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Dear All,
I'm an Italian (so please forgive my several mistakes writing this message...) model train enthusiast. On next summer probably I will be for a business trip in USA, so I can achieve one of my dream: purchase a "big boy" steam locomotive (without spend too much money...).
I'm an R&D electronic specialist, so I'm able to create my own electronic circuits, operate on a decoder, digitalize a loco and so on. The point, the focus of this tread is: my 0 scale layout operate with an European DCC standard and I see that the most of US locos (Lionel, MHT...) use completely different systems. So I have some questions for you (please... I know someone are quite easy and a little silly, but for you is a standard and some knowledge are obvious, so nobody talk about it), of course focused on UP Big Boy locos, not generally about all trains available in US.
1) 3-rails vs. 2-rails: if I well understand the 3-rails system use the two external rail to supply the gear. The is an AC voltage and the train speed is defined by the voltage level: higher voltage, faster is the train. On the central rail there is a digitalized signal used to send the commands to the loco (sound, bell, lights....). Am I right?
2) AC engine (or motor? I'm not sure which is the better word): the US locos use AC engines. Are they really AC? Or are they DC engines with a rectifier? In Europe all engines are DC ones: the locos designed to run in AC or DC have an internal rectifier, but the engine in fact is always DC.
3) availability of Big Boy: as I understand, this loco is produced by Lionel and MHT. Is easy to find it in shops? Which versions are available (only the most expansive or even the cheaper ones)? Could be found a second hand one? I even see that there was other manufacturers who produce this loco in the past (even in a 2-rails version, but always AC): could be found something?
 
 
Thanks a lot for your patience!
Riccardo
Original Post

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Hello Riccardo, The US O-Gauge system is a three rail system. The standard is 60 cycle AC. You are correct, this AC is converted to DC by a rectifier built into the engine. In the older Post-War, or after WW2 engines they did use open frame AC motors, but today almost all engines are produced with DC, flywheel equiped motors.

 

Direction is controld by an electronic device called the E-unit. Please don't ask me why it's called an e-unit. It is a hold over term from the early days of electro-mechanical direction control.

 

The two outside rails are used for return, or (-) and the center rail is used for primary input, or (+). This 3rd rail configuration has become a standard because the second return can be used to drive accessory devices. It also provides a better ground return and allows for a one switch turn around, or loop-back with no special circuits.

 

In the new control systems such as Lionel's Legacy or TMCC and MTH DCS electronic signals are used to control the engine. This is true for not only direction control but also many other features.

 

With the Lionel system  control signal goes out on the outside rails and on the MTH system the control signals travel back and forth between the TIU (Track Interface Unit) and the engine on the center rail. For a more detailed discription you should visit the OGR DCS and Legacy/TMCC sites.

 

In O-Scale DC is used on a two rail system.

 

 

AS for purchasing a Big Boy to take home I would talk to a dealer that deals with MTH. They, or MTH have an exstensive presence in the European market and you will be able to receive service if and when needed.

 

Lionel has customers all over the world as well, but you may have to ship back to the States if you need work done on the product.

 

I hope I have been of some help to you and I wish you a great trip to the US.

Last edited by gg1man

Another thing to note, you may already know MTH is making a range of European models. The latest control system, PS3, includes DCC.

Also, a good option for you, when buying American locos, consider second hand locos and older locos with no remote control feature, such as MTH PS1 locos or older brass models, that allow you to install DCC decoders, this will save you a lot of money.

I suggest however, when you are considering a purchase, come here and ask the forum opinion, there are many pitfalls and you can make a mistake, as there are so many things you will need to learn about.

Originally Posted by Turambar:
You tell me that both external rails are used for return. Mario tell that the "second return" could be used to drive accessories, so this mean that the two external rails aren't connected together, I mean short circuited. Of course you can short-circuit this two rails (to have a better grounding, or to create a self-loop, for example), but is not mandatory.

That is correct.  However, some 3-rail track has the external rails connected.

This mean that inside the locomotive the wheels are not short circuited together (I mean the two wheels on the same axle), but are insulated.

This is only true of MTH engines with the "Proto 3-2" feature and 2-rail engines.  On early MTH 3-rail engines and Lionel engines the wheels are short circuited from side to side.

To convert a 3-rails loco into a 2-rail I must simply unconnect the internal cable (+) and connect to a wheel contact (probably right side) and take the return (-) from the other wheel only.

That will only work on MTH engines with the "Proto 3-2" feature.  However, the wheel flanges are larger on 3-rail engines than on 2-rail engines.  They do conform to NMRA RP25 or NEM 310 standards.  Your easiest conversion to DCC electrically would be an MTH or brass engine made for 2-rail.  These engines require very large curves.  At least 2 meter radius curves.  Do you have curves this large?  If not, you will want an MTH 3-rail engine with the "Proto 3-2" feature.  These engines turn tighter.

Do you know how much current, more or less, a Big Boy motor absorb? Of course I will use two different decoders to control each one (if I well understand almost all Big Boys have two motors), but is important avoid to use a too small decoder. I don't like the solutions to connect the two motors in parallel or series, as someone suggest.

You will need a decoder that can handle at least 4 amps continuous.  If you want to run the smoke unit make it 5 amps continuous.

Hi Riccardo, when I said you could use one of the outside rails to control an accessory I was talking about the fact that the outside rails are shorted through the engine on a three rail system.

If you take a section of one of the outside rails and place isolation pins at each end of that section you could use said section as the return of any device that gets it's primary source from the same potential of that of the engines source.

If you have a gate man accessory that gets it's power source from the center rail of the track that the engine is running on and it's return wire is connected to the above mentioned isolated rail then when the engine or any three rail car passes over that section of rail the return will be shorted to that rail through the rolling stock thus providing a return for the Gateman and it will operate as long as there is some device that provides the return path.

 

To convert three rail to two rail you must isolate the only two rails you have for power or there will be a dead short when you apply power and that will not be a good thing.

That is why most HO products use non conductor wheels on one side of each truck assembly.

 

With the MTH product that Dave is speeking of above the engines are designed in a way that makes this conversion as simple as modifying the truck assemblies. I believe that the new MTH engines all come with these kits.

With 2 rail systems you can only get the + from one rail and the - from the other.

Even with two rail AC operation, such as the American flyer S guage line the rails must be isolated. When one side is pluss the other must be negative and never shall the two meet other then through the motor.

Last edited by gg1man
OK, so I better understand how the 3-rails system is working. And I understand what you mean about the second return on external rail. Make sense and sound useful.
On old 3-rails locomotives so the external wheels and the axle are connected together, so if I unmount one of this rolling item and put over a 2-rails layout I make a short circuit. On a Big Boy there are 24 wheels pairs (plus the tender...), so I cannot think to replace all ones with insulated wheels (and I don't want to do, I'd like to keep all the original mechanical parts). I have to look for a 2-rails loco or for a newer PS2/3.
 
About the size of the layout, yes, I have a very large external path. The smaller circle is 91cm (about 36") in the European layout, so are usually larger than in 3-rails.
So the reason why a 3-rails unit can run on a O-31 track is because has larger flanges. This allow to the loco to be more firm in narrow curves. But, what happen if a loco designed for O-72 curves run at very low speed in a O-31 curve? Can it turn or the trolleys are blocked for a O-72 curves?
 
Coming back to the motors: you tell me that the motors need abut 4A CC (5A CC with smoke) to run. But I suppose this is the total current needed for the whole loco (2 motors + all functions on a Big Boy). Or is it for one motor only? In the second case a Big Boy need not less than 8A to run and it seem to much.
Usually in DCC the decoders are designed for 1/1.5A CC  on the motor output plus 0.3A on each function outputs (from 3 to 8 outputs usually). I will use two decoders, one for each motor (and if the smoke need a so high current probably a third one too for it...). So yes, the total current on the loco will be 4/5A, but I don't need special decoders for high current. In European O-scale locos the motor usually absorb from 1 to 1.2A if you block the wheels (so as maximum load) and 0.5/0.8 in a normal run. I suppose the US motors aren't so different.
 
I will try to check on the manufacturer's websites to create a list of Big Boy available to start to create a list of unit who could meet my requirements (cost, 2-rails conversion and so on).
 
Thanks again!
 
Originally Posted by Turambar:
So the reason why a 3-rails unit can run on a O-31 track is because has larger flanges. This allow to the loco to be more firm in narrow curves. But, what happen if a loco designed for O-72 curves run at very low speed in a O-31 curve? Can it turn or the trolleys are blocked for a O-72 curves?
Coming back to the motors: you tell me that the motors need abut 4A CC (5A CC with smoke) to run. But I suppose this is the total current needed for the whole loco (2 motors + all functions on a Big Boy). Or is it for one motor only? In the second case a Big Boy need not less than 8A to run and it seem to much.



An 0-72 engine will most certainly derail if it tries to enter an 0-31 curve. Some 0-72 engines are barely comfortable with 0-72, other models (not the same locomotive) might be able to get through as small as 0-54. The reason is not the size of the flanges (that's for running on round-headed sheet-metal rails) but the lack of them on the center axles--typically only the first and last driver wheels have them.

 

Since you're looking for a Big Boy, it's important to understand that in the US 3-rail market, there are scale-proportioned models, and then there are under-size models intended for people whose layouts are too small for the larger locomotives. Under MTH, these are known as RailKing (or RailKing Imperial with extra detail), and under Lionel, they're known as Lionmaster.

 

The Big Boys marketed under these two product lines will travel through a 0-31 curve, but only because they are about 2/3 the size of a scale-proportioned model, and both sets of drivers pivot under the boiler. On the scale models and the real thing, only the front set pivots (from the end opposite the cylinders), and the rear set is fixed. Lionmaster and Railking articulated steamers have two motors, and scale versions have one large motor.

 

---PCJ

Riccardo,

Somewhere above a statement was made that "the MTH Big Boys run better than the
brass", which is not necessarily true, of course.

Not to criticize MTH; I love their products. But, on eBay, there are available, from time to
time, UP Big Boys (and other large brass steamers) from Williams, marketed 15 - 20
years ago. They were made in both 2- and 3-rail versions, I believe. They are brass,
made in Korea, the detailing is basic but correct, the quality is good and they run
very, very well. They are "conventional" (analogue) locos, running on AC (3-rail) or
DC (2-rail). Easily updated to a "command" system of your choice. They are often
obtainable for $500 or so; I have seen them go for less, in excellent shape. The gear
ratios are good. The same maker also built brass steamers for Weaver (a GN 2-8-8-2,
for example), and these have the same good characteristics as the Williams units. The
3-rail locos will negotiate 72" diameter (36" radius) curves. 

In other words, the loco you seek is available for not a ridiculous amount of money,
even after an upgrade.
Thanks again because you are answering to my question. As I told, for some of you all this things are obvious... or you can simply go into a shop and see the product. But I'm a little too far to do the same. And, unfortunately, in Italy the O scale has been abandoned several years ago (in Europe is present in UK, Germany, Belgium, France and some few more countries).
Using your informations I create a loco table, very helpful to have a fast outlook especially if I find an offer on web shop or a second hand loco.
 
<colgroup><col width="92" /><col width="168" /><col width="94" /><col width="81" /><col width="88" /><col span="2" width="77" /><col span="2" width="106" /><col width="78" /></colgroup>
ManufacturerLinePart numberOfficial costSound# of motorsRailsMinimum curveLengthAvailability
LionelLEGACY LionMaster6-11149$859.99RailSound23O-3129"Since 2008
LionelLEGACY LionMaster6-11208$899.99RailSound23O-3129"Since 2010
LionelLEGACY LionMaster Scale6-11126$1'699.99RailSound 5.013O-7232" 
LionelLEGACY LionMaster Scale6-11104$1'699.99RailSound 5.013O-7232"Since 2006
LionelLEGACY LionMaster Scale6-11123$1'699.99RailSound 5.013O-7232"Since 2006
LionelLEGACY LionMaster Scale6-11122$1'699.99RailSound 5.013O-7232"Since 2006
LionelLEGACY LionMaster6-38075$799.99RailSound23O-3129"Since 2004
MTHPremier20-3021-1$1'395.00PS13O-72 Since 1997
MTHPremier20-3021-2$1'395.00PS12O-72 Since 1997
MTHPremier20-3127-1$1'399.95PS 213O-7235"Since 2004
MTHPremier20-3129-1 $1'999.95PS 213O-7235"Since 2004
MTHPremier20-3218-2$1'499.95PS 213O-5435"Since 2006
MTHPremier20-3219-2 $1'499.95PS 213O-5435"Since 2006
MTHPremier20-3414-1$1'399.95PS 213O-5435"Since 2010
MTHRailKing30-1129-0 $599.95PS 3O-31 Since 1998
MTHRailKing30-1129-1$699.95PS 3O-31 Since 1998
MTHRailKing30-1287-1$699.95PS 223O-3128"Since 2003
MTHRailKing30-1512-1$699.95PS 223O-3129"Since 2008
MTHRailKing30-1582-1$699.95PS 3 + DCC23O-3129"Dec-12
K-LineTitansK3790-4006S$472.45  3O-31  
K-LineTitansK3790-4009W$399.95  3O-31 Since 2002
K-LineTitansK3790-4012W $359.95   O-31  
K-LineTitansK3790-4015S$524.95   O-31  
 
I don't find info about the Williams one.... Do you know a webpage where find a list of the models? And do you know other brands?
What is more difficult for me is understand which locos are still in production. The K-Line has closed, I know. But probably isn't so important at this point.
 
Is more important for me understand something about the wheels: I mean, which locos have the wheels insulated from left to right where I can easily do the conversion to DCC. I see that only one of this was designed for 2-rails; I suppose the new Railking announced for the end of 2012 should has the wheel insulated for a easy conversion to the European market. But... the other ones?
Of course I mean as "insulated" that aren't electrically connected together trough the axle. If are internally connected together through a plate or contact or circuit isn't a problem since I can insulate it.
 
 
Frankly, probably I can wait some months more and try to purchase the new MTH RailKing. For conversion from 3-rails to DCC I calculate to spend around €100 (2 gold-line decoders + one standard one and some more items): probably I can find a Big Boy suitable for me at 450/500$. So spend $450+€100 for a second hand unit, or spend $700 for a brand new one just ready... isn't so bad.
I only need my company call me in San Josè even next year to purchase it directly!
 
Bye
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