black paper flashing under the clerestory walls.

With all the roofs in place I added weathering powders as I did on the main building using white, grimy black, dirty gray, and mildew green. I also added some rusty brown around the base of the stacks simulating rusty water deposited there. It's not scientific, and weathering is not my strong suit. After weathering, I used medium CA to install the stacks in their respective spots.

In this overhead shot, you can see what I mean when I said that the flat black interior of the tubing would completely obscure the real wall thickness of the CPVC water pipe and the thinned ends carry the day. I tried using the patina cream on the bright foil peaks, but it didn't work. The weathering powders toned then down some. I'm going to buy some adhesive backed copper conductor foil to use for caps in the future. The foil does make a nice, clean peak cap.

It was time to start building gutters. I tried a new technique this time to speed up construction and reduce some of the solder joints. Instead of cutting separate little brass squares to close the ends, I cut away the channel sides and folded the remainder up to create an end, which I then soldered to close the seams. This worked pretty well and was less finicky than cutting the smalls squares. It also made it easier to solder the downspout near the end without worrying about the end de-soldering.

I finished the medium length strip, and got all the parts completed for the other two. I notch the tubes on a cutting wheel on the Dremel held in the Panavise. The Panavise is held to the work bench with a c-clamp so it doesn't walk around. After notching the tube, I finish the gap with a half round jeweler's file. The tube is still attached at the back of the gap, so again, it doesn't move out of position as I'm soldering it to fill the gaps. I'm using 1/8" brass tubing for the downspouts and drill the holes for it in the drill press so it's nice and square to the gutter.

I thought I was short on gutter stock. After cutting the long piece, the remainder didn't reach the walls extremes. Then I realized that the corridor side was in two parts with a missing piece in between. The result was I had enough material after all. Next session (Monday?) I'll finish the soldering, soak the parts in "Blacken It", and use the patina cream on them. I also already installed the 0.032" brass wire pins that will help secure it to the fascia boards. The gutters are a bit of work, but they really up the ante regarding the how authentic the building appears. When they're on, I'll finish the guy wires and take some beauty shots before installing it on the layout.

Hello, I have a question, in most of the prior posts for the distillery you made regular mention of what you were going to do different for the finished model that was going into the visitors center. I didn't notice that level of commentary with the boiler house. Are you planning something different for the visitors center than a boiler house? Thanks!

There's a real answer here. I'm not including the boiler house in the visitor center model. In the original picture, shown here for reference,

you can't really understand what's going on with the building next door. It has lots of stacks, but is very skimpy on the details. Since this was the only view of the distillery I had, it wasn't much to go on. Therefore, I created my own rendition of the "building next door" and wanted it for my layout. Since it's a fiction, it wasn't worthy of being replicated for the visitor's center. If (and when) Andre and I decide to offer Bernheim as a kit, I may or may not include my version of the boiler house as part of the complex. 

The boiler house is complete!

I haven't mounted it on the layout yet. I'll do that tomorrow. Today, I took it outside, and using image stacking software, made some deep depth of field shots in natural light. 

As you can see, downspouts are on, as are the flashing and guy wires for the stacks. I soaked the completed gutter assemblies in "Blacken It" from MicroMark. This changes the brass color to almost look like aged copper, which I then smeared with Rub-n-Buff patina green cream. The finish that results is very believable. 

I bit the bullet and re-drilled the stack which had the eyebolts facing in the wrong direction. This then allowed me to put the guys wires in the same pattern on both stacks.

To create a reasonable stack flashing using wine bottle foil, I needed to shape it to wrap about a beveled end. I took another piece of the pipe and sanded the same bevel on its end as the stacks. I then rolled the end over the foil and traced the curve it produced. I cut this out with a sharp #11 blade.

And here's the way it looked installed.

Lastly, here's a closeup of the downspouts on the main building side.

As I said, tomorrow I will install on the layout and take some more hi-res pictures. On the layout, the pictures will show it with the lights on. This was a nice project with lots of creative stuff plus a really neat building that works with the rest of the distillery complex.

Here's the SketchUp drawing that started it all. I changed the tall smoke stack to the installed stacks in this image. 

Myles,

The boiler house looks great!  It will really compliment the rest of the distillery on your layout!  Congratulations!

Myles,  Another fabulous creation as expected. Can't wait to see more pictures once installed next to the main building.

Whats on your next on your To-Do list? Can't wait, withdrawal symptoms are already setting in.

Gerry

Thanks Gentlemen!

Next on the to-do list is building the mountain and doing terrain on the right end of the railroad. All that exposed lumber is an eye sore. Then it will be back to structures while I build another distillery for the Heaven Hill Visitor's Center. After that I have at least five more buildings to do, and I'm working with Terry at Custom Signals to put some more life into the layout. Lots of to do. As Willy Wonka said, "Some much time and so little to do, or was that the other way around?"

It's lovely, Myles. 

Fantastic job Myles.      This building is a work of art. When it sits next to the distillery building the scene will look even better. You seem to be playing "Can you top this?" with yourself. I can't wait to see the next project.

Thanks gentlemen! Well you asked, and now I have some pictures of the boiler house in its final position next to the distillery. The lighting is bright enough that you can plainly see the interior even with the room lights on. 

Next up will be some shop cleanup and then onto mountain building. This will be a break from structure building.

Very nicely executed! I enjoyed following your progress; you did an outstanding job, and it looks great on the layout. Good luck as you tackle the mountain project.

Don

Great job Myles. Thanks for letting us follow along with this project. I'm looking forward to your next project.

It all looks great!  The boilers really show up inside the boiler house.  Fits right into town!

This project is amazing.

Andre.

Thanks fellows! 

We took a long weekend in Chicago to celebrate our 48th anniversary. We stayed at The James hotel, had a great room, ate well, got to the Driehaus Museum and the Van Gogh exhibit at the Art Institute and I gained 4 pounds. I already lost a pound. I started to design the mountain. The first step in doing the mountain seems to be getting the tunnel portals located and determining the elevations of the mountain at various positions. I decided to try and make my own portals. I did this specifically because of two concerns: the fact that the entrances are on curves and the length of some of my locomotives specifically the H-8 Allegheny and the Pennsy S-1 monster 6-4-4-6. Both have enormous overhangs that exceeds the size of most of the commercially available portals.

I'm using 1/8" Masonite that I have hanging around from various projects. I first made a mockup using some bead foam which I hacked out with my Tippi hot-wire foam cutter. I had two specification to meet: the aforementioned overhangs, and the extreme height of my auto-rack car. The auto rack is substantially taller than the scale 16 feet of the Allegheny. The portal is almost 5 inches wide. The curve diameters on the two tunnels are O-96 on the outside and O-88 on the inside.

After checking that everything fit, I did a layout on the Masonite and cut it out. The first time I tried to use my jig saw, but the thin blade may not have been tensioned enough and was wandering so bad that I had to scrap the piece. I then used my saber saw to cut the opening and the circular hand saw to do the straight cuts. I also used the chop saw to do the width cuts.

I then tried out the first piece to ensure it cleared everywhere.

I don't have any double stack container cars so they may not fit. All the real railroads had to increase their tunnel clearances when the double stacks came along. 

I needed to make them more interesting so I'm adding some layers to the face. After doing some photo research, I realize that I'm overdoing it a bit, but it will be interesting.

I

I'm not convinced that my design works and tomorrow I may rearrange it a bit. After I got the design down I measured and cut the other three. Did I mention that I need four portals for two tracks in and out of the mountain. I found it easier to cut the insides with the saber saw first and then cut the pieces to size. It made the piece more stable to support the saw as I did the cutting.

Here's the rest of the parts waiting to be glued together tomorrow. I used the belt sander to straighten any edges that needed it and knock off any furry edges.

The portals need some thickness looking into the tunnels. I plan on gluing some green styrofoam to the back and then trimming it flush with the opening. After some mild filling and painting it will give the "concrete" some more heft. I haven't decided yet what I'm going to do to line the first few inches of the tunnels. Since the tunnels are all curved, you won't need much interior to hide the fact that the mountain is hollow.

Great to see all of the steps you followed. The final result should be well worth the effort you have put into it. Nice job! Be sure to show us the finished project.

First of all, congratulations to you and your wife of 48 years of marriage!!

Second, how interesting you were at the Van Gogh exhibit too, because a high school classmate of mine posted on Facebook photos she took while she and her husband visited the same exhibit.  

Third, I think the extra decorative layers on portals will give them a distinctive look for your railroad.  

Mark, you are too kind. The Van Gogh on Saturday afternoon was a mob scene. It was so crowded that there were times when there were 10 people between me and the paintings. It actually spoiled the fun. When I've been to these kinds of exhibits before they limited the amount of people in the gallery by selling tickets for specific times and controlling entry closely. In this case, it was a free for all. Even the Driehaus Museum on Friday was crowded, although not at the Van Gogh level, since they had a Downton Abby costume exhibit intertwined in all the rooms. Having it so cold in April didn't help. Everyone wanted to be indoors.

I'm going to play around with the portal design some more before gluing anything down. I'm also going to back them up with some heavier wood stock to provide a firm surface to fasten the terrain support to the portals. I want them to be "in-grown" into the mountain, not just pushed up to it. Today's an exercise day so work will start later. I already lost 1 pound of the 4 that I gained. Only 3 more to go until I'm back where I started last Thursday. It's a real pain in the butt.

congratulations on your anniversary, and thank you for your posts

detailed beyond expectations and beautiful to see

j

Thank you for all compliments.

I did modify the design a bit, moving the horizontal items to the top and duplicating part of the portal opening curve in the filler piece behind. I got to glue everything together today and started preparing to put the backing pieces in place. Not having a table saw, it's a bit difficult to rip skinny wood parts. This was the longest pieces that my chop saw could make. I supposed I could use the saber saw which only would give me one true edge on the milled side of the board. I can't use my Skil saw to rip narrow boards into narrower boards. Or...at least I don't know how to do it safely.

I used Aleen's for all this work and it sets fast enough that I could do all four portals with the total number of clamps I had to bring to the operation. While one aspect was curing I glued the next portal. By the time I got to Portal #3, the glue had set enough on #1 so I could than glue on the next piece in the layup. The last pieces to go on are the square detail pieces. Here I either clamped on just put weights on top.

Here are all four portals ready for the backing and filler pieces.

Here's kind of like how the backing pieces will go. This will give some nice surface area to fasten the mountain underlayment, and a way to fasten the portals to the layout from underneath. Accidentally, the portal's width is just about the exact same width as my OSB sub-roadbed.

As I noted in a previous post, I'm going to do something to add some simulated depth to the openings so it looks more substantial. One way would be using green foam. Another would be to line the opening with heavy paper stock. I see which works best.

Tomorrow I'll have these finished up a primed. I will use the same sand paint as I used for the retaining wall. Once it dries it looks pretty good. Again, the paint's going to cost the most for this project.

With the portals glued, it was time to add all that back bracing and foam to make them easier to incorporate into the terrain and to add some heft to them so they'll simulate concrete better. I was first going to fabricate a two or three part affair to provide the side filler and something to fasten to the layout, but realized I was over-engineering again. Instead I just cut some 45 degree wood blocks. I was wondering why some of the portals weren't perfectly square and decided to check my chop saw. Sure enough, it was slightly out of square. I loosened the big socket screws holding the arm and got enough play to adjust it. This was after trying to do the same thing with the fence, but couldn't get enough adjustment.

To clamp these diagonal blocks presented small challenge. Conventional clamping on a bias simply doesn't work. I came up with a scheme to use a screw driven at 90 degrees which provided a good purchase for the mini-clamps. It worked! I used Aleen's Tacky Glue again since its drying time is a little faster than Titebond, and I really don't need ultimate strength here. If a train rams it, I'd rather have the portal give way than wrecking a $1,500 3rd Rail engine.

I bought two more Irwin mini-clamps today to bring my quantity up to an even 10. I had purchased two off-brand mini-clamps at Harbor Freight that are completely worthless. When you apply too much pressure they just start slipping. Unfortunately, this happens before they're really tight enough to do anything. The Irwin clamps are also Chinese, but I guess like anything else, there's good Chinese and crap Chinese. I was thinking while I was in Lowe's today that other than a very few brands of hand tools (Channel Lock, Snap On, Weller, Starrett, etc.), all the rest are made overseas. What would happen if we would get into a conflict with China (heaven forbid), we would simply lose our ability to provide hand tools to industry that would be tasked with making the materials to fight this battle. The reason we won WWII (besides the fact that we had major oceans protecting both coasts) was our ability to out produce every other country in the conflict. We probably couldn't do that today. That's my politics for the day...

After all four were on, I then cut some more skinny blocks and mounted them. All of this wood was scraps that had accumulated in the layout's construction. The only thing that's costing anything is the paint. 

I've got lots of clamps, but still needed more, so once the Aleen's set up a bit (15 minutes or so) I was able to de-clamp and use them on the next portal. This process moved along rather quickly. It was time for a test. So I ran the H-8 through the portal in its location on the layout. Lots of clearance all the way around.

After finishing the rest I placed them all in their respective spots for this picture.

This uncovered one problem. The front outside portal extends beyond the layout's perimeter. This is not a serious problem. I will unfasten the fascia and simply add some more meat to extend the existing edge. I really don't want the portal to be so close to the edge anyway. I should probably add at least two inches. I'm going to need more real estate anyway to add signaling that's coming along some day.

I attached the diagonal blocks so the cross grain is on the bottom which will facilitate screwing them to the layout from the bottom if I choose to go that root. I can also glue them to the layout as I did to the portals themselves. 

After all the wood was in place, it was time to add the foam filler pieces. These are completely cosmetic since the portals are only 1/8" thick (6" scale inches) which looks ridiculous for concrete. I'm adding enough foam so when filled and shaped, it will look convincing.

Using my Tippi hot wire cutter and the edges of the Masonite as a guide, I was able to trim the foam to conform to the opening. This was the first one that I did before running out of time.

After a little light sanding, and the shape was correct. I just stuck it on the layout for this shot. I'm going to give it a coat of filler (joint compound?) before painting them. I'm going to prime before using the sand paint since it will improve coverage over the raw Masonite. I should have done this on the retaining wall. Live and learn. I may create a keystone appliqué for the portal faces since this is a PRR railroad derivative. Or not...

The Loctite Foam and Panel adhesive cured and I was able to use the Tippi to trim all the excess foam. In a couple of spots I added a bit more foam using medium CA which did work well in this small application. I then had to sand the irregularities and turned to the same concept as I used in making the boilers. I used the bottom of a paint spray can to trace the radii for the portal opening so I again stuck some adhesive -backed sand paper to the can and used it to sand the same radii neatly. If you haven't yet done so, I'd strongly recommend getting some of this adhesive backed sand paper. It's primarily sold in Hobby Shops that support RC aircraft. It's normally used for balsa sanding sticks, but I use it in my NWSL Precision Sander. I have to trim it to fit perfectly, but it sticks like crazy and is very convenient.

All the portals are sanded.

Next up was a coating of joint compound to blend the foam to the Masonite and remove the rest of the defects. 

While this was drying (will be ready for sanding on Monday) I attacked extending the outer loop platform so the tunnel portal and signal will fit nicely, as well as making it easier to bring the mountain down to earth. I had kept the OSB that was used as a filler piece before the bridges were installed and I was able to slice this up to make sufficient extension to the right end.

The layout is not perfectly symmetrical so I needed to trace the actual outline onto the stock and cut it out with the saber saw. I then touched it up with my Skil belt sander and blended the joint to the original profile. All of this is done wearing sound suppression ear muffs and goggles. I probably should have had a dust mask on also, but didn't.

It's supported underneath using strategically placed wood blocks. I am using SPAX Torx head screws. SPAX is a German brand that's also now available here. They're the finest wood screws I've ever used. They're self-drilling, but the part that is in the gripping end is a smaller diameter than the threaded end. This allows the pieces to be pulled up tight even without a clearance hole. That being said, I drill clearance holes out of habit. SPAX is available at some Home Depots, but I couldn't find them at Lowe's. Every box of SPAX comes with a specific Torx bit so you never run out of them. I use a flexible extension on my DeWalt to tighten all these underneath screws. In the above picture you can just see my roll around "scooter", which is actually a German plant stand on casters. I bought it when I built railroad #1 while living in Düsseldorf. It's been a huge help and totally saved my knees. I very rarely ever crawl under the layout on my knees. I almost always roll where I want to go.

The second piece was left over from the first cutting and after tracing the long contour I marked the alignment point with piece 1, and then cut it to fit.

And here it is mounted and trimmed. Again, I used the belt sander to smooth the contour. It gets covered with the fascia board as you'll next see so it really didn't have to be that perfect.

I reused the same fascia board. Some of the holes didn't align and I had to add some new ones. I fasten the fascia directly into the sub-roadbed edge for the top of the fascia. For the bottom I add extension blocks to the L-girder joists. I needed to make new blocks to reach out the added inches.

Here's how I ensure that the extensions are in line with the layout's edge. Simply dropping a square straight down lets you line up the extension distance and make sure that the extension is square with the fascia. Pre-drilling the extension is essential here since it lets you drive the screws without the added risk of moving the piece.

The extension on the curve needed to have it's face cut on a bias. I traced the layout edge onto the extension block and clipped it off on the chop saw.

Lastly, I put a portal in place to show just how much room I now have for mountains and terrain.

And here's the completed fascia back in place. I had to add one more block right at the concave portion. There was too much stress on the screw at that point and it pulled the OSB apart. I installed a block below the edge with the grain parallel to the edge. Two screws at this point ensured that the curve stayed put.

This was a quick project. In fact, it almost took as long to write about it as doing it. L-Girder construction makes it easy to do these quick mods. There's always some place to add brackets, extensions, additional joists, etc. The mountain curve area is going to be brought further into the layout's center to accommodate the mountain and the planned coal mine. I'm also going to connect the back spur to the straight inner track that you see in this picture. An O-96 switch and some Ross curves will connect it up. It will also do double duty as another passing siding. You can't have enough of them since they allow complete trains to move on and off the mainline.

It's going to be really cool getting terrain on this area. I've been looking at that bare wood for over 3 years.

Finally back in the shop today (Wednesday). The weather was perfect for outside painting so I sanded off the excess joint compound, took the portals outside and sprayed the Krylon Gray Primer. It dried quickly in the sun and 80 degree temp. When dry I overrated a couple of times with the Rustoleum beige sand paint. Here are all four painted.

Looks good at first glance, but upon further examination there is a big problem. Either the primer or the sand paint (or both) ate green foam. It didn't show up right away but as it was drying it got worse and worse. 

If this is simulating concrete, it's really old distressed concrete. Wherever the joint compound was, the foam is intact. Wherever there was bare foam, it really got ulcerated. I have two choices. I can leave it alone since they're not going to be viewed that critically, but that rubs me the wrong way as you all have probably derived from reading my stuff for over 3 years. The other will be to refill the damage spots and air brush with a matching tan color without the sand. That's what I'll do the next time in the shop which looks like it will on Friday. I suppose I could have made one, made a rubber mold and cast the lot of them. Live and learn.

Nice job.

Good luck, John

Spray paint and foam don't play well together. The propellant eats at the foam. If you prime first with latex, you can use the spray paints. That said, your work is amazing and I enjoy seeing your progress.

Really have enjoyed watching your progress.  A lot of talent.  Looks awesome.  Nice job!

I sometimes do that on purpose in order to get a weathered concrete look. Quite a bit more subtly than yours, though. 

Thanks guys! Yes, I suppose it could give a very good spalled concrete effect, but mine was just too severe. I chose to "repave" the arches with Gysolite plaster. It's very rough since it's designed to be the bottom coat on old fashioned plaster lath walls. I smeared on a heavy coat which I'll sand somewhat tomorrow and add a top coat of joint compound and then it will be back to the paint shop. 

It'll take a full day to cure, so I started to design the tunnel shape by cutting some cardboard shapes to give me an idea of a) how it will work with the portals, b) how big it's going to be, and c) how much material (Masonite, plaster, cardboard strips, etc.) will be required to build this thing. Already I can see that it's bigger and more massive than my original RR Track imaginations were. I taped all these things together and stuck them in approximate positions. It's easier to modify cardboard (and cheaper) than Masonite. 

I placed a portal... with its wet plaster... in place to ensure that the contour was still high enough to fully enclose it. I'll do the same thing on the other ends tomorrow. This establishes the back, most elevated contour. I still have to create some templates for the depth contours. I'm going to fill in that notch with more L-girder so that corner has more surface and is squared off. This gives me more space for the coal mine. This was the plan done on RR Track over 3 years ago. My cardboard mountain extends further to the left than this version. In this plan you'll also see that the spurs are extended up to the mine. In actuality, I want to connect the spur to the track on the right hand inner loop if I can fit it. There's sufficient straight track in front of the portal to put in an O-80 or O-96 switch. Unfortunately, I no longer am able to use RR Track since I'm now on a Mac and RR Track has no plans to produce a native OS version, nor do I want to go through the hassle of installing a Windows operating system in parallel with OS even though this computer is capable of running both.

This was a short work day so that's all I have to report. I'm really getting excited about putting terrain on that bare right end. It's time to do it.

On Friday, I sanded the Gypsolite, and applied another coat of joint compound and put it aside to dry....for at least two weeks. That's because today I had hand surgery to release a trigger finger on my left ring finger. For the medically erudite, it's called "stenosing tenosynovitis". It was getting so bad that i could no longer play guitar. it didn't stop the model work, although it was annoying and could be painful, especially when gripping the wheel on long road trips. 

This big bandage can come off in 3 days and stitches come out on May 10. Surgery took all of an hour, although I was under propofol and didn't know a thing. No wonder why Michael Jackson liked it so much...that stuff is great!

I feel for you about the guitar playing, I had carpal tunnel surgery on my left hand, and I still have trouble with some chords because my hand doesn't bend properly. 

Don

Well I hope you have a speedy recovery!  

Will you get occupational therapy with that?.  I had quite a bit of it with my second two carpal tunnel surguries.  They didn't have me do any except squeeze the rubber ball when I had the first two carpal tunnel surgeries in 1995.

I know what your talking about. I hope you feel better soon. But don't rush it, it's not worth it.

thanks for the support! Typing one-handed is slllloooowwwwww!

The doc said therapy will only happen if I need it. the last one of these which he did, didn't need it. 

Yes, it is slow typing.  Well that's good if you don't need it.

Exceptional work on that Boiler house both exterior and interior !  Thanks for sharing all the comments, details and photos.   

love the pics.  Keep'em coming.  Nice work!

Mark Boyce posted:

Yes, it is slow typing.  Well that's good if you don't need it.

Hi Mark. I was trying to get your email address from your profile page to ask you a personal question, but there seems to be something wrong with the page, it keeps taking me to http://vitruvianleads.com/. I contacted Rich to see if he'd look into it. I tried several other names and the profile pages come up like they should. Just thought I'd let you know.

DoubleDAZ posted:

Mark Boyce posted:

Yes, it is slow typing.  Well that's good if you don't need it.

Hi Mark. I was trying to get your email address from your profile page to ask you a personal question, but there seems to be something wrong with the page, it keeps taking me to http://vitruvianleads.com/. I contacted Rich to see if he'd look into it. I tried several other names and the profile pages come up like they should. Just thought I'd let you know.

Dave,

Thank you.  I see it does the same thing for me.  I can't even look at my own profile.  What's up with that?  Thank you for contacting Rich.  I don't know how that happened.

Myles we hope you a full and speedy recovery.

Andre.